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Lifter replacement 5.4L

How to replace the lifters

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I must mention that engines with the DOHC emblem had a problem with "Cam Phasers". These would rattle and knock very similar to a Diesel and the noise would fade at about 2000RPM.

This engine has 2 timing chains. Since the Camshafts are on top, the lifters are under the cam. You would need to remove the cam to access the lifters. You will need to keep the cam gear positioned or lose the mark. There are cheater tools which allow you to sneak the cam gear away from the head to change the Cam phasers.

The cam phasers can then be removed. This is perhaps as much as you need done. I retired before this style of engine was built, so I can not tell you if the Camshafts can slide forward to be removed once you remove the Phasers and gear. Otherwise you are looking at a full frontal disassembly, just the Cam Phasers alone required full frontal disassembly in the original Service Manual.

You can read more about this engine and find Videos on the Web. I have an Engineering print but an assembled engine may have clearance issues. Wish I could be of more help, but you can get quite a rattle from the Phaser issues. Don't blame the wrong part.

Posted on Mar 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Remove the centre or valley gasket/shield to expose the lifters and push rods. Re determine which lifter it is and turn the engine until that valve is closed, releasing most of the load on that push rod. Remove that rocker cover and loosen the nut/bolt in the centre of the rocker arm until you can release the push rod. Now here is where it gets tricky because as a matter of design the lifter rotates during operation to even the wear on the face of the lifter and cam. You can get a tool from a parts house or online that has 2 small jaws that you expand into the face of the lifter under the top groove and you can pull the offending lifter out. Its quite possible that after high mileage there is a burr on the lower end of the lifter face and you should not apply more than moderate force to extract the lifter. If you do you risk pulling the burr through the block bore and effectively reaming it oversize, this is not good and could affect the fit of the replacement.
I regret to say that if its tight to extract, the only solution is a block strip in which case get a kit of camshaft and lifters and replace all parts. If the lifter has failed due to sludge, which is a common problem on v8's, then its likely they could all soon be in trouble. It is possible on some lifter designs to disassemble the lifter, clean all the parts and replace it in the block but you have to weigh up the time taken to do the job plus parts as to whether its better to take the whole engine out for rebuild. If mileage is high, lots of short runs, cool conditions leading to low oil temp and sludge then consider a rebuild before bothering with one lifter.
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The way to eliminate the noise is of course replace the lifter/lifters use a cam lube on the lifters bottom and let the new lifters soak in an oil can overnight.
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Need instructions on how to change the lifters in my 1998 Chevy S10 2.2L


Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
  3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
  4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
  5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.

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Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...


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... then remove the anti-rotation brackets


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The lifters are located in bores in the engine block


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Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube
  1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.
  1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the cylinder head.
  3. Install the rocker arm cover.

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Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

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I just replaced all of my hydraulic lifters and no compression!


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