Question about 2010 Jeep Liberty

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Can not open back door on my 2010 jeep liberty

Manual release or electric will not open door although the electric motor runs

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  • Jeep Master
  • 20,706 Answers

That means the linkage is broken or jammed
remove covers, and look, while others press buttons.
it will be obvious what is wrong.

Posted on Mar 27, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Inoperable Power Window 2006 Jeep Liberty

the window regulator needs to be replaced

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 2003 Jeep Liberty rear wiper does not work

how is it not working, entirely not running, or just doesn't come in contact with the glass?

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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SOURCE: Jeep Cherokee door lock repair.

heard of your problem! open drivers door,look at door jam were wiring harness comes out of body,thier be a break in main door harness! peel back rubber boot and tug on wires.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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SOURCE: The rear tailgate door latch on my 2002 Jeep

Hello. I can assist you. Most likely, your door latch is broken and will need to be replaced. Historically these were metal and rusted due to exposure, soooooo now they are plastic and after a few hundred uses, they break. You can purchase the tailgate handle and replace it yourself but my recommendation is to let the shop do it as it can be a little tricky and often the linkage rods also need to be cleaned and lubricated. The total cost of this repair is generally about $75. Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty

BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/jeep/jeep-liberty-owners-manuals/

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