Question about 1996 Dodge Dakota

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I have a 96 dodge Dakota 2.4 L , 4 cylinder. I installed 3 oil sensor switches, thinking they could be bad. I have no reading on oil gage in cab. I grounded lead to sensor, gage working. On the other

Runs great

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  • Dodge Master
  • 5,309 Answers

Try using a cheap mechanical oil gauge to make sure you do have oil pressure. If you do, something is preventing the senders from making ground to the engine. Are you using tape or sealer on sender threads? DON"T. the threads are the ground for the sender.

Posted on Dec 15, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Oil Light

I had the same issue. On the back of the engine (behind steering column) you'll see a pressure sensor with a wire going to it...check your connection. If that doesn't work, then your pressure sensor is probably at the end of it's road. You can get a new one for about 15 bucks at any parts store...hope this helps

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

  • 460 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 93 dodge dakota,i'm trying to find the ground strap.

on some it goes from motor to firewall or motor to the frame.. you have to have a good eye for it is easily overlooked...good luck

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • 1146 Answers

SOURCE: My dodge Dakota has a bad o2 sensor on it. It has

Hi:
I am pretty sure each O2 Sensor has it's own code.
If you have the code scanned again, it will tell you which one it is, bank 1 or bank 2 . before or after the Cat.

Posted on Nov 22, 2009

  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: changed oil recently on 96 dodge dakota, 3.9l. now

Hello, please let me give you some info that will be useful to you. The engine that you speak of is notorious for developing sludge and carbon buildup. These particles are gathered up at the pickup tube screen. This is why te pressure changes, the screen gets clogged, and, when the engine is turned off, the particle fall to the bottom of the pan.

What I would do: Raise the vehicle, and make sure that the vehicle is secure. Be real careful. Next, drain the oil. Then, remove the oil pan. Inspect the pan for debris, and the pickup screen for clogs, or blockages.

I recently had one of these vehicles in for service, and I cleaned the pan 3 times, and the issue reappeared each time... then, the owner got fed up with the debris issue, and traded it in.

Thanks for visiting FixYa!

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

Mustgo
  • 2359 Answers

SOURCE: MIL indicates cylinder misfire on 1, 3, and 5

Check for

vacuum leaks on intake manifold,

the air tube between the air filter.

intake manifold vacuum hose.

===
clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner

SEE sample picture HERE
===

Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.

===

Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.

More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.

Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.

At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.

The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.

Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.

===

EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.

You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.

Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.

Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.

Remove the EGR valve.

Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.

SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.

You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.

RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.

One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.

Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.

Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.


Take it for a test drive.


Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.


Cheers,

Mustgo

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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