Question about 2008 Jeep Patriot

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How do you reset a stering angle sensor

I just did a lot of front end work on my 2008 jeep patriot (rack both outer tie rod ends LF lower ball joint) I am sure that during the install of the rack the steering wheel was immobilized

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  • Jeep Master
  • 20,706 Answers

Did you read the FSM/
it covers all that, and more.
or at alldata.com
did you follow all steps, including the Match marking?

ill try to find it....

here is the page that tells you what went wrong.
A service replacement clockspring is shipped with the clockspring pre-centered and with a molded plastic locking pin installed.
This locking pin should not be removed until the steering wheel has been installed on the steering column. If the locking pin is removed before the steering wheel is installed, the clockspring centering procedure must be performed.
When a clockspring is installed into a vehicle without properly centering and locking the entire steering system, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) data does not agree with the true position of the steering system and causes the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) system to shut down.
This may also damage the clockspring without any immediate malfunction.
Unlike some other Chrysler vehicles, this SAS never requires calibration.
However, upon each new ignition ON cycle, the steering wheel must be rotated slightly to initialize the SAS.
Determining if the clockspring/SAS is centered is also possible electrically using the diagnostic scan tool.
Steering wheel position is displayed as ANGLE with a range of up to 900degrs.
Refer to the appropriate menu item on the diagnostic scan tool.
Before starting this procedure, be certain to turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position and that the entire steering system is locked or inhibited from rotation.

The clockspring may be centered and the rotor may be rotated freely once the steering wheel has been removed.
(at the least, read the rack R&R pages first)

Posted on Apr 27, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mas66
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 jeep wrangler 2.5 4wd

Needs someone to check for play in the items you have mentioned (though probably not the u-joints), plus the swaybar links, and shock absorbers. If you can get the vehicle jacked off the ground (with safety stands under it) you should be able to check most of these items with a suitable lever bar. Wobble the steering wheel side to side to check the tie rod ends, with the vehicle on the ground and one hand on the tie rod to feel for the clunking.

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 1168 Answers

SOURCE: what causes the front end to jump and wobble

Hello Jake.
Seen this a few times in my shop.
Check the steering damper/stabilizer.
If the fluid has leaked out it will allow a kind of harmonic to take place and it won't stop until you slow right down.
The damper is like a shock absorber and it takes out that harmonic.
Undo one end of it and push/pull on it. if you feel any free play at all....replace it.
Get a good quality one as you know how important it is now.
This should cure your problem if all else is good.
Take care.

KL

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Front end shake

your front brake rotors are probally warped...

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

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if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

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double posted, but not answered 2x.
back up one.
or read the FSM.

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Have to reset the angle sensor, I would guess

Have to check for codes & data with professional scanner,
in enhanced mode

If you changed the rack, it has to be aligned,the shop should
do what is necessary

A 5 year old vehicle should not need any of that work for years
---so why are those parts worn out?

You do both lower ball joints, not one side,like when you do a
wheel hub bearing, you do both sides

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Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do. There are - shocks -lower ball joints -upper ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -idler arm -pitman arm -center link -stabilizer links -stabilizer bars It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?

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Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

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2 Answers

Steering wheel movement


Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

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1 Answer

Front end shimmy @ 65-70 mph


I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.

To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;

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