Question about 1997 Land Rover Range Rover
Front right door lock
It always seems to be the front right door lock. Hmmm. The electric lock actuator is one of the few items that ate truly not "user servicable" in my opinion. The works that trigger the mechanics of the doorlocks are encased in one solid unit, (door lock actuator) and must be replaced with same. In some rare instances there can be interference from dirt, debris, etc but if there is little more than a buzz if anything coming from inside the door its likely to be the actuator. If you here the customary clunk but no action on the lock popping up it may be worth a look inside the door. The panel removal is moderately simple. The tweeter cover comes off first then the screw on the underside of the door pull/armrest, one screw behind the door handle, then just a matter of popping the push fasteners around the edge of the panel with a putty knife or there is actually a tool you can purchase at larefet automotive suppliers. The rest is straight forward. If you have more specific questions feel free to repost and ill do my best to help you further. Care and patience are the keys here, good luck.
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i have a range rover
Almost certainly blend motor failure. The heater matrix has several blend motors which divert hot or cold air the vents you select. The problem is, the buggers fail. Their £200 each and a nightmare to get to. Unless you actually want to remove your entire dash i suggest you put up with it. I understand a garage will charge about £1500.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
The last one of these I saw the filter was in the tank.This is after checking the manual that said it was in the RH rear wheel arch.
Posted on May 16, 2009
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
does the roof lamp work? if not then means your Vehicle in transport mode. to have it in normal mode you need to take it to a dealer or something equivalent to have the job done by approved diag. machine
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
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