Question about 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Check power to my trailer brake
If the brake pedal is pressed, you should read 12 volts on pin 3 of the 7-pin tow connector.(DK BLU wire).
Posted on Mar 27, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if your vehicle lights are working all the fuses will be good. follow the cable from the towing socket on your vehicle , it will most likely go behind one of the rear lights to connect into your cars system,
check your tester where the cables join and you should find the problem. hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
The ABS will shut off the trailer brakes if it detects a problem. It sounds as if the problem is in the ABS control unit, or the trailer brakes may not be grabbing hard enough causing the trailer to push the truck when you are attempting to stop. This sometimes can be corrected by adjusting the gain up on the trailer brakes.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
The ford f250 has a saparate fuse panel for the trailor lights if using the ford wiring connectors and no ( aftermarket parts ) The stock fuse panel has the relays and fuses in a separate fuse panel near the brake master cylinder. The main power for the trailor brakes( If it has them) comes off the power distrbution box just to the left of the brake pedal hi on the firewall in the floorpan. The most likly cause after the fuses test good is the trailor itself. The flat four wire connector is easy to test with 12 volts ( jump box, Car battery, Battery charger, jumper cables) connect the grond ( negitive to the ground ( toung, or white wire in the plug ) Its the one thats different or oppisit the others. touch the positive to each one of the other wires one at a time to see if the lights come on. green is left turn and stop yellow is right turn and stop and brown is running lights.as long as the connections don't make a strong spark and the lights come on like described then the problem can be in the truck. The trailor doesnt light though and doesnt spark hard while test the lights and one wire doesnt light something leave it connected and start at the bulb and work forward bcak to the connector with a test light ( an ice pick device with a light bulb and a ground wire with an allagator clip to hook to ground.) Tes a good wire first to be sure the light is working and the ground your using is a good one. with say the running lights on remove the bulb and probe the socket base at the bulb base connectors and see the light work the other connector will be the brake turn light. Change to the wire at the connector that runs the light to be tested and see if it lights the test light. if not trace the wire to the front of the trailor or just run a new wire from the connector al the way to the light base. If this proves to be too much troble (hard to trace all the wires appear old and crodded, just dept store, or discount auto parts store buy a universal trailor lighting kit its all wired up and ready to go for less than $40 Has the wire and the two lights, install the lights and thread the wire, plug in and your done! Again if the truck is bad make sure the regular lights work right first. then again with the test light grounded test all the plugs wires at the plug with the tailor disconnectedand with the hazard flashers on and the parkings lights on all wires should light the test light except the white grond and it shouldn't even light dimmly. if it does repair where it connects to the frame of the truck . most problems when you find them on a system that used to work OK are crodded connections and broken wires always cheack the bulbs and replace regularly with new ones as trailors carrode and bounce and pound mre than the truck and heavy dudy bulbs should be used most common are the 1157 that can be upgraded to the 2057 fit the same and sometimes even cost the same. If you think your going to do this alot 10 blub packages of bulbs cost about the same as 2 bubble pacs of two blubs or 6 blubs for free. Brand name bulbs last longer and fail for vibration less than the never heard of bulbs that all of the stores are selling now. Wagner GE Sylviania and others you reconize may save you more than a traffic stop. they may unknowingly save you from the jeporardly that the policeman in the long run is trying to save you from. They got their job to do, we hired em, lets not have them work on us the other guy will be fine. The truck follow the dead wire that should be on to the front of the truck or find it at the front of the truck turned on and cut it install a new wire to the rear of the truck cut the wire near the connector and connect your new wire. If you would like the connection to last solder and heat shrink are best, crimp connections work and are faster but need to be crimped with the right tool again if you expect to do this kind of repair very often the more expensive tools do abetter job The connectors can be bought as heat shrink and are best sealed with a heat gun ( an extra hot blow drier for hair ) A lighter or a propane torch works but working with fire is just that you know who you are that can control this kind of work if you drop things and can't get the keys into the locks in your daily life on the first try don't use flame. Tape will work but seems to never last very long again the brand name tape the costs so muck you can't beleive it the cme from the name brand auto parts store and is their Hi dollar choice you may do just fine carefully installed on clean wire and connectors. Even well done tapedd connections seem to fail in around a year. A seasoned mechanic in a pro shop is likly to use the right techniques and is going to charge for his time but may save you big money down the road as the wiring will stay good and the accidents caused by lights not working right and major wiring fires that require major harness repairs can be avoided. Most vehicals don't have wire harnesses made as replacement parts so if you need on the manufacturer may make you one but they will make you wait awhile and they'll get way deep in your pocket or credit card account at the pay window to the point you may have to call the bank to see why not. Were Talking over $1000 for a part harness there can be as many as three or four for some cars imports can be as few as one and you better believe that some older vehicals are totalled easyly by needing the whole harness and paying to have it installed. Figure $1000 install fee I've been the man hired more than once. even at the dealers I've worked at. The boss treats me real nice when the job is going. as the customers money burns down hardest of any job going in the shop. Don't burn one if you can help it. Always be ready to disconnect the battery and try it before you get going. even a helper to disconnect as soon as troble shows is best. Thats all the helper is allowed to do too! Have fun anything can be fixed with money just your persoal saftey can be way out there in the area where money can't buy. Be careful and take you time working on live circuits. 12 volts won't get you but the hybride cars and spark systems have the power to kill you and most of the circuits are marked. If in dought have a pro do it and consider the money well spent.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
It is a possible option that the relays for the Stop / Turn are having an issue or the fuse in the Engine Mini panel is blown ( page 142 of the 1997 owners manual )
On the 1997/98 MY this is in the aux relay box in between the Engine Compartment fuse panel and the engine mini fuse panel.
The output of the MFS ( Multifunction switch ) triggers the relays, to use the trailer tow fuse to operate the trailer lamps. The fuse to supply power to the Normally Open contacts on the trailer relays should be hot at all times. You can verify this with the diagram below by metering from pin #3 to pin # 2 [ground for coil] or to another known ground.
These are 1/2 size Ford ISO relays, and can be jumpered to make testing easier ( and with this diagram you can bench test them with a meter to check resistance over the Normally Open contacts, when applying power and ground to the coil ).
I am not 100% sure on the 97/98 MY F-150 about the location of this connector, but the 99-03 have all the wires to the rear of the truck via a connector along the driver's side frame rail, that you can check for ( easiest with the spare lowered )
Start with the Fuse in the Engine Mini panel, to see if the 20A fuse is good and work back towards the trailer tow adapter via the relays. I am going with the obvious blown fuse for the Stop/Turn lamps for the trailer.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
Did you check the fuse for the trailer tow adapter paring lamps ? This is a separate fuse powered by a relay, it is not the same circuit as the truck's parking lamps.
This is fuse # F10 & The half size ISO relay, R201 in the fuse panel in the passenger side kick panel.
This is based upon being a new body style 2004, not the 2004 Heritage or Lightning models, those are different fuse & relay locations.
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
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