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Ford 2000 5.4 L F-150. A/T Circuit,4R70W. No Start. No Crank.

It is not the following. Battery ,cables, grounds ,Ignition switch ,DTR , fuses anywhere,starter fender mounted , or relay. There is a constant 4.5vdc to S1 terminal when tested to -bty term in circuit. When battery negative terminal removed from the path, there is 12vdc. In off, key on, key start,& start crank. PATS working. No codes. There is not a total open in circuit. What might I try next?

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johncaman
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SOURCE: 1991 Nissan 240SX starter will not turn!

If you've applied 12VDC to the solenoid and it does nothing, not even click, then the solenoid is toast!

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

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SOURCE: 1989 Honda Accord won't crank - starter good - what next?

check powers out of the ignition switch big in big out usually first place to start

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

airjer995
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SOURCE: 94 explorer no crank but starts when bridged at relay. changed bat. starter, relay, ignition coil/ switch/ and ignition, terminals, ground cable, fuse, black relayZ?????

Check for power on the red with light blue wire at the ignition switch with the key in the crank position. If there is no power make sure there is power on the yellow wire at the ignition switch. Also check to make sure the key is making the full turn to the crank position. If there is power than check for power on the Pink wire at the neutral safety switch on the side of the automatic transmission. If there is not power I need to know if you have the anti-theft system or not. If there is power than check for power out of the neutral safety switch on the red with light blue wire. If there is power on that wire pull the starter relay and check to see if two pins are grounded all the time. One of the other two pins that are not grounded should have power all the time. The other pin should have power when the key is in the crank position. That should get you started. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!

Posted on Jan 11, 2012

Testimonial: "Thank you Jeremy, ill check the wires in the morning...and yes there is an anti-theft system...i also disengaged it by pulling the white connector in the rear wheel well...the one furthest from the back of the vehicle...do i need to pull both white connecters or just the one?"

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SOURCE: Ford F-150 2000 5.4L No Crank No Start



Ok it seems you isolated and checked the usual suspects and some that I wouldn't have looked at except one. Did you check the neutral safety switch and Alignment on your gears for the gearshift lever. If it is not aligned properly it may not be hitting the neutral safety switch when in neutral and park. Also if the switch has failed. It may not be allowing your system to start when you move the key to the start position. I'm also wondering if this model has a fusable link in the starter cable but you say that you've isolated and tested both the starter and the relay. So I would really suspect that neutral safety switch. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

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1994 Dodge Ram Van B250 Check Engine light doesn't come on, van won't crank, won't start....nothing when key is turned on It is not battery......buzzer and such does come on when key is turned on


I know you said it isn't the battery, forgive me, be sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Use a test lite and follow battery voltage. Battery ground is important also.
The battery voltage may lead to junction block--fusible links--fuse box?
At the fuse-box, pick any component that has a fuse, check fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with key on, test both ways.
If the starter motor won't crank, check voltage and ground for the starter motor. Usually two voltage circuits at the starter motor, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and is probably wired through the clutch or neutral switch then through the starter relay, where applicable, to the starter motor. The starter motor usually grounds through the engine block, so, battery negative connection is important.
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Is this a no crank, no start issue? Or is it a crank, but no start issue? If no crank no start, when turning the ignition key to the start position, and you get no cranking, then you have a couple possibilities...
bad starter, bad solenoid at starter, or bad Battery connections.
It could even be a bad positive battery cable. Bad battery terminal connections, are the most common result of a no crank no start issue. Check the terminals, clean them, clean them, and did I say clean them?

check this... Turn the key to the on position just in front of the start position. Then turn the lights on, are your headlights on. If they are on, that means you' are getting power through the ignition system. So ignition switch is not problem.
There is also a circuit breaker in the under the dash fuse box. It runs your power for the ignition system. It's a small half inch by 1 inch? Silver block. Try replacing that?

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Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.

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Ford F-150 2000 5.4L No Crank No Start




Ok it seems you isolated and checked the usual suspects and some that I wouldn't have looked at except one. Did you check the neutral safety switch and Alignment on your gears for the gearshift lever. If it is not aligned properly it may not be hitting the neutral safety switch when in neutral and park. Also if the switch has failed. It may not be allowing your system to start when you move the key to the start position. I'm also wondering if this model has a fusable link in the starter cable but you say that you've isolated and tested both the starter and the relay. So I would really suspect that neutral safety switch. Hope this helps.

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If no warning lights or gauges work with key in on position, power is either not getting to switch (bad maxi-fuse or fuse link, or bad battery connections-clean and tighten, recheck)-or the switch itself is not sending power out. Check if battery is charged up. Check all connections and grounds for loose, poor connections.
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