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If the electrical items are operating very slowly and the battery light is on,you may have a charging problem.Recheck voltage at battery positive terminal and at alternator output terminal with engine running,you should see around 14.5v at both.
Sounds like the new alternator is not charging the battery. Once the battery drops below a certain level the car can't keep its components (on board computer) running. The ignition is now running off the battery which is fading. Soon the car won't be running at all.
As already suggested, check belt and new alternator.
If you are meaning that the engine is running rough or inconsistently it may be because of a faulty battery not supplying consistent charge. This may also be because of a electrical short, alternator, or ignition issue.
Hi, first thing to do and if you know location of the fuse box take light tester and test each fuse may you find some fuses blew. change theme first. if you change the fuses and the the problem for each item you describe still on that mean damage went to the items you say.
Have you had the alternator checked yet. If it is not providing sufficient power when driving the battery is the only other power source and it will drain. However there should have been an alternator warning pop up.
If the alternator is checked and is fine you will need the auto electrician to run some tests to see where the abnormally high power draw is originating from assuming that the battery is otherwise good. (Battery power can be drained by faults in power window switches and faults with electric seat motors etc etc)
You also need to run some checks yourself first to ensure that items like glove box and trunk light switches are being activated to cut light power when closed.
Sure..you need to get a volt/amp tester to verify alternator strength. If that is OK then each one of your circuits has to be checked for too much electrical draw. It sounds like that is your problem because as you run the car the alternator takes care of your electrical needs; however the battery takes a hit each night if one or more of the circuits is drawing too much juice.
Sounds like your alternator is starting to seize up. Remove the belt and spin the pulley by hand. If you hear a light grinding sound or the pulley is stiff then the alternators bearings are worn. Take the alternator to an electrical repair shop for rebuilding. I usually pay around $50 as opposed to $100 or more from a parts store. Look up auto electrical repair in your Yellow pages. Older VW's are known for starter and alternator failures so finding a cheaper source for parts should help you save some money.
What initiated the need for jump starting? Is the alternator charging? Has the battery been checked?
To check the alternator, once the engine has been jumped and is running, remove one of the battery post connections. If the engine dies, the alternator is not charging the battery, and the symptoms you describe are the on-board computer going through low voltage spasms until sufficient electrical power to operate the engine / tranny is drained and the car dies.
If the car continues to run with no battery attached, the alternator is charging - - - and I would recommend removing the battery and having it checked and (if good) recharged to full capacity. I would also recommend having it charged even if the alternator is the problem just to delay the onset of the low voltage problems. The car should operate normally for a few miles before the battery drains too low after a full recharge, enabling you to get it to a shop for alternator service / replacement.
If you attempt replacing the alternator yourself, make sure the battery is disconnected prior to starting the job. Saves blowing up good stuff by accidental short.