Question about 1998 GMC Jimmy
My 98 gmc jimmy is knocking what can i do
There are several things that could cause a knock, ranging from a worn crankshaft bearing(s) to a worn water pump.
You can further pinpoint this knock by defining if it occurs occasionally, constantly, just at a specific RPM, or only under a load.
What kind of a knock is it? Hi-pitched or low-pitched?
A more detailed problem description would yield you a more specific/helpful answer.
Posted on Jan 02, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: TPS in a 1998 GMC Jimmy
the tps is ususally at the side of the throttle body opposite where the throttle cable / tv cable mount.
sometimes it won't start, run, or run erratically. there are ways of testing this unit (by output voltage) before you commit to buying a new one. to test it you will need a dvom (digital volt ohm meter).
just a note: straight from the book... "a broken or loose tps can cause intermitten burst of fuel from the injector and an unstable idle because the ecm thinks the throttle is moving."
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
SOURCE: 98 gmc jimmy front hub
1. Put the vehicle in gear, apply the parking brake and break loose the driveaxle/hub nut with a socket and large breaker bar.
2. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support is securely on lackstands. Remove the wheel. Remove the driveaxle/hub nut.
3. Unbolt the brake caliper and hang it out of the way with wire. Remove the brake disc.
4. On models with four wheel ABS, trace the electrical lead for the wheel speed sensor along the upper control arm, then forward along the frame rail and unplug the electrical connector.
5. Remove the hub assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts. Remove the brake disc shield and wheel speed sensor assembly and set aside.
6. Tap the hub assembly from side-to-side to break it loose from the steering knuckle. Pull the hub assembly off the end of the driveaxle. Wrap the end of the driveaxle with a rag to prevent damaging it. If the hub is stuck on the splines on the end of the driveaxle, use a puller to free it.
7. Installation is reverse of removal process. Be sure to lubricate the driveaxle splines with multi-purpose grease, and tighten all of the fasteners to the proper torque.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Hi: Sounds to me like you tried to start the vehicle with something disconnected in the security system. If this is the case the solution is simple. Put key in ignition and turn to the on position, leave on for EXACTLY 30 minutes... then take key out, wait 5 minutes then start vehicle. Hope this helps... please rate suggestion... ty
Posted on May 21, 2009
THE STEERING COLUMN (DO NOT ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL AFTER THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT IS REMOVE, YOU WILL BREAK THE SIR COIL), WINDSHIELD MOLDINGS, AND DASH HAVE TO BE REMOVED FIRST. UNDER THE HOOD THE BLOWER RESISTOR, R/H INNER FENDER WELL, HEATER HOSES TO THE HEATER CORE AND SEVERAL NUTS AND BOLTS HOLDING THE HEATER PLENUM TO THE FIRE WALL INCLUDING THE HIDDEN BOLT UNDER THE BLOWER RESISTOR IN THE EVAPORATOR CORE AREA. THEN FINALLY THE BOLTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE TRUCK HOLDING THE PLENUM TO THE FIREWALL.
NO DISRESPECT INTENDED BUT IF YOUR NOT A TALENTED MECHANIC I WOULD FIND ONE OR HIRE ONE THAT CAN DO THE JOB FOR YOU. THIS IS QUITE INVOLVED FOR A NOVICE.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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