Rear seats are down wont pop back up

SOURCE: I have a 1997 Ford Escort. The rear seat belt is stuck

make sure that the rear seats are properly locked into rear catches as this can stop your seatbels from working if ok then sounds like your seatbelt is faulty req new seatbelt.

SOURCE: driver side second row seat will not fold down.

I had the same problem. The dealer wanted $400 to replace the latch. I didn't wnat to pay that much so I looked at it and found that the release strap was twisted and jammed in the mechanism. Here's how I fixed it.

I removed the screw from the lever and removed the lever. I pulled apart the plastic housing. It does not come apart all the way but enough to work on it. Pull the release strap that comes out of the back and pull it clear of the mechanism and straighten it out. slip the lever back on and the seat should fold. Fold it up all the way to make it easier to reassemble. Pull the lever back off and slip the release strap back into the slot and make sure it is not twisted or kinked. Snap the housing back together, put the lever back on, and screw it in. Test it and it should work fine. Hope this helps,

SOURCE: car seat belt stuck

there is mechanical lock on every seatbelt activated when you push the breaks find lock and realse it by hand

SOURCE: I put down my Ford escape's rear drivers side seat

Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

SOURCE: I have a 2003 Ford expedition Eddie bauer. Seat

The clicking noise sounds like your blend door actuator. Try turning your AC/Heat OFF and see if it stops (give it a minute to travel in position). The actuator is a common failure in the Expys, costs about $50 to replace. You will have to remove the right rear panel to replace it - a few screws and a couple of bolts (where the seat belt attaches).
As for the seat not working, not sure about this. I would make sure the wiring harness is hooked up and the fuse is not blown. See your owners manual for fuse location.