Question about Mazda B-Series Truck
B2500 2005. While driving on the highway, the 4*4 is engageing voluntarily. It happens sometimes, with no apparent cause. What is the problem?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
more than like have a broken axle shaft, un hook the rear drive shaft and put it in 4wd if it wont move then you know you got a broken axle shaft or spider gears broke in the pumpkin
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
lock it in and jack up and see which part isnt locked
transfer, front end
front end uses vacuum actuater
and transfer uses a electric motor
front driveshaft shouldnt turn when in park and front wheels off the ground
front wheels shouldnt turn with one wheel up
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
A VERY COMMON FAULT!
Kia us a dim design that works on air, so the light on the dash may light up green...mine does...but no 4x4.
Test one, look inside the engine bay,(2Litre petrol) on your left hand side, to the left of the actual engine is the solenoid device that "switches on" the vacuum to the front hubs. This is easier that you would think. If you look at the left side of the engine, there are two pipes coming out (left side) one is thick (break system. DONT touch) one is thinner and soft rubber. Follow this tube, it goes into a small black cannister which is a resvoir and one way valve...the tube then outputs into another device (solenoid) which has 2 wires on. The tube then splits under this in two. The test is simple, with the engine running, and 4 wheel drive engaged pull the tube apart after the solenoid. Put your finger there you should feel a nice strong ****. If it does **** put it back on. If it does not **** it needs to be removed and cleaned. This is simple to unbolt and all you do is pull the rubber bung of the bottom, and the two tubes and spray break cleaner inside. reassamble until you get to feel the vaccum.
test 2 Now look behind each wheel, you will see a thick hose wrapped in a spring, this is the break system, do not touch this. There is a thinner flexible hose attached behind the wheel, you will notice that these have no securing system just push fit. Remove each of the in turn and test for vacuum.
Leaks here are common and easy to fix.
The bad news if you have vacuum, and still no 4 wheel drive one or both front wheel hubs has a leak, and the bad news is, it needs a garage to fix it, and to replace the seal a £5 part you have to ruin a £100 part.
Test the vaccum, pray. Otherwise ask, doe you really need to spend £250 to sort this?
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
Hahahaha!... Seriously....!?!?! First off don't try to use a scan tool. The 4WD system isn't integrated into the OBD system. You won't get any codes related to 4WD.
Most likely the problem is defective shift solenoids. There are two shift solenoids which control the engagement and disengagement of the 4WD (locking the front axle gear into the the driveshaft input). These solenoids are located on the front axle. They have their own small skid plate. One is blue, and one is gray. One controls engagement, and one controls disengagement. One is a normally closed electrically controlled vacuum solenoid, and one is a normally open electrically controlled vacuum solenoid.
I'm not blindly recommending changing these, but usually one of these are the culprit of the problems you described. I'm even more confident in those being the problem due to your explanation of the the intermittent problems. At any rate test first.
The other components of the 4WD system are the vacuum lines and the actuator which is also located on the front axle and covered by the forementioned small skidplate. Moderate to serious rock-involved off-roading with a stock suspension usually results in this component being damaged.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
SOURCE: four wheel drive will not engage
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 1994 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME AND
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED
Obtain the following GM part numbers:
(1) 26060073 Actuator
(1) 88959465 Harness/Spacer Kit
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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