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The shift solenoid valves are two identical, electronic exhaust valves that control upshifts and downshifts in all forward gear ranges. These valves are normally open. These shift solenoid valves work together in a combination of ON and OFF sequences in order to control the positions of the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shift valve trains. The TCM monitors numerous inputs to determine the appropriate solenoid state combination and transmission gear for the vehicle operating conditions.
Remove the transmission side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement . Remove the 1-2 shift solenoid retainer clip (304), the 1-2 shift solenoid (305) with O-ring (303), the 1-2 shift valve (302), and the 1-2 shift valve spring (301).
Remove the PNP switch. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch Replacement . Remove the transmission upper side cover bolts. Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the left inner fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the wheel drive shaft from the transmission. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts. Remove the power steering gear mounting bolts. Refer to Steering Gear Replacement in Power Steering. Remove the frame. Refer to Frame Replacement in Frame and Underbody.
This is a tough repair an needs special tools to do it . your best bet is take it to AAMCO
#1. A wheel bearing should not lock up the rear end. #2. Sounds like you have a far worse problem, probably in the differential. To replace the wheel bearing you need to remove the diff cover, take out the spider gear pin remove the locking c clip and remove the axle. Obviously the left rear wheel and rotor and caliper have to be removed as well. then the bearing ,which is pressed into the housing needs to be removed. If the bearing is that bad the axle will need to be replaced as well.
Remove the cover on the rear axle Inside you will see the differential gears. If the gears are damaged or there is a large amount of metal flakes in the lube, likely the differential has failed. Generally it is far cheaper and easier to replace it with a scrapyard unit. Replacing the gear set is not a bolt in procedure and takes special tools and knowledge..To replace it end to end, all you need is a decent set of tools, some common sense and a manual if you are a novice or unsure of yourself. Only thing you need is to match the gear ratio to the front one. You can either identify that from a metal tag on the cover or by counting teeth on the ring gear and pinion gears. Ring divided by pinion=ratio. If the transfer case has been diagnosed as bad, make sure the noise isn't being transmitted through the driveshaft. Verify diff condition by looking!!
To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing
There are bearings in the rear diff that make a "whining" noise it can be repaired by replacing the bearings. Here is how its done;
1. Jack up the rear end and support if correctly with jack stands. 2. remove the wheels and expose the axles 3. remove the differential cover and drain the differential 4. rotate the main gear inside and expose the take down bolt. (8mm) 5. remove the take down pin in the spline drive. 8mm nut 6. remove the axles and remove the main gear. then take out the bearings. 7. replace the bearings and reinstall the components in reverse order. 8. refill the differential.
If you take the VIN # to a GM dealer they should be able to tell you the original rear end that the vehicle came with. If you are going to take the rear end to a shop they will be able to tell when they take it apart. If it is a posi rear end it will have a tag under one af the cover bolts (if it has not been removed) Once inside a posi rear end is immediately identifiable from the clutch pack. Also the number of teeth is stamped on each (pinion and ring) gear. Divide ring gear # by Pinion gear # to get rear end ratio. Didn't get directly to your question, but I hope this helps. Let me know. Thanks
the problem is caused by the "end clutch" this is the 4th gear or over drive gear of the auto trans, it is mounted in an alloy cover on the chassis rail side of the trans, will requre removal of this cover and new clutch packs fitted, until then just drive the car with OD off, any trans shop can replace this for ya, fairly easy,