Question about 1999 Chevrolet Venture

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Fuel pump wint run

I have replaced the fuel pump, relay and fuse. The engine cranks but there is no fuel getting to the engine. There is no pump noise when the key is turned to the on position.

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  • Chevrolet Expert
  • 495 Answers

Did you change the harness end at the pump?

Posted on May 08, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 371 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 blazer 4.3 hard to start (fuel problem)

Do you have the fuel tester hooked the in the overgrown air valve on the fuel rail in the back of the engine? Or do you have the fuel line unhooked in the back and hooked to the pressure pump? You want the fuel pressure to be in that 60 lb range so if you are hooked into the pressure valve on the fuel rail allowing fuel to go through, then I am betting it is the fuel pressure regulator. To get to that, you have to take the throttle body off and take the plastic plenum that covers the injector packs. On the back of the mount where your six pack of injectors are sits the pressure regulator. If it is faulty then it is dumping fuel instead of holding the pressure like it should.
Get a Chilton or Clymer manual and it shows you in pretty good detail how to fix it. I've done it to my 98 S10 with the same engine.

If you unhooked the fuel line so you are losing pressure from the line back to the pump then I would say your pump is letting fuel back to the tank when it shuts off. My money is on the first possibility though.

Good luck

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: tied to solve problem why 1996 chevy Blazer won't start

They should be on seperate circuits. Tyour key on and ck to see if you have any fuel flow. Fuel pumps in tanks do **** out. chk to see if you have any fuel flow by loosening a fluel line. No fuel, no pump. good luck

Posted on May 17, 2009

matney68
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 cavalier 2.2L DOHC.

I hate to say it but you need to find out if the ECM is communicating with any other modules.You should see if you can find a independent service place that has a tech 2. A scan tool that is not a tech 2 may be helpful but a tech 2 would help you pin point things quicker

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 1382 Answers

SOURCE: "Cranks, but won't start". Replaced fuel pump, CKP, ICM & nothing

If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.


1) To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. If it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.

2)Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.

3)Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine..

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

mrjfisher
  • 141 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 chevy cavalier- stopped running going down

Sounds Like you have a defected pump. Or the wires to it may have gotten pinched. The fuse is showing you an over load. DUE TO FIRE !!!
( Don't use a over size fuse it can start a fire! )
You are going to need to start by dropping the tank. Check all wires around the tank. You are looking for bare wires. Then remove fuel pump check all wires going in to tank & wires in the tank. Now with fuel pump out check the wires on the fuel pump.
Now you that you have checked the wire and all are were good take the fuel pump back and tell them what is going on. They should test it.

Posted on May 31, 2010

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Have you checked the fuel pump relay to see if it is sending power to the pump ? The computer grounds the relay when the computer "sees" oil pressure or engine RPM.

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The oil pressure sensor only keeps the pump running after the vehicle is started. If you turn key to on, the computer should signal to the fuel pump relay, turning the pump on for a couple of seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Then the computer signal stops. When the key is turned to start-cranking the engine- the computer again energizes the fuel pump relay, keeping the pump running until the engine starts.
If you have a voltmeter or test light, pull the relay out and check the relay terminals. One should be hot at all times-the power feed for the pump. The computer signal will be on the coil side of the relay-will have power for 2 or 3 seconds after key is turned to on. Or it will have a constant signal when the engine is cranking. If you can find both hot terminals at the relay, then start looking for a bad wire from relay to pump, or a bad ground for the pump, or a bad ground for the relay's coil side. Post back if unclear or other questions. When you pull the relay out, the diagram for it will be on the side of the relay-telling you which is the power feed and the terminal to the pump, and the coil side of relay, both the coil power side and the coil ground terminal.

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Either the fuel pump is not working, or the filter is totally blocked.
The fuel pump circuit needs checked to see if it's a wiring problem or a failed fuel pump. There will be (probably) a fuel pump fuse in your fuse block, and a fuel pump relay under the hood.
If you check the fuel pump wire for power at the gas tank connector while the engine is cranking over, and there is power there, and the ground for the pump is good, then the pump is not working and will have to be replaced. If you do not have power when cranking, the wiring at the fuel pump relay will have to be checked. Simple relay- has a power feed for the pump at one relay terminal (it is hot at all times), and a fuel pump wire to pump on another terminal (the power out for relay). When relay coil side is energized from a signal from computer, the relay contacts close and power is sent to the pump. The other relay terminal is a ground for the coil side of relay. Pull the relay out and you will see the diagram etched on it. If there is a fifth terminal, that could be a pump prime terminal, or a way to keep the pump running when engine is running through the oil pressure switch. But when cranking the engine, the computer will signal the relay to send power to the pump.

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Replaced fuel tank and pump and now car won't start.


no engine stated.
details are based on that..
so is it still the old pump there,
this is very simple
using a volt meter. (the pump has 2 wires, measure across those)
back probe that connector to the pump. 2 pins.

12vdc cranked, if you have 12vdc cranked
but fuel pressure is 0 the pump is gone
no pump runs on 0v, or 6v, its 12vdc there,
i can not understand those fues tests
if the voltage fails to the pump it can be
the power wire or ground wire failing .
do all tests connected, or the readings will be useless.
connected is live testing, under full real conditions
and win. every time.
if ground is tested and rises to 12vdc cranked, ground is bad.
only Ohms laws here,a simple equation.

not sure why your float fails. my guess its bad.
and easy test using ohms, disconnected.
that is another problem.

ill look at your fuse, pretend V6 engine.

the service manual shows
f10 fuse is fuel pump
12vdc both side cranking is a GOOD FUSE.
note all words above.
F10 gets all power from pump relay,
so if you dont crank the relay can be off line
an F10 will be dead.
(the schematic is clear)

here is a facts on all cars, next (pure software in PCM )
  1. pump only runs 3 seconds key on, ,
  2. pump never runs, if not cranked.
  3. run cranked and all run if engine stays running.

see? and varies by year, engine, and even ECU upgrades
so a SAVVY mech always cranks to do tests.
that means its a 2 man job. sorry but that is a reality of working any car until you learn what yours does.
warning have a care here that changes rule 1 to 2, below 20F out door temps, (fun no?)

recap
crank and measure like this.
the pump has 2 wires, red hot, black ground
meter across, pins 1 to2, red back is 12vdc cranked
meter black tests lead (volts) to body perfect metal ground
and meter red lead to pin1 red shows, 12vdc cranked
12vdc means 10 to 12vdc cranked, (battery does that)
then move red test lead to pin 2, black
cranked, 0v, if see 1 volt or ore the ground called.B26 is bad.
if the pump has 12vdc on it, you hear it,
do not run it dry its fuel cooled and fuel lubricated or you wreck it.
if it is heard to run you then see fuel spec fuel pressures.
or its bad. (30psi?)



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GOOD LUCK!

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