Question about 2000 Honda Civic
Having issues with irregular vltg running from alternator wiring connecting to it one at 12 vlts the other at 8 vlts my mechanic isn't sure what they should be pushing out or which one doesn't want to make mistake and burn bat
Change alternator if you did all realy change again might be defective
Posted on Mar 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Have you checked the alternator fuse? The regulator needs power from the fuse to turn on the alternator. The old alternator could have blown the fuse.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
SOURCE: Charging System issue!
I had a simular problem, and I have worked on cars for 37 years.
In my case it was the ecm. I tested and tested, come to find out, at higher rpm's, (when car is being driven), the ecm caused the voltage regulator to stay in a high charge situation, which burnt up the alternator, changed it, and was fine.
I'm not saying it will work in your case, but you tried everything else.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
Well, you need to find out what is shorting. You can turn the car off and using a Volt/ohm meter on the amp setting, remove each fuse one at a time. The power across a fuse with the vehicle static should be in the milliamp range. How does he know it is drawing 9 amps? You pull each fuse and check in and reinstall and move on to the next one until you find the short.
Some times the alternator has internal shorts. It's pretty easy to remove it and take it to AutoZone for a free test. Just remember to remove the battery cable when removing it.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
their is no fuse for alternator.you can go to the auto parts store and they will test your car for free.And tell you weather it alternator or battery.But it sounds like a battery issue
Posted on May 07, 2009
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Aug 09, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 01, 2013 | 1987 Honda Civic
I am seeing a lot of mustangs are having battery draining issues and I wish to share some simple solutions found while working on a friends 03 GT 4.6ltr.
In a quiet area, key switched off, hood up, Listen carefully close to alternator. I heard a high pitched hissing/whistle sound at low volume, came from back of alternator. This sound was the voltage regulator/rectifier staying on when key is off due to faulty diodes inside the voltage regulator/rectifier circuit, can cause battery to go dead after car not ran in about 2-7 days.
After having the alternator tested free at a parts store, test showed alternator was good because the faulty diodes in the alternator did not show up on the test, the machine did not test for faulty drain back issues that were present.
There was battery voltage running at all times through the two-wire connector on back of alternator. Disconnect the battery first for safety and to reduce chance of short circuit. The yellow wire/with white stripe is hot while car is off so I traced this from the 2-wire connector on the alternator then closer towards driver side front fender. Next I cut the Yellow/White Stripe wire, spliced a good connection wire to it and ran it through a hole in the fire-wall to the fusebox(under dash), connected it to a 15a fuse that does not get used but has power when key is turned on but no power when key is off.
The purpose for re-routing the hot wire to the alternator, is to turn off the alternator charging circuit when the key is turned off so it may not run down the battery. I am seeing good results with this fix(or patch) so far. No More Parasitic Battery Drain!
Another fix can be to change the small pulley on the alternator to a larger pulley so the alternator does not spin too fast, putting too much energy through the diodes can cause a charging system to act a fool. So if you have charging issues and have an alternator changed, putting a larger pulley on can make sense turn into saved dollars(especially on high revving engines).
I hope this info helps to solve some draining battery and/or alternator issues.
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