Question about Cars & Trucks
If you pedal is soft/bleed again.If the pedal go slowly down/replace master cylinder.If the pedal is normal hard remove the caliper and try again to push slowly. Make sure the cylinder don't come out,just a little and retrieve .clean the slide and lubricate with high temp. anti size
Posted on Mar 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bleeding brakes
You need to make sure you have an assistant. The assistant keep adding fluid and pumping the brakes while you operate the bleeder screws.
The procedure--LF,RF,LR,RR (left front, right front,etc). You are moving from the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder. Use an aquarium air hose (12 inch length), and a clear jar to catch the brake fluid. When no more bubbles escape through the hose, the caliper or cylinder is properly bled.
If the level drops below the LOW mark, air may reenter the system. Keep the reservoir full by checking after each bleed!
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
check the bleeder valve on the caliper. A lot of times those come bad brand new or clogged.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
SOURCE: problem with bleeding my breaks
this sounds like a autozone master cylinder. all you can do is go get another one. the best way, and quickest way to tell if this one is going to work is to install the master onto the booster and bleed it there by filling it up, snugging the lines and having someone inside to push the pedal down, you open the line and watch the stream. as long as you dont see air like when you bleed at the wheels. if you cant get a lack of air, take that 1 back too. the only way to get one thats good right off the bat is to buy the ac delco part it calls for. the people who "rebuild" these other ones dont often measure the inside bore when they put it back together. ive gone through 5 one time. cheers.
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
First suction all of the fluid out of the resovior. Now you have to open all four of the bleeder valves.(one per wheel) Next purchase enough correct brake fluid to be able to waste a goodly amount. Fill the resovior and one bleeded at a time and allow gravity to flow the fluid to the bleeder valve. When you have some fluid at each bleeded valve make sure all valves are closed except the one you are bleeding. Have someone pump the brake pedal several times then hold it all the way down. Slightly open the valve to let air escape. Continue this on all four wheels until no more air escapes AND you no longer see any transmission fluid in the brake fluid. When you have removed all of the air the brake pedal will no longer go to the floor and will be firm. To be certain all air is out after a complete system has been opened and drained I usually drive the vehicle for around seventy-five miles and recheck the bleeder valves again to make sure all air has been removed.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
Posted on Jan 14, 2011
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