Question about 2000 Honda Civic
Codes show misfires.engine runs very ruff.when you throttle hard it picks up all cycls &runs good.replaced distrib &out to plugs.very little improvement
Do a Cylinder Leak Down Test --to see if the valve are shot & leaking
You can also do an electronic cylinder contribution test
Then if the all seal, check the timing belt
After that check for vacuum leaks with evap smoke machine
Posted on Mar 28, 2014
Check engine compression just for a base line. It could be ignition related, just need to check everything else you haven't done. Pull each cylinder's wire off it's spark plug, one at a time, while it's idling. Look for the misfire, idle won't change with the misfiring one, but will drastically lower when you pull off a good firing cylinder's wire. If it is running ruff, it is not contributing power in one or more cylinders- that is how the computer senses a misfire. See if you can isolate the misfire to a particular cylinder, or a side if a v-6 engine, and should help you figure it out. From there-lol. good luck.
Posted on Mar 28, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
The codes are cylinder misfires. Take out pug number one. Really look at it. Is it glazed as if if it has been running really hot? If so the other plugs will likely all look the same. What I think is happening here is that the combustion temperatures are high and this is over heating the plugs causing misfire events. Systemic very high combustion temperatures are caused by a blocked EGR Exhaust gas recirculation valve passage way. The EGR passage way assembly is located in the valley between the injector assembly and the intake manifold. You need to remove the three 10mm bolts that hold the injector rail in place and ease the injectors out. Rotate the rail over to the right (as you face the engine) and hold out of the way with a piece of wire. Remove the 4 or 5 bolts along the length of the EGR assembly and lift it out. Use a blunt screwdriver to scrape all carbon deposits clean and any ports on the exhaust manifold need to be reopened. Use a vacuum cleaner to **** out all the debris and maybe use some carburettor spray cleaner on a cloth to get it like new. Use a touch of silicon grease on the contacting surfaces when reinstalling the 'clean' EGR assembly to prevent air leaks, likewise on the 'o' rings on the injectors. Make all re-connections air tight, ensure all bolts are tightened and all wires fitted back into the sensors. This should sort it
Posted on May 10, 2010
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plugs or wires Faulty coil (pack)Faulty oxygen sensor(s)Faulty fuel injector(s)Burned exhaust valveFaulty catalytic converter(s)Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passagesFaulty camshaft position sensorDefective computer
Possible Solutions: If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad.
If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors. Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 08, 2012
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