Question about 1999 Ford Ranger SuperCab
It would be my best guess that you have a rubber break line collapsing on the inside that is not allowing the brake fluid to return to the break resevior. I have run into this on a number of occasions. It is usually on of the front caliper lines. I hope this helps you. Good Luck.
Posted on Dec 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You should be able to look around each tire and see where it is coming from, let me know if any of them have brake fluid on them, if so it is a brake cylinder leaking, if the leak is somewhere else than I may can help you with that, oh and when you do find the problem I can probably save you some money on the repairs.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
you put brake fluid in master cylender on driver side firewall . should not need brake fluid unless you got a leak or pads are worn down .
Posted on May 06, 2009
SOURCE: parking brake release
There should be a manual release. Reach up along the parking brake pedal. Ford has a manual lever that you pull toward yourself to release the parking brake. Hope this helps our with your problem. Best of luck.
Posted on May 30, 2009
The front brake tube rotting off would cause you to have no pressure and letting the pedal hit the floor. The smoke from your rear tire is an indication that the rear brakes are not working properly, only one wheel is braking and it is overheating.
You can replace the front line yourself, but it has to have the air bled out after the new line is put on. Chances are pretty good that you need a whole lot more than just one line though. You'll be smart to replace both front lines.There is a good chance that the bleeder screws on the front calipers will break when you try to bleed them so be careful.
You would be wise to take it to a shop and have it checked over before you start to find out exactly what all you need to replace before you start.
This truck is DANGEROUS to be driving and should be fixed right away. If you are involved in an accident, your brakes will automaticly put you at fault and you could have some hefty bills because of that,so be careful. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
You have air in the system, no matter that you bench bled the Master cylinder, air got in the system that is the only cause of this symptom other than a defective new part. Follow the guide lines below to bleed brakes.
To properly bleed the brakes, start with a couple of 8-ounce cans of fresh brake fluid. An unopened can has a long shelf life. An opened can should be discarded within a few weeks. Get the vehicle up in the air and remove all four wheels, you might be able to do this with the wheels on if you can swing a wrench on the bleeder valves. PLease read through the instructions completely before you start work, do not let the Master cylinder run dry of fluid.
Have a helper pump up the brake pedal, then open the right rear brake bleeder and bleed it until you don't hear anymore air bubbles coming out and the fluid stream is steady, next move to the left rear wheel and repeat, then to the right front and bleed that wheel cylinder, then repeat at the left front wheel cylinder. A tip hear, soak the bleeders with WD40 before you try to crack them open, DO NOT STRIP/ROUND OFF THE CYLINDER BLEEDERS, Use a box end wrench to get a good bite on the bleeders. When all the air is out of the system the fluid will be steady and not make a spurting noise, do not run the master out of fluid!
Posted on Jan 23, 2011
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