Question about 2005 Dodge Durango

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Loose attachment of upper left control arm to body. bolt holes appear to be rounded out. arm moves when turning. is it the shims?

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I am not sure if I understand what your saying but durangos have problems with upper control arms and they have bushing kits or control arm replacements. and these both fix the upper control arm from moving and making the creeking noise.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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How to replace left control arm on 99 mercury cougar


Here's what I found on Yahoo answers:
For the driver's side: yes, you will have to raise the motor.
On all models, remove the front motor mount, Mark the position of the right engine mount, remove 3 right engine to mount bolts. remove one right engine mount to body nut. On all models hold the strut shaft with an 8 mm allen wrench, loosen top retaining nut 5 turns. Raise vehicle, remove ball joint to steering knuckle pinch bolt. seperate control arm ball joints from steering knuckle. Do NOT damage ball joint seal. Remove pinch bolt attaching steering knuckle to strut. Slide steering knuckle up on strut, Move transaxle to gain access to control arm nuts and bolts. remove 2 nuts and bolts and attaching control arm to subframe. Lifting up control arm remove.
Now this to mark the motor mount because you are supposed to use a powertrain alignment guage when putting back together. if not you can bind the motor in the unibody and make for a shaky ride.
that drivers side lower control arm calls for 4.3 hours where as the passenger side calls for 1.3 hours. So you can see what your in for.
BTW these instructions are taken straight from the Ford repair manual.

Source(s):

http://mysite.verizon.net/t2bedlam/fr.jp...

Jan 02, 2013 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

My Front left tire is tilted inward and underneath the truck i found one of the support bars that run's across is broken off on the left side. I looked around the wheel and found that no metal was bent so...


General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Jun 27, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Remove and replace Front Sway bar


Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
  4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
  5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
  6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
  7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
  8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
  9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
  10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
  11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.
Installation
  1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
  2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
  3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
  4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
  5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
  6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
  7. Remove the jack stand.
  8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
  9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
  12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
    • Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Nov 13, 2010 | 2002 Buick Century

1 Answer

Where are the bolts to remove the starter on a 1993 quad 4 grand am?


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except 2.3L and 2.4L Engines

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the electrical wiring from
    the starter, if accessible.
  3. If necessary for access, unfasten the three dust cover bolts, then pull the
    dust cover back to get to the front starter bolt. Remove the front starter bolt.

  4. Remove the rear support bracket.
  5. Pull the rear dust cover back (if applicable) to gain access to the rear
    starter bolt and remove the rear bolt.
  6. Note the number and location of any shims.
  7. Push the dust cover back into place (if removed), then lower the starter
    (disconnect any wiring if previously inaccessible) from the vehicle.
    To install:

  8. Position the starter in the vehicle, connect the wiring, then install the
    rear starter bolt.
  9. Install the front starter bolt, then tighten both bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43
    Nm)
  10. If removed, install the dust cover and the rear support bracket.
  11. Connect the electrical wiring to the starter, if not already attached.
  12. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.




    Fig. 1: Once the vehicle is raised and safely supported, you
    will be able to see the starter motor
    86883015.jpg





    Fig. 2: After disconnecting the wiring, remove the starter
    mounting bolts
    86883016.jpg





    Fig. 3: When removing the starter, be sure to note the number
    and location of any shims
    86883017.jpg





    Fig. 4: View of the starter mounting - 3.1L and 3.3L engines
    91062g09.gif

2.3L Engine
1988-89 (VIN D)

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air cleaner to throttle body duct.
  3. Label and detach the TPS, IAC and MAP sensor connectors.
  4. Remove vacuum harness assembly and the MAP sensor vacuum hose from intake
    manifold, then position aside.
  5. Unfasten the cooling fan shroud attaching bolts, then remove the shroud
    (including the MAP sensor).
  6. Remove the coolant fan-to-upper radiator support bolt, then unfasten the
    remaining upper radiator support bolt and the upper radiator support.
  7. Detach the connector from the cooling fan.
    NOTE: Because of the low clearance, be very careful not to
    damage the TPS lock tang with the fan bracket.


  8. Lift the fan assembly out of the two lower insulators. Rotate the bracket so
    the two lower bracket legs point upward. Move the fan assembly toward the left
    (drivers) side until the fan blade overlaps the radiator tank-to-core seam about
    1 inch (25mm). Lift the fan assembly from the engine compartment.
  9. Remove the harness retaining clip from the engine mount bracket stud.
    Unfasten the starter mounting bolts.
  10. Tilt the rear of starter towards the radiator, pull the starter out, then
    rotate solenoid towards the radiator to gain access to the electrical
    connections.
    NOTE: Be careful not to damage the crank sensor mounted
    directly to the rear of the starter. If it gets damaged, it must be replaced.


  11. Detach the electrical connectors from the solenoid.
  12. Move the starter toward the driver's side of the vehicle, then lift it from
    the vehicle.
    To install:

  13. Insert the starter between the throttle body and the air cleaner housing,
    then move it toward the right (passenger) side.
  14. Attach the solenoid electrical connectors. Make sure to properly position
    the plastic guard over the stud and nut for the battery cable.
  15. Rotate the starter into the proper position, install any shims that were
    removed and secure using the mounting bolt. Tighten the bolts to 74 ft. lbs.
    (100 Nm).
  16. With the fan's bracket two lower legs facing upward, place the fan assembly
    between the throttle body and the radiator while overlapping the radiator
    tank-to-core seam with the fan blade by about 1 inch (25mm). Be careful not to
    damage the lock tang on the TPS.
  17. Rotate the fan bracket, then place the two lower legs into the insulators.
  18. Attach the electrical connector to the cooling fan.
  19. Install the upper radiator support and the coolant fan should, then install
    the fan-to-upper radiator support mounting bolt.
  20. Connect the MAP vacuum hose and the vacuum harness assembly to the intake
    manifold.
  21. Attach the TPS, IAC and MAP sensor connectors.
  22. Install the air cleaner to throttle body duct.
  23. Connect the negative battery cable, then check for proper starter operation.

1990-95 (VIN D), 1989-94 (VIN A), 1992-94 (VIN 3)

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If necessary for access, remove the air induction tube.
  3. Detach the coolant fan electrical connector, then remove the fan assembly.
  4. Remove the oil filter, if necessary for access to the starter.
  5. For vehicles through 1990, remove the intake manifold brace.
  6. Remove the mounting bolts; some engines may have 3 starter mounting bolts.
    Pull the starter out of the hole and move toward the front or passenger side of
    the vehicle.
  7. Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid.




    Fig. 5: Starter mounting for 2.3L engine - 1990-95 models
    91062g10.gif

  8. Remove the starter by lifting it between the intake manifold and the
    radiator.
    To install:

  9. Lower the starter between the intake manifold and the radiator, then connect
    the wiring to the solenoid.
  10. Rotate the starter into installation position and install the mounting
    bolts. For vehicles through 1994, tighten to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm). For 1995
    vehicles, tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  11. If equipped, install the intake manifold brace and oil filter, if removed.
  12. Install the cooling fan assembly, then attach the electrical connector.
  13. If removed, install the air induction tube.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper
    operation.

2.4L Engine

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the air inlet duct attached to the throttle body.
  3. Remove the top starter bolt.
  4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  5. Remove the lower starter bolt.
  6. Position the engine wiring harness aside.
  7. Position the starter for access to solenoid wiring.
  8. Remove the wiring attached to the starter.
  9. Carefully lower the starter.
    To install:

  10. Attach the wiring to the starter and position the assembly into place.
  11. Install the lower starter bolt.
  12. Reposition the wiring.
  13. Lower the vehicle and install the upper starter bolt. Tighten the bolts to
    66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  14. Attach the air inlet duct to the throttle body.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.


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Oct 31, 2010 | 1993 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Upper and lower control arms need to replace how do i go about it


Upper Control Arm and Bushings–C-Series REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands. Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series 84908029.gif

  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
  5. Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
  6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
  7. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
  9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
  10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place. To install: Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  11. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
  12. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
  13. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
    1. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
    2. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    3. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
    4. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
    5. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    6. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
    7. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
    8. If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
    9. If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.
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Aug 31, 2010 | 1993 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

08 Sebring Convertible trunk wont latch it acts like the bar the latch is attached to has not returned to the home position?


I had the same problem on my 08 convertible. Every time I opened the trunk I was having to "bend" the upper catch to match the lower latch. I didn't want to take it to the dealer because they would charge me an arm and a leg.
Here is the quick fix:
Remove the latch plate (attched to the body with a spring) this requires a rachet and 1/2" socket or 1/2" wrench. Place 2 to 3 washers behind the latch plate over the bolts, not between the bolts and the plate. You have to be careful or you will drop the washers. Tighten the bolts and whala! the trunk lid closes and locks.
Better fix.
Get a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" metal the same size as the latch plate and drill two holes to match. Place it between the latch plate and the body to act as a shim. Replace the latch plate and bolts as described above. This method will provide better stability.
Hope this helps.

Aug 24, 2010 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

1 Answer

Windshield wipers will not move. Arms from motor


Hello

The windshield wiper linkage comes as an assembly. The assembly comes with the two rotating splines that the wiper arms attach to. you must remove wiper arms. Remove cowl trim and remove bolts that hold the pivot points to the body. The new linkage that snaps to the wiper motor should come with a new retaining clip. You have to fish the linkage assembly through the access holes in the body by un bolting the wiper motor.

Dec 19, 2009 | 2002 Ford E350

2 Answers

I'm trying to remove the coil spring on a 1981 AMC concord. Is the retaining bolts on the lower spring spindle permanate or do they come out? I collapsed the coil but can't slide the lower spring seat out...


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This is for the lower control arm:
NOTE The inner end of the lower control arm is attached to a removable crossmember. The outer end is attached to the steering knuckle pin and ball joint assembly.

  1. Jack up the car and support it on axle stands under the subframes.
  2. Remove the brake drum or caliper and rotor from the spindle.
  3. Disconnect the steering arm from the knuckle pin.
  4. Remove the lower ball joint stud cotter pin and nut.
  5. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle pin using a ball joint removal tool.
  6. Disconnect the sway bar from the control arm.
  7. Unbolt the strut rod.
  8. Remove the inner pivot bolt and the control arm. To install:
  9. Reverse the removal procedure; do not tighten inner pivot bolt until car weight is on wheels. Tighten ball joint retaining nut to 40 ft. lbs. through 1976, 75 ft. lbs. thereafter, strut rod bolts to 75 ft. lbs., sway bar bolts to 8 ft. lbs., steering arm bolts to 65 ft. lbs. through 1979, 55 ft. lbs. thereafter, and control arm inner pivot bolt to 95 ft. lbs. through 1976, 110 ft. lbs. thereafter.
This is for the coil spring.....see if maybe you missed a step in here:


  1. Remove the shock absorber.
  2. Install a spring compressor through the upper spring seat opening and bolt it to the lower spring seat using the lower shock absorber mounting holes.
  3. Remove the lower spring seat pivot retaining nuts, then tighten the compressor tool to compress the spring about 1" (25.4mm).
  4. Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands at the subframe (allowing the control arms to hang free).
  5. Remove the front wheel and pull the lower spring seat out away from the car, then slowly release the spring tension and remove the coil spring and lower spring seat. To install:
  6. Place the spring compressor through the coil spring and tape the rubber spring cushion to the small diameter end of the spring (upper).
  7. Place the lower spring seat against the spring with the end of the coil against the formed shoulder in the seat. The shoulder and coil end face inwards, toward the engine, when the spring is installed.
  8. Place the spring up against the upper seat, then align the lower spring seat pivot so that the retaining studs will enter the holes in the upper control arm.
  9. Compress the coil spring and install the spring.
  10. Then install the wheel and tire and lower the car to the floor (to place weight on suspension).
  11. Install and tighten lower spring seat spindle retaining nuts and tighten them to 35 ft. lbs.
  12. Remove the spring compressor and install the shock absorber.

Nov 03, 2009 | 1983 AMC American Motors Concord

1 Answer

Replace coil spring


You have to remove them - that "block" is the upper strut-to-body mounting section and serves as the upper seat for the spring as well as the anchor for the top of the strut. You need to take those four 17mm bolts out, as well as the rear upper sway bar bolt, the upper control arm bolt (at the top of the hub), and the bottom bolt on the strut, where it goes through the lower control arm. You'll then have to compress the spring enough to take the bolt out of the "block" (it goes through sideways, and I believe is 19mm on the bolt head as well as the nut). At this point, you can slide the spring/strut out of the block, decompress the spring, pull out the strut, and install a new spring over the strut. Recompress enough to get the top of the strut visible through the anchor bolt hole in the block, rebolt it, decompress the spring, and reinstall the assembly in the car. Usually when you go to reinstall it, the bottom of the strut is not angled quite right once the top four 17mm bolts are back in and the block is secured to the body. I put a large screwdriver through the lower strut bolt hole at the bottom of the strut and use that to turn it, or I grab the weld near the bottom of the strut with large ChanneLock pliers and turn it until it's aligned with the control arm properly. Once it is, put the lower bolt back in, rebolt the control arm and sway bar, and you're good to go.

Note - this job will not affect alignment specs - you don't remove any bolts used in aligning the car, so that's not a concern when doing this repair.

Apr 20, 2009 | 1999 Audi A4

1 Answer

Loud bang when brakes are appllied moving forward.


I had the same problem after a wheel alignment. The control arm bolts were not properly torqued. These bolts will not back out if properly torqued. Your truck must be taken to an alignment shop for realignment.

Dec 01, 2008 | 1991 Toyota Pickup

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