Question about Ford Thunderbird
My 1997 Thunderbird will crank, but will not start. There is no power to the spark plugs, ignition wires nor ignition coils. None to car will not fire which means no power to the spark plugs. Fuel pump and relays were checked and found to be working.
What codes do you have? Has the inginition starter switch been replaced, they recalled them and I think your car falls under the recall. This is the switch down on the base of the steering column that the key cylinder operated via long steel rod.
Posted on Mar 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1995 camry has no ignition fire
I think for sure that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. This can happen if your water pump, or your idler pulley, which are driven by the timing belt, "locks up" for a second. Best advice: replace the timing belt (you should not "reuse" it, as once it slips a tooth, that tooth is now weakend. Also, check the feel of the water pump impeller-gear...if it feels gritty or does not spin freely, replace the water pump while you are in there. It's not much more work. Also check the IDLER pulley for the same feel. If it feels bad/does not spin free, replace it. One or the other caused your problem.
Let me know how it turen out.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
SOURCE: no spark on a 1996 vw jetta
With a volt meter,check for positive 12V on the coil.
post to body metal ground when the KEY is at on position.
Check alarm for ignition and/or start cut off.
Bad relay on alarm cut off (Bosch type relay)
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
funny thing is I have a 2002 GTI with the exact same problem. have spent the last three days at work trying to figure things out.. best of luckn email me if you figure anything out. Beattie411@gmail.com
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
SOURCE: my honda oddessey 1995, my
Hi, since you've replaced everything else, about the only thing left is the crankshaft position sensor. This is the sensor the computer uses to time the spark signals. Because this sensor is expensive, I recommend you test it first to verify it's bad before replacing. I have pasted test procedures below as well as replacement procedure in case it fails the tests. You will need an ohmmeter for the test. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can buy one for as little as $10, or maybe you can borrow one. You will also need a timing light if you replace the sensor. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa. Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models 7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below. Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley. Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)
TESTING CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models
CRV models: The blue and white wires. The resistance should be 300-700 ohms. 1995 Odyssey models: The blue/green and blue/yellow wires. The resistance should be 700-1,300 ohms.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CRV and 1995 Odyssey Models
ADJUSTMENT CRV and 4-Cylinder Odyssey Models
If equipped with an automatic transaxle, place the shifter in Park or Neutral. If equipped with a manual transaxle place the shifter in Neutral. Make sure to apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
Odyssey models with 4-cylinder engines: centrally located on the passenger side, under the dash. The connector has two wires; one is brown with a black tracer, and the other wire is red.
See Figures 1 and 2
2.2L/2.3L Odyssey 2.2L models: 13-17° at 650-750 rpm
Fig. Fig. 2: The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor rotor looks like a small gear in the lower distributor housing- CRV and 1995 Odyssey models
7. Check and reset the ignition timing as outlined below.
Fig. Fig. 1: The inductive lead of the timing light is placed around the No. 1 spark plug wire; and the light is aimed toward the marks on the crankshaft pulley.
Fig. Fig. 2: The red ignition timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is lined up with the pointer. The two small notches on either side of the red colored notch represent the plus (+) or minus (-) 2° increments. The white notch to the far right is Top Dead Center (TDC)
Posted on Apr 03, 2011
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When the car stops driving,
at that time check the starter, if its got very hot, then this can be starter
over heating issue. There are many other things to be checked.
Try this troubleshooting:
----If your engine cranks normally but
will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because
it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:
A bad pickup inside the distributor, a stripped distributor drive gear (common
problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires
from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM. 2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP)
sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM. 3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .
A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the
spark to short to ground). 5) Faulty ignition
can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as
your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark
plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then
insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot),
or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and
look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the
plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition
OR---If your engine
has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove
one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug
tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug
tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark
indicates an ignition problem. Possibilities to be checked in this problem are
as follows:-- If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil
positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is
on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or
primary wiring circuit).But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in
that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition
wiring circuit). But if the coil has
voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to
the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon
tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor. ------A car that cranks over
but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken
timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are
related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the
car. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no
spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark
plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no
voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced.
If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The
starter gets power from battery to start the car. If the starter is faulty then
it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in
the car. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. Also
check and confirm that fuel pump is functioning properly and the fuel filter is
not clogged. One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem
is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start
the car. If the car starts momentarily, then there's a good chance the fuel
pump is not working or the car is out of gas. You can also listen for the fuel
pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative
fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is
power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a
bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure
gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in
several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the
injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start.---------- This
troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.
Jan 07, 2011 | 1997 Mazda 626
Sep 21, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Camaro
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