Question about Toyota RAV4

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2008 Toyota Rav4 Had a new Clutch but the biting point is still near the floor can you help

The biting point on the clutch peddle is near the floor so I had a new clutch fitted but Its still the same, to close to the Floor. have you any ideas.

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  • Expert
  • 60 Answers

Adjust the clutch cable if it can be.

Posted on Mar 26, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

emissionwiz
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SOURCE: 2000 cavalier clutch pedle goes to floor when pushed and stays there, clutch not working no pressure

You are going to have to replace the master and slave cylinders for the hydraulic clutch, the seals have failed in the slave, but from past experience they should always been replaced as a pair.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

  • 566 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch pedal low near floor, can the clutch be adjusted?

hi the clutch on accent is hydraulic operation so if pedal is very low on disengaging clutch ? you may have a problem with the hydraulics 1st thing to check is fluid level? this is the reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch but is seperaterated inside if fluid low? top up and bleed the slave cyl however if fluid low indicates a leak ? possibly slave cyl? if no loss of fluid ? then prob may be fault in the master cyl ? check fluid come back with any update please ps if this problem has just occured? check for leaks ?

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch Adjustment

You could try bleeding the slave cylinder. But it is very difficult and may or may not work. You may want to take it to an independent shop or back to the dealer. A special tool is needed inorder to depress the slave cylinder to properly bleed the possible air out of the system. It's a less expensive thing to try before replacing the clutch assy.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: 1987 944 clutch pedal stays on the floor

look, if the clutch pedal is to the floor, there are about 3 different things that could be wrong. First check brake fluid to make sure full, see if there is any leakage under steering wheel and below transmission. Next could be the slave cylinder, it could be faulty or not bled right. Last it could be the master cylinder. If when you bleed the slave cylinder and have no movement in the arm inside the transmission then most likely the master cylinder is broken. Look under the steering wheel and see if everything looks entact. Watch the movement of the pedal and see if movement looks normal and see if fully attached. Good luck. Check www.clarks-garage.com for any problem in which you want to fix yourself. Great free site.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: New clutch cable made gear change much worse.

Hi,

Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.

Hope this is helpful.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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1 Answer

Clutch peddle bites when you come from the floor about 3,4 inch


check and bleed hydraulic system
at that measurement the clutch has barely disengaged indicating either air or a faulty clutch master cylinder.

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This is a classic sign of master cylinder failure as the seals wear does the peddle when pump fast build up to something like normal if the answer is yea new master cylinder it's reasonably cheap, the bleed nipple is usually under the car at the rear of the slave cylinder it's very easy to bleed the system on your own with an automatic bleed pipe, from any motorist store or a more expensive kit depending on your pocket, you can make your own by purchasing a length of rubber tubing that fifts tight over the bleed nipple push an old bolt or a piece of round plastic or something of that nature that fits tight in the end of the tube then get a Stanley knife and put a slit a 10mm long just above were you have inserted the plugged up end of the tube, when completed connect the open end to the bleed nipple insert the blocked end into a jam jar or some other vessel to receive the old fluid when you bleed, turn the bleed screw one complete full turn then press the clutch peddle all the way down to the floor and back up again do this slowly a few times until your sure all the air or clean fluid comes out retighten and that's it you should be up and running trouble free, remember the tube should be rubber not soft plastic etc. or it will not close up on itself when bleeding, and will let air back into the system. good luck

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