Question about Mercedes-Benz C-Class
First bas esp light comes on and off then stuck key in ignition and idle came on like steroids took key out twice before idle was regular again now car will shut off but will immediately start again real scary
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check to see if the floor on the passanger side is wet. If so, than your A/C drain clogged up and your ECM/computer got flodded by water causing all sorts of funky stuff happening. Right next to the gas pedal is a small cover attached to the computer. It has a clip in it. Remove the clip and tug on the cover. Look at the top of the computer to see if its rusted up. Remove the other side cover also, which is on passanger side floor next to your left foot(if you sitting in passenger seat). and check other side of ECM/computer. Check the ECM for rust on top.
If ALL of that looks OK, than I would replace the switch,(since you are telling me that the key got VERY hot) that is mounted on the back of the ignition cylinder. Its a white round switch that failes after a while especially car beeing 1996, just think about how many times that ignition has been turned ON/OFF since 1996. The mechanism in the switch failes, causing starting issues and funky electrical issues.
Does the car have a remote starter installed?? Or didi it have one in the past?? I have seen companies that install them cause some damage to the harnesses on the switch that is mounted to the back of the igniton cylinder. They use "scotch locks" to connect the remote starter and after a while the connection corrode and cause problems too.
Anyways, check the computer for rust first. Than I would install that switch on back of the igniton. You can buy the switch seperately. You dont need the whole ignition assembly/switch only. Switch is pretty cheap (approx $50 ?). Try that and post results. I would feel pretty good about the switch beeing faulty. I have ssen them fail in the past and that's where your power comes into for the starter circuit.(key getting HOT, switch shorting out, making the key hot and starting the car without the key)
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
As you may know, modern automobiles (from the 1980's to present) have at least one computer controlling them. This computer (or computers) control the fuel to air mixture via either electronic fuel injection or a feedback carburetor. On the newer vehicles the computer also controls the ignition timing (That's when the spark plugs fire).
The newer a vehicle is,the more stuff the computer(s) control. The newest vehicles have the computer shifting the automatic transmission or transaxle as well as controlling spark and fuel mix. Many vehicles also have a climate control computer which controls the A/C and heat. Luxury cars often have vehicle anti-theft controlled by computer: some even will adjust the seat and steering wheel to suit different drivers when they enter the car!!!
The downside to all this "smarts" on a car is obvious: what happens when something breaks? The good thing is that the onboard computers themselves are very reliable. The problem is that the computers rely on a whole flock of sensors and wires to give them the data needed to make your car run. These sensors are not nearly as reliable as the computer itself, in fact they fail quite often!
This is where a "limp home mode" comes into play. Whenever the vehicle computer gets a reading from a sensor that is obviously wrong, it will "assume" a value that it "knows will work". On the earliest computer controlled cars with feedback carburetors, if the computer got bad readings from sensors, it would run the carb at the richest setting. You would get horrible gas mileage, but the car WOULD run. The computer would then turn on an amber "CHECK ENGINE" light. It would also store a trouble code in its memory telling what sensor was giving a "bogus" reading.
The newer computers are much more sophisticated, and just because a "CHECK ENGINE" light comes on doesn't really mean the computer is totally in a "limp home mode". Depending on what sensor reading is out of specs the computer may still be doing a pretty good job of controlling the engine. For example, some cars can have the "CHECK ENGINE" light come on if you don't tighten your gas cap tight enough after filling up!
On most vehicles the "CHECK ENGINE" light will go out if the sensor starts giving normal readings again, although some computers will make you use a scan tool to turn the light off.
This basically looks like the sensor to me, try getting that fixed for good.
Kindly let us know for any future assistance.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
SOURCE: ESP/BAS warning light on. went
Hi, these systems are all linked together. Most commonly, one of the wheel speed sensors is not reading or is reading incorrectly. This can also occur on slippery surfaces where one or more wheel slides enough to cause the sensor to drop the signal, but not enough to meet criteria for an abs or esp episode. If the light comes back every time you turn on the ignition, there is a deeper problem.
The system has detected a fault in the electronic stability program - brake assist system. You have an electrical connection at the rear wheels secured to the inside of the brake area and are viewable from under the vehicle. It is a small wire harness running to each wheel. Grab the connector and wiggle it around, and make sure they are tight. Due to the connector being mounted low to the ground, sometimes they become dirty or corroded, not making contact. Do this on both sides and see if the lights turn off.
If the light does not turn off, you have to replace dynamics sensor, which is mounted UNDERNEATH the center console in the car. There is a "lost communication to dynamics sensor" and "low voltage to dynamics sensor supply"..
Posted on Feb 13, 2011
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