Question about 1995 Isuzu Rodeo
It like chokes itself out but when we tap on the relay box it will start but run extremely high, idle at 2000 rpm what the hell is going on with it I need someone who knows these LS 4x4
My big horn losers charge put volt meter on battery reading below 14 volts has new battery some charge's and then losers charge please help cheers A J
Posted on Aug 19, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Transmission fluids
If you have the 4 speed 4L30-E..........9.2 quarts (automatic)
And, if you have a manual:
Manual Transmission, W/ BW 5-SPD..........4.4 pints
Manual Transmission, W/O BW 5-SPD..........6.3 pints
Type of fluid is dextron or mercon III, you have to pump it in from the bottom.
Please don't forget to rate!!!!
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 isuzu rodeo won't start
the clutch switch is located on the clutch pedal support, if you put your hand on the clutch pedal run your hand up and the switch will be at the top. now if you are going to replace this switch I would try to adjust the switch first the amount of time it takes and this would confirm that it's the switch. ensure clutch pedal is fully returned, disconnect the electrical connector from the switch. loosen lock nut and tighten clutch switch by hand until switch is firmly against clutch lever. back the switch out 1/2 turn, the switch plunger should extend .02-.06" (.5-1.5 mm).
hope this helps
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
SOURCE: timing belt alignment
A factory service manual would help, but I'm assuming that if you had one, you probably wouldn't be on this site.
To set the timing, you need to first perform the obvious: remove the accessory drive belts, cam pulley covers, and engine fan and hub. Next you'll need to rotate the engine by hand until the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft are aligned with their corresponding stationary marks. The 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover is the timing mark for the crankshaft pulley. There is a mark (small, vertical formed indentation) for the left camshaft pulley on the backing plate behind the pulley near the 1 o` clock position. The same mark exists for the right camshaft pulley only it is on the backing plate near the 8 o`clock position (making it difficult to see). With the crankshaft placed at the zero mark, you can observed where the timing discrepancy exists.
(TIP: Once the right camshaft timing is properly lined up, etch an additional mark on the pulley's face and the backing plate at the 12 o`clock position. This will make it easier to align the pulley for furture adjustments and repairs)
To set the timing correctly, move the crankshaft pulley to 12 deg. BTDC. Being careful to not disturb the position of the crankshaft once it has been moved to that position, remove the crankshaft pulley, lower timing belt cover, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt. Compress the timing belt tensioner and if the original ring pin isn't available to retain the tensioner a small allen wrench can be used to achieve the same results. Line up both camshaft marks and reinstall the timing belt and timing belt tensioner (do not remove the timing belt tensioner tool used to maintain the tensioner piston in a compressed position). When installing the timing belt, be sure to allow the least amount of slack to exisit between the left camshaft pulley and the crankshaft sprocket, but without moving the pulleys.
Next, remove the timing belt tensioner piston retention tool and mount the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley (without fully installing them). Rotate the crankshaft pulley to the 0 deg. mark. If done correctly, moving the crankshaft pulley from 12 deg. BTDC to 0 deg. will remove all remaining slack from the timing belt assembly and the camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulleys will be lined up with their corresponding marks. Once proper timing has been achieved, install all removed parts.
(Another TIP: I hope it's not necessary, but in case it is, I'll remind you that proper torque of all bolts are necessary as this is an all aluminum engine. Stripping out bolts holes due to over-tightening bolts occurs very easily and become very annoying to deal with [e.g. alternator belts not being able to be tightened completely and constantly squealing every few days, etc.])
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
This has to do with the Auto's Computer system and should ONLY be done by a Factory Rep who knows what he/she are doing. not a home mechanic chore!!
Posted on Jul 16, 2010
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