Question about 1995 Ford Explorer
It sounds to me as though it is the master cylinder. You can try bleeding the master cylinder itself, just to see if you have pressure there. But if you cannot pump them up, I'm betting on a bad master cylinder. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Mar 25, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bleeding brakes
No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.
Posted on Sep 10, 2008
SOURCE: 1976 ford f100 pickup 2wd
The brake bias valve can cause your symptom.Are the outer part of the brake calipers able to slide in and out freely .Jack it up take a wheel off and get someone to push on the brake pedal while you check for correct movement.Lube the slides so it is easier for calipers to return.a chunck of 4x2 wood is useful if you find them too hard to move by hand
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!
Posted on May 15, 2009
You need to have the broken Bleeder screws replaced or the wheel cylinders replaced. You can't bleed the brakes by loosening the brake lines all it will do is bleed the brake lines.The bleeder screws allow the fluid to flow through the wheel cylinders or calipers flushing the air out.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks
Dec 25, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
May 18, 2012 | 2002 Oldsmobile Alero
Nov 21, 2011 | 1992 Chevrolet Corsica
Sep 06, 2011 | 2004 Ford Escape
Feb 17, 2011 | AMC Eagle Cars & Trucks
Dec 15, 2010 | 1992 Toyota Corolla
May 17, 2010 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 27, 2009 | 1992 Lincoln Mark VII
Jul 01, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer
91 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: