Question about Lincoln Navigator
Batt go dead batt is new.alt is good.lights are off what kills the batt
How often do you use it if it isnt a daily driver it could be a clock etc. but if its a daily driver then chances are you have a bad wire the easiest but not so quick is to pull your fuses and hook up a voltage tester to the battery and one by one start to put the fuses back in and watch the tester to see what one is drawing the power other than clock then when you find it you will have to trace the wire checking for breaks cracks corrosion etc.
Posted on Dec 03, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: charging problem 1991 volvo 240
14.6 means your voltage regulator or diode is suspect Despite having new alternator .Ive cross refrenced your smptoms in the haynes workshop manual and alternator is your only end answer.The haynes test is to start vehicle with multi meter connected across the battery terminals,increase the engine speed until the reading remains steady should be approximately 12 to 13v and no more than 14v.switch on as many accessories as possible(headlights heater blower radio etc)check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14v.If the regulated voltage is not as stated then alternator is to be repaired/replaced.Good luck with it and a happy new year.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
SOURCE: Dead Batt (poss. Alternator?)
Likely you did this already but check fuses in power distribution box near battery (likely two 60a fuses for alt in there). Additionally, was alternator regulator tested or was alt "full fielded" for test. (regulator failure will prevent power made at alt from reaching the battery). Also, check continuity of leads going to alternator to make sure they're OK.
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
Since alot of people don't have all kinds of special tools, This is a way you can narrow it down and then go from there. Make sure all lights and power is turned off in the vehicle including the light under the hood if there is one.. disconnect the negative battery cable off the battery. take a test light and connect the aligator clip part of the test light to the part of the cable that connects to the battery. Then take the "pointy" part of the test light and touch it to the negative battery terminal. if it lights up, that means you have a draw. the brighter the light the bigger the draw is. Now keep in mind that if you have a clock or delayed interior lights it will show a draw. If you do have a pretty bright light and want to see the area that the draw is coming from begin by taking one fuse out at a time. If the light goes out or at least dims down alot, then you now know which circuit the draw is coming from. Now from there once you find which fuse it is then comes the task of finding out what that fuse covers and you can work on it from there. At this point you will have an idea of the area that is pulling power from your battery and may need to get a wiring diagram to locate where the draw is coming from. Worst case would be to pull that fuse out everytime you stop the car so it doesn't drain the battery while sitting until you can make the repair. I hope you were able to understand as sometimes I have a hard time explaining things. I hope this helps you narrow down your problem and good luck.
Posted on Mar 27, 2011
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SOURCE: 2001 F350 Charging problems
Replace seilnoid / if on top of starter as one unit replace the unit before that though tap.with hammerwhile trying to start it if fires up then it's bad not the battery when threw same thing spent slot of time and money just to figure it out tap starter while trying to start should fire up then replace check that wires are tight
Posted on Feb 21, 2013
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