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Ford F-150 2000 5.4L No Crank No Start

Problem list Checked follows as good. Battery , cables load tested , connections , starter relay and starter functions when isolated tested starting engine, replaced ignition switch and DTR, checked relays and fuses, PATS working verified with two separate keys. There is a constant 4.5 vdc in off postion, on postion, and battery crank postion. When removing the negative terminal there is 12vdc in the same positions when the S1 or signal terminal is read from the battery negative to communications wire that feeds the starter relay. What other possibilities could be suspect.

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  • Charles Karcher Mar 24, 2014

    Thank you, yes, the DTR or Digital Transmission Relay or Neutral Safety Switch is alright. I suspected linkage, however, that was not an option. We did ,howver, replaced the DTR or switch. The voltage in and out was still. 4.5 volts. This Sunday afternoon we revisted the wiring as a suspect. After a obtaining a ignition drawing with the circuitry and a drawing for the model 70 transmision. Then starting with the circuit from the ignition switch leading to fuse 21 underneath the left side dash. The last fuse in the third row at the bottom. The circut is feed with a red/lt bl wire 18 c243 before the line side of the fuse # 21 15 A. On the load side side Whtie/Pink striped wire 29 c243 leading to the A/T automatic transmission is lead to central juntion box 19 C243 Dr Blu/Org to the Digital Transmission Range Sensor ( left side of 14 bolt transmission). The voltage was found to be 4.5 volts after the #21 fuse link. Prior to it 12volts when turning the key to Start/crank. We removed the fuse. AT the line side or #29 pin of the fuse thewire was reseated. Although the existing fuse read good we replaced it with a tested new fuse. Turned on thr ignition and cranked it with the engine turning over the motor started. The shortcoming or 4.5 volts being read to S1 at the relay now read 12volts. So. Remember in that circuit when troubleshooting. We earlier feed the relay at S1 with a jumper to the positive battery terminal. The starter cranked. With the ignition on and the negative battery terminal replaced and the ignition on. We jumped cranked and started the motor to run. It appears we may have not needed a DTRS or neutral safety switch. And yes we checked both fuses leading from the battery before figuring a way to simplify. I hope anyone can apply the jumper method at the starter relay on the fender. It may save you a lot of testing at that end of the circuit. As far as all the other components before therelay. That fuse block if it proves out can save you a lot of assumptions before the ignition switch. Leaving only the key cylinder and the PATS antitheft system. I suggest close attention be paid to the dash indicators. Should the anti-theft be blinking at a constant pulse. That can mean a key is worn out or the cylinder may need replacement. If you can not hear the injector pumps turn on when turning on when in run. You may have to swap the relays in the fuse compartment under the hood to easily verify that overlooked possibility. Remember that is when the key is in the run postion not crank as was with our no start nocrank. I want to thank everyone for their suggestions and imput. I really wanted to share a logical conclusion in layman like words. SO I Hope THIS HELPS. Because YOU HELPED OTHERS. Pass it on and move it forward. Good day.

  • Charles Karcher Jan 17, 2015

    The conclusion to this probem was a fuse placed ito an empty comprtent onbay away from the proper link within the copmpartment fuse box. Therefore concuding4.5vdc to the link. Any component down stream to the Digital transmission module when out of park will have proven irregularity with the lights and associated functions in the down stream wiring. By checking each individual fuse in both the outside and inside buss compartments. The error was found by identyfying each numbered position of each fuse.

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Ok it seems you isolated and checked the usual suspects and some that I wouldn't have looked at except one. Did you check the neutral safety switch and Alignment on your gears for the gearshift lever. If it is not aligned properly it may not be hitting the neutral safety switch when in neutral and park. Also if the switch has failed. It may not be allowing your system to start when you move the key to the start position. I'm also wondering if this model has a fusable link in the starter cable but you say that you've isolated and tested both the starter and the relay. So I would really suspect that neutral safety switch. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

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