Leaking water from between pulleys and engine on passenger side of the engine
It overheated one night on my way home from work. I refilled all fluids after it had cooled down. A few days later it suddenly sounded like semi truck diesel engine and died shortly after. I coasted home and there was smoke rolling from under the hood. This time none of the gauges or warning lights went off. After it cooled off I went to refill the radiator again only to find that this time as I poured fluid into the radiator it was peeing right back out from something on the passenger side of the engine. I've been told it might the water pump. If so how do I replace it?
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if you keep going , instead of needing a new radiator , you will need another engine
temp gauges do not read with out water to make them work and if the temp keeps going up after refilling the radiator , it could be a head gasket or cracked head result
this isnt a solution,just a suggestion.my husband,a fairly skilled home mechanic,recently did this.it took 12 hours over a 2 day period.you have to remove everything from the front of the motor,including the motor mounts,to access the pump.make sure you change the timing belt at the same time if it shows ANY signs of wear so you aren't doing the procedure again anytime soon..good luck!!
SOUND LIKE COOLANT FANS HAS A FAULTY THERMO SWITCH LOCATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR ON LEFT HAND SIDE.CHECK THE FUSES 8 IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND CHECK FUSE 16 IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX.WHEN ENGINE OVERHEATING IF BOTH COOLING FANS WORKING.OVERHEATING PROBLEM COULD BE BLOWN HEAD GASKET.CHECK ENGINE OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK HEAD GASKET LEAKING.SEE WHEN YOU DRIVING LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS THE COOLING FANS SUPPOSE TO BE RUNNING.IF THEY NOT RUNNING THAT IS YOUR OVER HEATING PROBLEM.
I don't have a Mazda, but could suggest a couple of ideas. Leaks can be a pain to locate, especially in the cramped engine compartment of a mini van.These were designed to be assembled by the factory, not to be easily worked on later. Are the heater hose lines from your engine to the heater core at the rear of the engine to the fire wall OK? Run you hands along them and see if you get your fingers wet. You could have a leak there. Is the freeze plug on the engine block OK and not leaking? My Plymouth van had a freeze plug on the block that leaked and I had to replace one. (Real pain) I also had a water pump fail. My water pump was operated by the cam belt. When the bearing fails, the first indication is a small leak. On my vehicle, there was a small passage that would allow fluid to leak near the rear of side of the engine on the passenger side next to the crankshaft pulley. This was designed to keep the fluid off the timing belt. Mine dripped along the casting and dripped on the ground which made it appear to be coming from someplace else.You will have to get under the vehicle with a light to do a more detailed inspection to get an idea of where the leak is coming from. Depending on your mechanical experience, you might want to have a trusted service station take a look. Just remember, you don't have to have the work done if you don't want to, but they may require an inspection fee.Ask up front. As far as the overheating you might be low on fluid.Make sure you stay on top of the leak by filling up the radiator over flow bottle and the radiator itself.Do not check the radiator when hot.When the engine is cool, you can remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator directly up with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water if needed.Some coolant is also offered already premixed 50/50 at an auto part store.After filling, with the cap still off, start the engine and turn on your heater to full hot.The pump will lower the coolant level in the radiator as it pushes it through your heater core and engine.Add more fluid until full.When the engine worms up, the fluid will start to expand and start to overflow.Quickly reinstall the cap.Doing this should remove most of the air from your system and take care of your overheating.(I am assuming your pump is working, radiator fan is working, thermostat is opening, and your radiator is not clogged).When your radiator is full of coolant, you can then keep up with the leak demand if it is not excessive by filling up your overflow as needed until your leak is fixed. Again, leaks can be a pain to find. I would look for:
·Leaky heater hoses
·Replace radiator cap if over 7 year old
·Overflow bottle has a leak??
·Water pump on engine has a worn bearing and the weep hole is allowing fluid out to indicate a worn out bearing. Overheat problem:(check in order)
·Leak has caused a large volume of air to enter engine coolant system and it needs to be filled back up.
·Cooling fan on radiator not working.
·Engine thermostat not operating.
I hope these suggestions help you find your leak and deal with your overheating problem.
they should be even temp. check for low fluid level in radiator, may even have a bad thermostat. sorry i can't be more specific, is the car overheating at all? is engine fan on when engine at operating temp? is there any fluid leaking into the passenger compartment? if so, please repost your question. thank you for choosing fixya.com
The pulley that releases tension is on the passenger side and has a 1/2" square breaker bar hole to put a 1/2" breaker bar (2 feet long) into that you can get from Sears or an auto parts store that sells tools.
I would check the fluid level in the overflow tank to make sure there is enough coolant in the system.
Then, I would consider having it flushed and filled with new coolant.
I would check for slow leaks out of the water pump area on the passenger's side. There is an oil and coolant cover gasket on the side of the engine that sometimes leaks in the vicinity of the water pump.
We have a 1998 Ford Taurus that had this problem, and it took a few hundred dollars to fix the leak.
Lot of possible reasons. Some of them very stupid, even though I mention it here, sorry:
1. Thermostat regulating the cooling fluid flow - works correct? 2. Enough cooling fluid? Not leaking from somewhere? 3. Level of engine oil? Its quality? (If dirty or low oil, heat can not spreed into oil - oil is cooling subsatnce as well. If low oil level - you know what, engine is not lubricated etc.) 4. Water pump works correct? No pump, no water circulation. 5. Any dirt in the water circulation system? Piece of rock, shred of rag, maybe some sediments (can figure out only after disassembling the system = lot of garage work).
I had one friend who complained about his mazda MX3 quick overheating. My first question was, if there is cooling fluid and he told me "Of course!!! - I was in the garage yeasterday evening and fluid was refilled." The engine was hot and smoking badly after 3 mins of calm slow ride. Next day he called me with curious finding - there was no cooling fluid at all, was leaking out from the radiator.
Thanks for contacting Fixya.
Probably a water pump seal unfortunately. Pressurize the system, with the engine off, use a mirror to look under the water pump pulley to see if any fluid is dripping from the water pump seal weep hole.
If it is, change the water pump.
Good luck, let me know.