Question about 1995 Jeep Cherokee
Just wanted an idea
4wd? which tranny? some are 2wd, you know that?
we can not guess that.
and the seal is free, the labor is 99.9999% of the cost.
if you work on 4wd cars, you learn fast what labor means.
ROB, the jeep dealer sells it, and is on line and you can see the cost there, any time , anywhere on earth (WWW)
here is the link. to one of 100s.
my 5 jeeps, 88 to now
all have 5/6speed and 4wd
what is yours? ive not a clue.
is the transfer case leaking (if you even have one)
is the trans leaking, rear.? as you say.?
on mine, if the tranmission rear leaks oil, its not the transmission leaking because , only the transfer case can leak, see?
it replaces the tranny seal with the transfer case.
on one old jeep the front xtransfer case seal can leak to the center section. so look under your car , and tell us, exactly the spot of the leak. even a photo speaks 1000 words , or more for leaks.
what i do is clean it first, drive 10 miles then look.
wind and gravity are not our friends here.
In some cases, its better to just let it leak
but again, no drive line options stated at all ,so can NOT advise.
Posted on Apr 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear Axle Seal Replacement
remove rear tires, then remove brake calipers and rotors, then remove the 4 nuts (each side) that hold the axle shafts to the axle tube (located around the axle tube behind the backing plate) then using a slide hammer pull the axle shafts out, next using a die grinder and an air hammer get he retainer collar and the bearing off (without damaging the axle shaft) then remove the seal and the outer race which will still be in the housing. next put it all back together, make sure the plate with the studs is still on then slide the seal, bearing, then retainer on (all new parts) and using a press push them all the way back on. then is simple reassembly.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
You will need to remove the differential rear cover,drain fluid, remove wheel, brake drum, (rotor) . Unbolt center diff. pin, carefully remove (don't loose shims) push axle in remove lock keeper, then slide out axle, replace seal, put some grease on it, slide axle in reverse all to install.
Posted on May 22, 2009
Actually yeah you are in luck that combination only requires dropping the oil pan. The seal is actually fairly easy to do it yourself, if your inclined. Parts about $20.00 and it's book rate is 5 hours. around here shops charge around $85/hour. About $500.00 out the door or under $50.00 if you want to get greasy. Here's a good picture guided step by step on a Jeep CJ with a 4.0 liter, yours is pretty much the same:
Posted on May 23, 2009
SOURCE: rear main seal replacement for
Wrong. just remove the oil pan, exhaust downpipe and O2 sensor, and starter. take off the crank bearing brace and finally remove the rear main bearing cap. half the seal will be in the cap and half you push out from around the crank with a small brass punch so as not to damage the crank pull out with needle nose pliers and slide the new one in ( noting that oil should go on the mating surface of the crank and liquid dish soap on the outside of the upper seal). rtv the lower seals wings (top and bottom) and reinstall. rear main cap 80ft.lbs i believe, 35ft.lbs for the bearing brace. or just follow this tutorial with pics http://dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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