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Why wont my 49cc pit bike break work when ive put the correct fluid in and bleeded the lines

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If you pedal is soft/bleed again.If the pedal go slowly down/replace master cylinder.If the pedal is normal hard remove the caliper and try again to push slowly. Make sure the cylinder don't come out,just a little and retrieve .clean the slide and lubricate with high temp. anti size

Posted on Mar 27, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: bleeding brakes

You need to make sure you have an assistant. The assistant keep adding fluid and pumping the brakes while you operate the bleeder screws.

The procedure--LF,RF,LR,RR (left front, right front,etc). You are moving from the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder. Use an aquarium air hose (12 inch length), and a clear jar to catch the brake fluid. When no more bubbles escape through the hose, the caliper or cylinder is properly bled.

If the level drops below the LOW mark, air may reenter the system. Keep the reservoir full by checking after each bleed!

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: I am not getting any break fluid to one of my rear break calipers when trying to bleed them after replacing the caliper

check the bleeder valve on the caliper. A lot of times those come bad brand new or clogged.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

iambanshee74
  • 3489 Answers

SOURCE: problem with bleeding my breaks

this sounds like a autozone master cylinder. all you can do is go get another one. the best way, and quickest way to tell if this one is going to work is to install the master onto the booster and bleed it there by filling it up, snugging the lines and having someone inside to push the pedal down, you open the line and watch the stream. as long as you dont see air like when you bleed at the wheels. if you cant get a lack of air, take that 1 back too. the only way to get one thats good right off the bat is to buy the ac delco part it calls for. the people who "rebuild" these other ones dont often measure the inside bore when they put it back together. ive gone through 5 one time. cheers.

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

  • 880 Answers

SOURCE: i need to bleed all the fluid out of my brake

First suction all of the fluid out of the resovior. Now you have to open all four of the bleeder valves.(one per wheel) Next purchase enough correct brake fluid to be able to waste a goodly amount. Fill the resovior and one bleeded at a time and allow gravity to flow the fluid to the bleeder valve. When you have some fluid at each bleeded valve make sure all valves are closed except the one you are bleeding. Have someone pump the brake pedal several times then hold it all the way down. Slightly open the valve to let air escape. Continue this on all four wheels until no more air escapes AND you no longer see any transmission fluid in the brake fluid. When you have removed all of the air the brake pedal will no longer go to the floor and will be firm. To be certain all air is out after a complete system has been opened and drained I usually drive the vehicle for around seventy-five miles and recheck the bleeder valves again to make sure all air has been removed.

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

  • 844 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch suddenly has no resistance and car won't

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

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2 Answers

My break pedal goes all the way to the floor . I replaced brake rotors master cylinder, and Break booster. I had to bleed the brake and still pedal still goes to the floor


You still have air in the system.(not bled properly) If you let the Master cylinder drop down to nothing then you need to bench bleed that before bleeding the lines again.

Feb 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Can i plug my rear brakes(rusty line leaking and stuck in the middle of no where). ive got about 200 km to get home. its a ford courier 4x4.


You will have frount breaks but not the best thing to do by blocking the rear off. You real should put a new line on and bleed the rear breaks. If for some unknow reason you got in an accident bad thing could come from blocking the break line.

Nov 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brake and e brake warning lights stay on happen when i blew a brake line.


If brakes are mushy then you still have air in the lines.Did you bleed all 4 wheels?have wife push brake pedal down once and hold then bleed hold down one and bleed and so on if this has a quick takeup master cylinder pumping 3 or 4 times then bleed wont work

Jun 14, 2012 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I changed the front pads on my 05 trailblazer i did not have a c clamp so i took the break line off the caliper now when i tried to bleed the breaks with the bolt on the break line i only get a stiff pedal...


Have you checked your Master Cylinder to ensure that it's full of fluid? If it is empty the best way to bleed the brakes in that case would be to add fluid and then break the caliper bleeders loose and let gravity do its thing. Gravity bleeding is the best way to make sure you don't trap air in the brake system. Make sure you keep the master cylinder full of fluid while gravity bleeding. Run approx 2 reservoirs full to make sure that you have no more air in the line! And you should be done.
Also, the vehicle does not need to be running to gravity bleed.
Good luck!

Feb 06, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

2 Answers

Problem with bleeding my breaks


You need a special tool that plugs into the ABS hydraulic control unit and holds the POP-IT valves open to bleed the air out, unless you have that tool you will keep spinning your wheels, most brake shops have a tool to do this or the dealer of course will have it.

Dec 23, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

I cant get the brakes to pump up after bleeding them and replacing front lines


sounds like there is still air in system, put a hose from brake bleeder into jar of brake fluid to bleed and repeat for each set of brakes, checking brake fluid resevoir often. this will remove any air and keeps the line from sucking up air. there are one man break bleeding kits sold at auto parts stores but a clear air hose will work.

Oct 22, 2009 | 1993 Dodge Shadow

1 Answer

Bleeding the breaks


Get a short piece of hose and attach it to the bleed valve. Put the free end in a jar that has some fluid in it and put the free end of the hose into the fluid. Put the container lower than the item you are bleeding. Open the valve and work the pedal gently a few times, then wait...gravity will finish for you. Close valve and go to the next wheel.Get the bleeders free and clear them of debris before putting the hose on (hose should fit well, can't be loose or it won't work.) Monitor the master cylinder so it does not run low and leave the cap off while doing this. I use clear plastic hose so I can see the air as it comes out but you can use black hose and just watch the end for bubbles.

Aug 13, 2009 | 1995 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

Trouble Bleeding Break Line


you need to hold in the metering valve.when you bleed the front brakes.long as the valve closed off you wont be able to bleed front brakes.better to get extra help.hard to bleed by your self .

Apr 20, 2009 | 1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88

1 Answer

96 nis max rear break dont work


Sounds like you have a blockage in the brake line going to the back breaks...maybe a kink in the brake line or maybe the junction piece (found attached to the bell housing in the back) that sends brake fluid to both breaks in the back is bad. Or your rear breaks need to be adjusted... I would say brake cylinders, but I doubt both would go out at the same time. Also check to make sure your master cylinder is working ok and there is no air in the line...try bleeding the back brakes to see if any fluid is getting to the brake cylinders in the back, this will tell you if you have a kink in the line or air...if it bubbles when you check (bleed the lines) then your problem is air in the line and should be bled until you get a solid flow of break fluid with no bubbles at all. If you want to know how to bleed the rear break just write me back and I will instruct you on how to do that.

Apr 19, 2009 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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