Question about 2001 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

Car wont start

Replaced a door panel actuator on driver side then putting the door panel back on a screw went thru the wiring harness at first when you lock the window the air would turn on and now the car doesnt start at all.

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  • Master
  • 1,114 Answers

Look at that wiring harness that was pierced by the screw. Make sure the wires are not touching one another. If possible tape the wires individually to prevent them from shorting out on one another. Check the fuses for blown fuses.

Posted on Mar 26, 2014

Testimonial: "did that and replaced 15 amp fuse for ignition, lighter, and starter fuse"

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 town and country van back door will not unlock

sounds like the lock is seized, you will have to remove the panel,it's held on with screws and snap plugs, remove all the screws and then gently pull the panel off. you will be able to open the hatch by sliding the lever sideways. the latch and mechanical lock are the same unit. it has a electrical actuator. your dealer or regular tech sould be of great help in this very simple matter.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • 454 Answers

SOURCE: driver side door panel removal

Generic instructions to remove door panels:

1. Remove the screw(s) in the trim behind the door release handle and remove the trim.
2. Look for the screws in the arm rest and remove. Remove the arm rest.
3. Look for other screws (possibly under caps) and remove them.
4. Insert a wide flat blade between the door panel and the door. Find the plastic tabs which hold the panel to the door and gently pry the panel away from the door. Make sure you work as close to these plastic tabs as possible to avoid ripping the panel.
5. Work your way around the door prying the tabs out of the door.
6. When everything is free, gently lift the door panel straight up and out of the door.
7. Disconnect the electrical wires, and you are done.
8. There is a vapor barrier between the door and panel which must be gently peeled out of the way in order for you to gain access to the window and door latch mechanisms.

Posted on Jan 20, 2010

reisdos
  • 1297 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 chrysler sebring convertible jxi code p1495

replacing the fuel pump relay is one thing but what about the (ASD auto-shut down) relay

additionally...

  • what engine size?
  • what transmission?
  • any codes?
  • does the pump run KOEO?
  • Do you have spark?
  • What is the cranking speed?

you may find faster service by subscribing to a "live chat" since there are so many questions and variables in your concern

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: How do i remove the driver's inside panel door? My

Like reference guide, check this procedure to Removal & Installation / Door Lock Motor...

The door lock motor is integral with the door latch. If the door lock motor is found to be defective, the entire door latch must be replaced.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Roll the door glass down.
  3. Disengage the 2 clips attaching the speaker grille to the door trim panel. (They are at the front of the grille, one near the top, and the other one at the bottom).
  4. Remove the 3 large washer-headed screws surrounding the speaker.

    6acb803.jpg
    Fig. Fastener location for the door lower trim panel
  5. Remove the access cover at the front of the door trim panel. Remove by prying at its rear edge.
  6. Remove the red courtesy reflector from the lower tail of door. Disengage by prying at the screwdriver notch at the bottom of the reflector.
  7. Remove the flag trim panel from the door by prying it off at the 2 attachment clip points.
  8. Remove the 7 screws attaching the door trim panel to door:
    1. One screw is located at the lower rear screw pocket.
    2. Three screws are located along the bottom of the door.
    3. One screw is located inside the handle opening.
    4. One screw is located at the upper front.
    5. One screw is in the pull cup.
  9. Disengage the 2 hidden clips attaching the rear of the trim panel; pry them off at the 2 attachment clip points.
  10. Lift the trim panel upward and away from the door, disengage the trim panel from the upper retainer channel.
  11. Disengage the clip attaching the latch linkage to back door handle.
  12. Disconnect the electrical connectors as necessary, including the lower foot light, if equipped.
  13. Remove the door trim panel from the door.
  14. Remove the water shield (water dam) from the inside of the door.

    b5ff0ae.jpg
    Fig. Remove the flag trim panel, door trim access cover, inside remote handle, and power door lock switch
  15. Raise the door glass.
  16. Remove the bolt and nut for the rear glass run channel and position the channel aside.
  17. Disconnect the lock rod from the lock button bellcrank.
  18. Disengage the lock and latch rods from the clips on the inner door panel.
  19. Disconnect the lock and latch rods from the outside door handle and the key cylinder at the door latch.
  20. Disconnect the wire connector from the power door lock motor.
  21. Remove the screws attaching the door latch to the door end frame.
  22. Remove the door latch and the power door lock motor from the vehicle.

    c5c04cf.jpg
    Fig. Expanded view of the door lock, latch, and linkage


    185c44d.jpg
    Fig. View of the door lock button, latch rod, lock rod, and door latch

Hope helps (remember rated this).

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing blower motor 2001 Chrysler Voyager.

Check this procedure to removal & installing Blower Motor...

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the right quarter trim panel as follows:
    1. Remove first rear seat. Remove the second rear seat, if equipped.
    2. Remove the sliding door sill plate.
    3. Remove the quarter trim bolster.
    4. Remove the upper C-pillar trim and D-pillar trim panel.
    5. Remove the first and second rear seat belt anchors.
    6. Remove the screws securing the quarter trim to quarter panel from the bolster area.
    7. Remove the screws securing the rear edge of the quarter trim to the support bracket.
    8. Carefully disengage the hidden clips securing the front of the quarter trim to the quarter panel just rearward of the sliding door opening.

      zjlimited_93.jpg

      Fig. Removing the trim panel to access the rear blower motor (click for zoom)

    9. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the accessory power outlet, if equipped.
    10. On long wheelbase wagons only, remove the quarter trim from the quarter panel and pull second rear seat belt through access hole.
    11. Pull first rear seat belt through the access hole.
    12. Remove the quarter trim panel from the vehicle.
  3. Remove the 5 screws mounting the A/C-heater blower motor housing to the rear HVAC unit (one mounting screw located on evaporator cover).
  4. Twist the blower motor out of scroll housing.
  5. Disconnect the blower motor wiring connector.
  6. Remove the blower motor from vehicle.

    zjlimited_94.jpg

    Fig. The rear blower motor is held in place by four screws

To install:
  1. Install the blower motor unit into the vehicle.
  2. Reconnect the blower motor wiring connector.
  3. Secure the blower motor into scroll housing.
  4. Install and tighten the 5 screws mounting the A/C-heater blower motor housing to the rear HVAC unit (one mounting screw located on evaporator cover).
  5. Install the right quarter trim panel as follows:
    1. Install the quarter trim panel in position in the vehicle.
    2. Insert and pull the first rear seat belt through the access hole in quarter trim panel.
    3. On long wheelbase wagons only, insert and pull the second rear seat belt through access hole in quarter trim panel.
    4. Reconnect the wiring harness connector to the accessory power outlet, if equipped.
    5. Engage the hidden clips to secure the front of quarter trim to quarter panel rearward of sliding door opening.
    6. Install the retaining screws that secure the rear edge of quarter trim to support bracket.
    7. Install the retaining screws that secure the quarter trim to the quarter panel in bolster area.
    8. Install the second rear seat belt anchor (if equipped), and the first rear seat belt anchor.
    9. Install the D-pillar trim panel and upper C-pillar trim.
    10. Install the quarter trim bolster.
    11. Install the sliding door sill plate.
    12. Install the second rear seat, if equipped, and install the first rear seat.
  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check blower motor operation.

Keep us updated.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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1 Answer

How do i fix a stuck blend door on 2010 dodge nitro?


I would pull off the blend door actuator and swap it out with a new one. Or another option is to swap it out with one of the other actuators. The blend door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the mode-air doors and the recirculation-air door.

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

If equipped, remove the silencer from below the driver side of the instrument panel.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the blend door actuator located on the driver side of the air distribution housing.

Remove the two screws that secure the blend door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket and remove the actuator

Feb 17, 2015 | 2010 Dodge Nitro

1 Answer

Door lock actuator


This solution is for a 1998 Ford Taurus door lock actuator replacement. In this solution, I'm working on the front passenger door of a 1998 Ford Taurus SE (4 door). I installed a new door lock actuator from Advance Auto Parts, it's a Dorman 746-145, about $50 list, my cost was about $30 with a coupon I got by googling Advance Auto Parts Coupons, and applying a code at checkout.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the interior door panel: Unscrew and remove the push/pull thing used to lock and unlock the door manually. Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the sides of the interior door panel. Remove the Phillips screw that's in the bottom of the interior door handle. Use a large screwdriver to pry the lower right hand corner of the interior door panel out, you may or may not be able to pop the clips free, work your way across the bottom and up the sides, pulling or prying or both. Pop it free all the way around, the top center clip can be a bear to get free. Make sure all the other sides are free, then get the top center clip. I think I pulled the top right of the panel to the top right, over the top of the door lock rod/button, and then it just popped free.

Remove the wiring harnesses for the electric window and electric lock buttons inside the panel you just removed: Push the button in, and pull the ring extending around the button for something to grip to pull it free. Rocking it a little seems to help. I used channel locks once a few months ago, but be careful.

The panel's free, set it aside where it won't get broken. You can leave the speaker in.

Pull the plastic water barrier off of the right half of the interior of the door. Take some tape or something and tie it down on the left side of the interior of the door, you'll be working on the right side only.

Take a look into the bottom right corner inside the door with a small flashlight. There's the actuator. Take note of the new part, and the old part, and the way the rod's connected to the actuator.

Note the Position of the actuator in the door, look at the new actuator, the wiring release clip is on the right (towards the steering wheel if the door were closed).
You will NOT need to remove the rivet that's in the actuator bracket. It just holds 2 pieces of the bracket together.

Remove the two 11mm bolts at bottom right that hold the actuator bracket and window track/rail in place.

Remove the 3 torx screws on the edge or end of the door, that hold the door lock in place. Don't worry, everything won't fall apart, you'll be fine.... :)

Now you'll need to find out how much slack is in the wiring to the bottom of the actuator. Do not pull on the wires. But you do have to take off the wiring clip from the bottom of the actuator. If the wires are long enough, push the window track/rail out of the way and swivel the bottom of the actuator towards you a little for easier access. I used a small flat blade screw driver to hold the locking clip out, as I pulled the wiring clip off the bottom of the actuator. Good Luck......

You won't be able to see much, so take a good look at the new actuator before trying to take the wiring clip off the old actuator.

Now to get the Actuator out of the door: Carefully push/move the window rail/track out of the way, moving it as little as possible, don't kink it, while pulling the actuator towards you. The actuator connecting rod will swivel where it connects above (at the lock), and allow you to move it.

Once the Actuator is clear of the window rail/track, take a screw driver and push the lock itself in as far as is necessary about an inch or so), while holding the actuator with the other hand, continue holding the lock in with the screw driver, while maneuvering the actuator to free the connecting rod from the lock assembly above. A half twist/turn is about all it takes to free it. Note how to reassemble it before disassembling it.

The actuator with the connecting rod on it is out of the car door.

Now for the hard part, use pliers or screwdrivers or whatever it takes, and remove the old clip that holds that connecting rod to the old actuator.

Hold that connecting rod up to the new one.

The new one I got was a little bit longer than the old one, and would not work until after I ground about 1/16th of an inch off the end of it. Making it identical to the old part. I recommend using the old connecting rod. Easier.

You'll still have to use the new clip on the connecting rod either way. With O-rings. I used a new o-ring on the top side, and an old o-ring on the bottom, because the old o-ring stayed in place by itself, and the new one was larger, and fell off the connecting rod. Bend the old o-ring and make sure it's not full of cracks before re-using it. Ace Hardware probably isn't too far away....

Before attaching the locking clip to the connecting rod, put the rod into the new actuator. There should only be enough extra room for the o-ring. If there's more room than that, you won't be able to get the locking clip on. Meaning, you'll have to use the old connecting rod, or grind some off the new rod. Put the old connecting rod in the actuator, and the new connecting rod in the actuator, if the space is the same or less for the new connecting rod, you're ok. If it's just a little bit more, it probably will not work.

Once you're certain your connecting rod is the proper length, assemble the connecting rod of your choice to the new actuator using 2 O-rings and the new connecting clip that came with your new actuator. This will not be easy. I had to get Fay to help me. she complained her fingers were getting pinched, so I had her hammer it on, and yes, my fingers got pinched. But no blood. Just pinched. Maybe I should have held it with pliers instead of my fingers....

I used I think it was a 3/8" line wrench (probably the smaller the better, this was the smallest I had), over the top the the new clip, and hammered it onto the new actuator. By hammered, I mean barely tapped on the wrench with a hammer, while the line wrench was perfectly positioned on the clip - to drive it onto the actuator. Stop when it's on, or you may break something.

After it's on, turn the clip a little (say half a turn), if it stays on, leave it.

The rest is pretty obvious. Pry the bracket off the old actuator (I used a flat blade screwdriver), noting it's position on the old actuator, and put it on the new one.

Push the lock in with a screwdriver (thru side of door), just enough to attach the rod on the actuator back into its place on the lock assembly.

Putting it back together is easy. Just don't forget any of the bolts that were removed. Start the 3 bolts that hold the lock. Start the two 11mm bolts that hold the actuator bracket and window rail/track. Tighten those 5 bolts. Hit what you can with a spray can of white lithium grease (Walmart has it next to the carb cleaner). Hit the lock, linkage, I even hit the window track. But not the wires. Work the manual lock button up and down making sure everything works freely.

I siliconed the water cover back onto the door (silicone was handy), then reattached the door panel. Connect the window and lock wiring first, and don't forget the 3 screws that hold the door panel on. And attach the door lock button that screws onto the top of the that door lock rod last.....

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Test the lock actuator.

Mine was binding at the top, where the manual lock button goes thru the hole in the door panel. I probably should have bought new skinnier lock buttons, but I had the grinder out anyway, so yes, that plastic/rubber button got ground down. All the way around. Works fine now. This was probably the cause of that actuator going out.

Good Luck to You with Yours.... :)

Aug 22, 2013 | 2006 Acura TL

2 Answers

Heat comes thru driver's side vents, but blows cold air thru passenger side vents


You likely have a faulty blend door. It could be electrically, mechanically related, or even a broken door. It may be the blend door motor, or possibly the temp sensor.

Dec 30, 2012 | 2010 Ford Flex

1 Answer

Problem with dual zone heating only one side i check control thermost botton is ok


Sounds like the blend door actuator. It separates the driver and passenger side from getting air on the AZC system. Here are some instructions on replacing it:
The passenger side blend door actuator is used on all models equipped with Automatic Zone Control (AZC). This actuator is located on the front of the HVAC housing to the right of the floor panel transmission tunnel and cannot be removed from the passenger compartment without instrument panel or HVAC housing removal.

NOTE: This procedure is for AZC Systems (Passenger side only).

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Remove the glove box door. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim
  3. Remove the lower I/P glove box door surround panel.
  4. Remove the dash assembly. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair\Instrument Panel Assembly
  5. Remove the HVAC assembly. See: Housing Assembly HVAC\Service and Repair
  6. Unplug the wire harness connector from the blend door actuator.
  7. Remove the 2 screws that secure the blend door actuator to the HVAC housing.
  8. Remove the blend door actuator from the HVAC housing.
INSTALLATION - AZC (Passenger side only)


  1. In stall the blend door actuator on the HVAC housing and tighten the two mounting screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.).
  2. Plug in the wire harness connector to the blend door actuator.
  3. In stall the HVAC unit into the vehicle. See: Housing Assembly HVAC\Service and Repair
  4. Install the instrument panel assembly into the vehicle. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair\Instrument Panel Assembly
  5. Evacuate the HVAC system.
  6. Recharge the HVAC system.
  7. Connect and the battery negative cable.
Hope it helps! If you need more, just send me an email at familyguy77351 at yah I wil be glad to finish helping you with more detail.

Dec 12, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

The heat in my 2006 grand prix will not get hot. We replaced the thermostat and got nothing. So I got the radiator flush and force filled again. Still nothing. Temp of the motor still gets to the middle,...


Are the 2 tubes that go to the heater core getting hot? If so, then the blend door is not opening to allow heat to get to the cabin.

Possible vacuum motor problem, either disconnected, or the controller for the blend door is broken is likely problem.

Troubleshooting by Symptom Poor Heater System Performance CAUTION
Check all fluid levels and adjust as needed, before operating vehicle for extended periods at idle.
  1. Start the engine.
  2. Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (upper radiator hose will be hot) Is the engine at normal operating temperature (approx. 200° F)? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 16.
  3. Set the mode selector to FLOOR mode.
  4. Set the heater control selector to the warmest temperature setting.
  5. Set the blower speed the lowest setting.
  6. Carefully feel the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Is the inlet heater hose significantly hotter than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to step 14. If no, go to the next step.
  7. Set the mode selector to PANEL mode.
  8. Select the maximum blower speed.
  9. Select the warmest temperature setting.
  10. Place a thermometer into the center I/P PANEL air outlet and affix a second thermometer to the heater core outlet heater hose.
  11. Record the temperature at the center I/P PANEL air outlet and at the heater core outlet heater hose. Are the two temperature readings about equal? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 13.
  12. Inspect and repair the cowl, cowl area, recirculation door, and the HVAC evaporator/heater core case for cold air leaks. Repair any problems found, go to step 17.
  13. Inspect the temperature door operation. Repair any problems found, go to step 17.
  14. Turn OFF the engine. Back-flush the heater core. Start the engine. Select the FLOOR mode and the lowest blower speed. Select the warmest temperature setting. Feel the temperature of the inlet and outlet heater hoses at the heater core. Is the inlet heater hose feel significantly hotter than the outlet heater hose? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 17.
  15. Replace the heater core. When the repair is completed, go to step 17.
  16. Check for low engine temperature problems, Repair or replace as needed, go to step 17.
  17. Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system operates properly, the repair is complete. If the heater still does not work properly, repeat the entire procedure.
Air Door Actuators/Motors Removal & Installation Recirculation Actuator To Remove:
  1. Remove the right lower instrument panel (I/P) insulator.
  2. Remove the glove box assembly. Recirculation actuator (Typical) gm-10-00-3695.gif

  3. Remove the mounting screws and recirculation actuator from the HVAC module assembly.
  4. Disconnect the recirculation actuator harness connector.
To Install:
  1. Align the recirculation actuator slots with the flats on the actuator door shaft.
  2. Install and secure the recirculation actuator on the HVAC module assembly with the mounting screws.
  3. Connect the recirculation actuator harness connector.
  4. Install the glove box assembly.
  5. Install the right lower I/P insulator.
  6. Calibrate the recirculation actuator.
Mode Actuator To Remove:
  1. Remove the right lower instrument panel (I/P) insulator.
  2. Remove the glove box assembly. Mode actuator gm-10-00-4356.gif

  3. Remove the mounting screws and mode actuator from the HVAC module assembly.
  4. Disconnect the mode actuator harness connector.
To Install:
  1. Align the mode actuator slots with the flats on the actuator door shaft.
  2. Install and secure the mode actuator on the HVAC module assembly with the mounting screws.
  3. Connect the mode actuator harness connector.
  4. Install the glove box assembly.
  5. Install the right lower I/P insulator.
  6. Calibrate the mode actuator.
Air Temperature Actuator Right Side To Remove:
  1. Remove the right lower instrument panel (I/P) insulator.
  2. Remove the glove box assembly. Air temperature actuator (right side) gm-10-00-4356.gif

  3. Remove the mounting screws and right air temperature actuator from the HVAC module assembly.
  4. Disconnect the right air temperature actuator harness connector.
To Install:
  1. Align the right air temperature actuator slots with the flats on the actuator door shaft.
  2. Install and secure the right air temperature actuator on the HVAC module assembly with the mounting screws.
  3. Connect the right air temperature actuator harness connector.
  4. Install the glove box assembly.
  5. Install the right lower I/P insulator.
  6. Calibrate the mode actuator.
Left Side To Remove:
  1. Remove the left lower instrument panel (I/P) insulator. Air temperature actuator (left side) gm-10-00-4357.gif

  2. Remove the mounting screws and left air temperature actuator from the HVAC module assembly.
  3. Disconnect the left air temperature actuator harness connector.
To Install:
  1. Align the left air temperature actuator slots with the flats on the actuator door shaft.
  2. Install and secure the left air temperature actuator on the HVAC module assembly with the mounting screws.
  3. Connect the left air temperature actuator harness connector.
  4. Install the left lower I/P insulator.
  5. Calibrate the mode actuator.

Oct 18, 2010 | 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My driver side door wont lock


The actuator that locks the door is probably worn out. I would simply lock it manually .
If you desire to , you can replace the actuator by removing the interior trim panel and drilling the rivets holding the actuator in the door. Replace the rivets with small screw/bolt combos .

Jul 15, 2010 | 1998 Ford Crown Victoria

2 Answers

How to replace passenger side mirror on 2007 Camry


To remove mirror pry off inside triangle panel(black) which exposes 3 nuts which are removed with socket wrench. Detach wire harness and pull out mirror assembly. To replace insert new mirror screws thru assigned holes and reconnect wire harness and tighten nuts to snug. Push inside triangle panel back into place and you're done! It's that easy.

Dec 04, 2009 | 2007 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

200 Jeep Laredo..Air is cold and fan is blowing,


there is a blend door actuator for the laredo and if is bad the air wont come out here is a pic of what it looks like and how to get to it


The single zone heater-A/C system is equipped with a single blend door actuator. The dual zone system has two blend door actuators, one for the driver side blend-air door and one for the passenger side blend-air door.
7d2da02.gif
  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the glove box from the instrument panel.
  3. Remove the three screws that secure the blend door actuator to the passenger side of the HVAC air distribution housing .
  4. Remove the blend door actuator from the air distribution housing and disconnect the HVAC wire harness connector from the actuator.
  5. Remove the blend door actuator from the vehicle
to instal
  1. Position the blend door actuator into the vehicle.
  2. Install the blend door actuator onto the passenger side of the HVAC air distribution housing . If necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those on the blend door cam .
  3. Install the screws that secure the blend door actuator to the passenger side of the air distribution housing . Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  4. Connect the HVAC wire harness connector to the blend door actuator.
  5. Install the glove box into the instrument panel.
  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Sep 09, 2009 | 1998 Cadillac Seville

3 Answers

1996 toyota camry


It is not a fuse. All of the windows are on thje same circuit. You either have a bad window motor, or a bad driver side door master window cantrol switch.

Feb 07, 2009 | 1996 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Blend door


ok first put you front seat down and back raise steering wheel . now lay on you back with you head in the drivers floor board. look up see 2 screws remove them and the panel they hold on . look to left main wire harness needs to be moved to the right , up and behind it is th blend actuator 7/32 socket to remove it then manually turn the white peg , total labor 30 min

Aug 28, 2008 | 2005 Chevrolet Impala

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