Question about 2000 Subaru Impreza
Hi , awesome site and thanks for sharing ur profesionalism ! I found you're site in my search to make sure i take the right steps with this most recent problem i have with an impreza p1 . The bolt that holds the cam shaft pulley had snapped in two, obviously causing the engine to die. I had the vehicle recovered to my nearest local garage. However....3 months ago i purchased the car, and on my trip to take it back to them to sort a notch/1st gear crunch the bottom end went on me. So anyway the car was left with them to rebuild the engine so obviously they dis assembled the part in question ( cam shaft pulley bolt) and re assembled. I was told to bed the new engine in softly for 1000 miles then have the engine oil changed..so i had this done at the same local garage mention before. And it was within the 1st 100 or so miles of this oil change that the bolt snapped on me. Please help me in taking the right steps here, cos i wouldnt at all be suprised if im expected to fit the bill. Also one important piece of information that is worrying me...is i never pushed for any paperwork giving me evidence of them guarantee'ing the work they'd done :/ oh also, the bolt quite clearly shows 2 different planes...one where it snapped and one really small one approx 1-2mm further up with a more blackish colour (suggesting a crack basically). That is the crux of my question, i hope u can help me. Thanks Marc
It may require a big bit of bluff here but it is generally accepted that all bolts under tension are replaced as a matter of course . Workshop manuals all say that big end bolts, main bolts, crank shaft pulley bolt, cam shaft bolts and head studs all should be replaced to avoid problems after reassembly. It amounts to wether the mechanic is professional and well trained or not . The shop / mechanic should have a parts and labour warranty for at least 30 days to cover this problem. Talk nicely but firmly and maybe you can come to an agreement. Check for local /state law on your entitlements before starting the discussion.. You could be surprised at where you stand
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yeah, i use royal purple, 5w-30 on my 05. i lose a fair amount of oil (2 big turbos). and also txcs99, are you sure it's the same motor? i thought they upgraded a little
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
The ticking lifter on the Loyale is a common problem. There's a small o-ring between the cam tower and the head that, after so many hundreds of thousands of miles, would "fail" (not to a dangerous point) and the lifters would be partially starved of oil. It's not THAT serious... they can go hundreds of thousands of more miles like that. If you replace that o-ring, replace it with a spring reinforced ring so it doesn't fail. Those can be found at wwwdotthepartsbindotcom. As for the Legacy... those early 2.5s were cruddy. I've seen alot of them throw rods, lock up WAY before they should have. Best bet would be to replace it with a slightly underpowered but bullet-proof early model Legacy EJ22 or go with a newer EJ25. I would just go with the 2.2L.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
@ 175K miles the Idea of Transaxel Output Carrier Bearings Should Be Considered. BUT What you Describe My Experience tells Me Wheel Bearing, It Being a All Wheel Drive Vehicle Makes it Very Difficult to Call This with Confidence as I Am unable to Roadtest it. Hope this Can Help To Lead you in the Right Direction
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
I would definently Replace the timeing chain before it breaks. because if it does break when its running it will cause catasrophic failure. such as bending valves and possibly breaking a piston. every so many miles your chain should be replaced as with the belts. it is a safty precaution. A little money spent now will save you a lot later.
hope this is what you were looking for.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
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