Question about 2008 Chrysler Pacifica
Didn't start. At first all the check lights came on but didn't turn over, no clicking etc. then we checked battery not lose etc. tried key again and this time no check lights and ket turned freely, no resistance, no lights. Tow company was able to put into neutral, door open alert dinging was on, power locks worked, lights came on so we had power. The shop called and said they could not get car out of park so we had to tow to dealership. Is this an ignition switch or bigger problem? Thank you...
Most likely is el. part of your ignition switch. the switch give power to solenoid to relies from park.and start the car.
Posted on Mar 28, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1999 CONCORDE: check the battery terminals probably they are not tight enough...something like that happened to me just the lights turned on and the car seemed to be dead, the battery is still ok since then. I just needed to buy new terminals.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
Try grounding the engine, they may have moved, removed, or broken the ground straps.
Take a jumper cable from the black(NEG) post to a bolt or clean piece of metal on the the engine.
And see if it starts.
Also check the connection at the starter, in case they had it disconnected during the repair.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 09, 2009
YOUR WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE(SENTRY KEY MODULE)MAY BE ELECTRICALLY LOCKED UP..THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN FROM CHRYSLER..YOU CAN REMOVE IOD FUSE IN FUSEBLOCK(UNDERHOOD BEHIND AIR CLEANER..IGNITION OFF DRAW(IOD)THIS WILL RESET WIRELESS CONTROL MODULE AND VEHICLE SHOULD START AND LOCKS RESPOND AGAIN..IF IT DOES,THE WCM WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED AND THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE BY DEALER
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
A rubber boot around the lock motor can disintegrate and get caught up in the motor gear or if the link age assembly to the motor gear has been fixed with epoxy glue ( allowing no free play) then these symptoms can develope which allows the automatic door locks to work but very stubborn almost impossible to open manually.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 Chrysler Sebring - Car
Hi, the most revealing test is to probe the starter motor relay socket with a 12 volt test light. Locate the relay in the box under the hood and pull it out of the socket. Connect the test light clip to battery positive and have someone turn the key to start while you probe the terminals of the socket. The 2 terminals on top in the diagram should not light the light, as they should both have the same battery voltage as you have on the other side of your test light. The one terminal that leads to the starter solenoid should light the light dimly, as it is grounded on the other side of the solenoid coil. The last terminal should light the test light brightly if the PCM believes you are using the factory to start the car and the transmission is in park or neutral.
1. If you get this only this one bright light and one dim light, the problem may be the relay itself. Try swapping it with another similar realy to test.
If you get no dim light or 2 bright lights, the problem is an open or shorted solenoid coil.
If you get only the dim light, the problem is with the safety interlock switch or the anti-theft system.
If the results are not among the three above, switch the test light clip tobattery negative and probe the socket again. With the key turned to start, you should get 2 bright lights--one from the ignition switch and one from the 20 amp fuse 8. If you don't get 2 bright lights, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, replace the ignition switch.
If your results are none of the 4 above, please get back to me with what your results were and I will provide further steps to correct the issue.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Mar 01, 2011
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