Question about 1988 Mazda 323 Hatchback
Engine cranks, but won't start. It is getting fuel when cranking. I put fuel in the spark plug hole, but won't fire on that. It does have spark when checking with the spark plug laying against something metal.
No no no! You have all missed the test/trick for this and all other rotary engines: cranks but won't start? Take a shot glass of engine oil and dump it down the intake and crank it till it starts! 9 of 10 times this little bit of oil will take out the gap between the apex seals and the seal and then you have enough compression for ignition. It will smoke like a pig for 5 min then it will clear. Start this engine daily for best performance do not let it sit and get dry apex blades they shrivel and it will not compress, remember start simple work from there. I have started every no start Mazda this way, worked every time.
Rate me after it works for you!
Posted on Oct 12, 2014
Check the distributor maybe it's out of timing or the engine has probably low compression.
Posted on Apr 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
well, with all that you have changed the only two possible things that are left PCM and the ECM....
Do you have an alarm system on this vehicle? If you purchased this car second hand it may have something that is inhibiting the engine from firing. From what you have told us here that would be where I would start looking.
I really hope this is helpfull
Posted on Aug 10, 2008
SOURCE: 2004 Mazda RX8
Had the same problem today with flooded engine. I tried new plugs ($86.00) and used the clear flood mode but to no avail. Spoke to a tech at the mazda dealership and odd as this sounds it worked. On the right side of the engine on the intake about half way down the runner you will find 2 rubber plugs that cover vacumn ports. The front one is the easier of the 2 to access, hook up a piece of vacumn hose to that port, on the other end you need to hook up a funnel. You will have to adapt the hose up to get it to fit. Remove the fuel pump relay, it is the blue relay at the front of the fuse box and is closest to the radiator. Pour a half to 3/4 quart of transmission fluid in the funnel and have someone crank the engine(with a battery charger or jumper cables hooked to your battery so you won't run the battery down). Leave throttle closed, as the fluid gets sucked down you will here engine compression build and it will act like it is going to start, at that point while it is still being cranked stick the fuel pump relay back in. It should then start, it may spit and sputter but it will run. Remove the hose from the vacumn port and reinstall port plug. The car will smoke for quite awhile but the smoke will finally disipate. From start to finish it only took about 2 min. to get the car started. I asked him if that much fluid would hurt it and he said no. He also said that they see this problem a couple of times a week. He also said that they don't take the plugs out and clean prior to doing the procedure, it will work on the old plugs. This saved me a tow to the dealership and probably a couple hundred dollars.
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
It's fine to use a battery with a higher cold crank rating than original. Consider the rating in the manual to be a minimum requirement. You'll be fine as long as the physical dimensions and terminal placement are compatible with your car. The battery manufacturer's guide should tell you which battery fits your car.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
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