Question about 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

It do not run right thear no house powermy engine is brogeing out

It like it not getting gas I change the fule pump I change the spark plug spark plug wires cap

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  • Expert
  • 157 Answers

If its not getting gas...the evidence should be present on the old plugs.
if they were lean, run fuel pressure and volume measurements. in the event you still have the filter you were using before the pump work, change it. test according to the TSB that pertains to your model.
verify your build date and vin # before applying the info to this vehicle.
look at test step NS-1(mitchell manual,public library) and run those tests till you have a running ,driving jeep before condemming anything else. if you dont know what any of this means, tow it to jeep

Posted on Mar 29, 2014

  • 13 more comments 
  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 30, 2014

    no HORSE power , engine is bogging out. if you did the 60k tuneup. did you? then the filter would be new. as would spark plugs. the fiter is clamped near the tank, next post is the FSM pages. on this car the fuel pressure regulator is in the gas tank (self reg) pressure goes higher and engine flooding and misfire happen, spark plug tips turn black. (hint , look) page 14-5 , the pressure spec, is 49psi plus/minus 2. If bogging full time, and on hills, and tunedup, then it might be low fuel pressure, or the air cleaner is packed in bugs.. again, a tune part. if all this makes no sense, then take it to the man, the Man with the bright red texaco start (now called M.r good wrench ,etc) any ASE fully certified technician.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 30, 2014

    http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-b...

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 30, 2014

    still no engine stated. so..... hard to fix cars blind or help. the TSB alluded to above is NO: 14-06-97 that changes the 49PSI to plus/minus 5, not 2. and tells you bad fuel tanks , cause problems... a duh factor of 10 there.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 30, 2014

    i have a special tool to disect that fuel filter to see whats inside,during 60k service points. if i see rust , i get the tank serviced.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 30, 2014

    so min, pump pressure is 44 PSI. 49-5 , also the injectors have very tiny screens and will clog with any tank contamination, and bog. and misfire.

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    yes i agree, and that pump has its valves inside the vertical "can"

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    the sensors , after 18 years must be updated. i find that CROWN automotive parts are the least likely to have repeat failures.Add a Comment

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    theres a low cost valve available from BMW that is installed on a u tube video for those with issues staying primed

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    shorted DG/OR wire takes power away from the injectors. It runs to every sensor in the schematic. unplug them all and check ohms to gnd. then plug them in one by one watching the ohmmeter. replace those sensors first. then order the rest of them. keep your harness repaired esp. near the exhaust and the back of the engine.

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    a baggy timing chain increases dwell variation, a new one has zero degrees measurable slack. and the chain by itself is only 30 bucks. but the pcm needs special scan tool to re learn the distributor position. thats why loss of battery to KAM power is crucial

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    the tsb about fuel corrects the book. many of the bulletins listed under "dealer info" correct the book. there is changes every year or less on these vehicles.

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    its the mitchell database i am referring to. the haynes manuals cover such a range you go blind trying to read the book. the fuel pump on this one is different than the one before or the one after, there is no fuel pressure regulator on this model. it was taken off when these cars were updated by ford for dodge before release for sale. we removed and replaced the timing chains, the pcm's, and the entire fuel rail!!!

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    dodge had too many to get running and no time so they blamed the distributor and trucked them all to ford dealers. you may notice it has a motorcraft distributor in an AMC engine with mopar updated pieces bolted on. we found excessive slack in the amc chain and that(using a different update part) gave base reference to the rotor.

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    we then , having pcm's in bootstrap, replaced the pcm's and had them start with no memory of the previous position

  • dan lincoln Mar 31, 2014

    now you will need the "dealer info" bulletins because there are so many places the book lies. they did not rewrite or update, only added bulletins. the schematic you use must not be police package. tape the 3 printed pages together, tack it up on the wall. trace the DG/OR wire every where you see it with a colored sharpie. if you notice its everywhere. any problem with connections,shorts, cooked harness, or shorted sensors must be found by this method with an ohmmeter. they take away injector power. i recommend listing all the sensors in the schematic, evaluating the ones on your rig, and replacing them all to get the updates. even the diameter of the connector pins has been changed on the newer parts for intermittant no starts due to CKP (crank)sensor learn

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  • Jeep Master
  • 20,706 Answers

96 ZJ. (no engine option stated, so generic answers)
post symptoms..... ???
ok, i see some.....
ENGINE BOGS!
no engine power.!
questions, no power hot engine, cold engine or both?
question 2, is the bogging, all the time. ? or intermittent or?


OK, Engine 101 .
there are 3 causes (basics) to make and engine bog.
bad engine (compression tests)
bad spark (spark tests)_
bad fueling. just 3. but finding it takes simple test. guessing is very expensive....
if engine compression is good, and you have near 10inches of vacuum, cranking (if not the CAT can be melted)
next is bad SPARK
is spark good (this is a test) to all cylinders, not just 1. ?
use a spare new test spark plug to test spark for best results.
spark good. that means (if you get this far) its bad fueling
Is it flooding or dry ?
the tips of the spark plugs , must not be all of them wet with fuel
soaking (its it will with bad spark but is not here) if its flooding
then crank engine over at wide open throttle and it will start.
WOT cranking clears flooding on all engines. (cuts fueling)
if dry, then try test fuel.
if test fuel fails, you skipped a test above or the order skipped.

see scotty do his magic.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

I always check fuel rail pressure first. before attacking my fueling issues. that is because the ECU cant correct for gross low pressure.
28psi is min. (generic, inj. spec. not Jeep)
the gauge to do that is $20
in fact the 3 guages, needed are $20 each.
fuel, spark , compression.
the tools are about 1hr. shop labor ,cost.

Posted on Mar 28, 2014

  • 2 more comments 
  • kozmikkurt Mar 29, 2014

    There's a good chance that it may be your Crankshaft Position Sensor. Mine died awhile back, and caused similar symptoms. It's located on top of the transmission housing just behind the engine, and is only mildly difficult to remove and replace. There are lots of videos, etc. online showing how to do it.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 29, 2014

    the CEL will glow with bad CMK, and will misfire not bog and will store DTC for DKP and drop the ASD relay, in 2 seconds. my guess, is it needs a tune up.... and might be low fuel pressure, did you finish that tune up with a new fuel filter. if it clogs, pressure drops and power drops. and will do so , till it dont run any more. at about 28psi.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 29, 2014

    i ment finsh the 60k tune up, need the list , its in the opr. guide.

  • _-__-___-_
    _-__-___-_ Mar 29, 2014

    no editor, meant, and finish. sorry, im used to 1960 typewriters with CR at end of line.

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