Question about 1996 Geo Metro

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Symptoms of a bad cv joint

My car is making a clunking noise underneath. when i turn & put on the gas is when i really notice it. it also seems like it comes from the the front of the car like underneath the drivers side and passenger side. i can only describe it as a clunking noise. help me please.

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  • hotrod10 Apr 01, 2014

    There's a good chance it is a bad CV joint, but the first thing to check is whether the lug nuts are tight. Been there, done that; replaced a half-shaft (axle) and still had the problem. The lug nuts were loose on the opposite side.

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  • Geo Master
  • 20,706 Answers

X10 , lug bolts,
or even cracked rims
or even bad wheel bearings
or even brake rotor bad. warped.
doing a hands on full inspection (man handling parts)
is the only way, guessing on the net is zero solution.
I can list maybe 25 ways to make noise. on car.
why do that.?

Posted on Apr 21, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: 94 Geo Prizm CV or driveaxle?

on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 653 Answers

SOURCE: 94 geo prizm cv joints gone bad.Was driving car

You didn't say if it was automatic or manual, but I think your problem is really your transmission. Put the wheels back on the ground, grab the shafts and try turning them. If they don't turn or move around excessively, you can safely eliminate the CV joints.

Posted on Feb 23, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 geo prizim passenger side axle and cv

there is a snap ring all you have to do is pull hard

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

gandergmm
  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 geo metro, passenger side half shaft (CV

i use a 3 arm puller to force the shaft out of the hub spline (do not hammer on the cv shaft at all, you will destroy it), and either a pickle fork or a specialy designed ball joint puller to seperate the balljoint from the knuckle. if you dont have a special puller and need to save the balljoint. try using a 6 or 8 foot steel bar to pry down on the lower control arm while another person strikes the knuckle at the balljoint location. note pin retainer type balljoints have a small slot which can be spread open alittle with a cold cut chisel or larg screw driver once the cv shaft is out of the way

Posted on May 28, 2010

jturcotte
  • 7782 Answers

SOURCE: When driving at low speeds and making a turn,

Your CV joint is worn out. Check the cost of an axle--usually less than $100. The labor is about 2-3 hours on a lift.

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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I just asked this question a minute ago but I want to clarify a little more. Got a buddy of mine who is having a car issue and was hoping you guys could help out. We are wondering if bad CV joints can lead...


Much of the symptoms you describe sound like a CV joint. I would take it to the dealer and insist that it be fixed... What is bothering me though is under normal operating conditions, CV joints and boots are engineered to last upwards of 150,000 miles. Some go the distance, but a lot reach the end of the road far short of their design life. According to one major aftermarket supplier of replacement axle shafts, CV joint shafts are typically being replaced at anywhere from 70,000 miles to 130,000 miles.

Read this and see if you agree...
SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:

  • Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.
  • A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.
  • A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.
  • A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.
  • A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.

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