- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to scan the computer for trouble codes. If the light was on, there must be codes set. On a '95 Buick, it would be OBD-1, On Board Diagnostics-first generation ('96 and later is all OBD-2). The diagnostic connectors are different for OBD1 and OBD2, but in '94 and '95, GM was on some models using a "hybrid" diagnostic link connector. You will just have to find the right diagnostic connector to get your codes. The guys at autozone or a national parts store who do engine scans for free may help you figure it out. If it is a straight forward OBD 1 connector, a cheap code reader could scan for trouble codes. For the OBD1, you can also use a jumper wire between terminals A & B of the diagnostic link connector. Turn key to on, and two digit codes will begin to flash on the check engine light. Code 12, for instance, would be a flash, pause, two short flashes, and longer pause before the next code appears. Code 12 by the way, just means that the computer is in diagnostic mode-after that any set codes will appear or be flashed. Code 55 may also be flashed-this code means the end of codes that are set.
There are quite a few things that can cause this light to turn on and yes you are right it has something to do with the hybrid system, unfortunately this going to require that a suitable diagnostic scantool be connected that can communicate with all the onboard computers, this will retrieve any diagnostic codes that are stored, a technician can then start to diagnose the system based on the trouble code information.
D4 light is an error from the TCU (transmission control unit), so you
got something going on with your transmission. If you want to pull the
error code, remove the passengers side kick panel and look for a pair of
wires with a blue connector at the end. Stick a paper clip or some
other piece of wire into each hole of the connector to short the wires.
Put your key in the ignition and turn 2 clicks. The D4 light will
flash the code...short flashes=1 and long flashes=10. Add the number of
short and long flashes to get your code. Errors are below:
0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty. 1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted. 4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer. 5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted. 6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open. 7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted. 8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted. 9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted. 10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted. 11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted. 12-(No code 12 used) 13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted. 14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted. 15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.
I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid and have had hell with it. I have also learnt much about it too.
One thing bad about the HCH2, is that the 12V battery controls the electronics, and the Hybrid battery charges the 12V battery. However the 12V battery is not charged all the time, and cannot be charged when the IMA is usually being used, and in different scenarios. (Buy a Electronic volt meter which plugs into the 12V adapter $14 Walmart))
It is possible that the 12V battery is being drained while driving and caused a voltage drop which can cause your problem. In your case, I would change the 12V battery anyway as they do not last long on Hybrids. (You may have to get Honda to trip the IMA warning lights.) In my case, changing the 12v battery helped the hybrid battery as it was the electronics reporting the charge level wrong.
Depending where you live, you will have a minimum 80,000 mile warranty on the hybrid battery.
The hybrid battery is charged by the motor generator that is attached to the engine, and also charges during braking. Very sophistocated in how the hybrid battery gets charged.
That being said, you do NOT want to pull the battery out & attempt to charge it. There is no charger available anywhere to charge a hybrid battery. Toyota does not offer one, either. Hooking up a standard battery charger could cause disasterous results (it could explode). And, the possibility of getting shocked with over 300 volts DC is very good. When we have to handle hybrid batteries, we have to wear big, heavy rubber gloves so we do not get injured from the many contact points under the battery shell. This is not something you really want to fool with. The stakes are just too high. Sorry I was not giving you the info you are wanting, but, be safe & leave the battery alone.