Question about BMW X3 Series

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Clunking noise from back end bmw x3

When driving slowly or turning around a corner a clunk happens at the rear end its not there all the time only when slowing down or turning

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I think this is a rear drive car so the boot might be going inspect the rear boot for grease leaks near the tire

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: CLUNK IN REAR

There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: when turning steering wheel - either way, clunking sound.

Sounds like you have a bad CV joint, this will make a clunking or clicking noise like you described only when turning, and varies with vehicle speed.

Have it repaired before it breaks and leaves you stranded, or damages anything else.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: clunking popping noise from rear end when tires

the gears in your rear end are probably chipped and broke or need shims

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

  • 154 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Clunking when jeep starts moving in drive.

may be the gears in the rear end or check your motor mounts, ive had the noise and it was motor mounts

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 equinox devolped a clunking

Not likely more common for sway bar links. The upper and lower portion of the links become loose and cause a clunking noise turning or over bumps. They are also known for the lower intermediate steering shaft. This is more common and noticeable just turning especially in parking lot maneuvers (not going over bumps).

Posted on Feb 26, 2011

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2 Answers

Bmw x3 clunking on rear end


This problem is usually caused by the struts strut towers or it's a linkage for the sway bar this happens a lot from pot holes and hard bumps in the road check entire assembly for rusted holes or broken spots on the parts but the shocks are more in likely bad

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Chirping and cv/ clunking noise from rear tyres


be looking u8nder the vehicle at the rear drive axles see if one of the cv joints is possibly broken..if the vehicle is off the ground on a lift..you can rotate the wheels and see the broken axle..

Dec 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Clunking noise when turning steering wheel going slow around corner


A lot of these Chrysler Town and Country vans had issues with the front stabilizer bar end links, usually you wont feel them move if you try to move them by hand, but they will make an awful noise clunk noise when turning or going over bumps slowly, i would suggest replacing the end links and that should take car of your clunking issue. Also the front lower control arm bushings separate as well and can cause this noise as well.... but i would replace the end links as a first step and go from there.... Hope this helps..

Sep 27, 2012 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

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Loud Clunking when jeep starts moving in drive.


may be the gears in the rear end or check your motor mounts, ive had the noise and it was motor mounts

Dec 06, 2009 | Jeep CJ7 Cars & Trucks

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I have clunk noises coming from the differential as the car is coming to a stop. There seems to be too much play in the unit. The transmission tail shaft and bushing have been replaced and the ring and...


NAW, sounds like you need the updated slip yoke and "special" spline lube, I would think your local dealer would have done that way before going into the diff. Or maybe they did and I didn't post it?
I've also found sway bar end links to cause a clunk but you will usally hear this when you are turning or going over a bump also, But once or twice I have found them to be the problem with stops or starts only!
If it's 4x4 then you could try and narrow it down by pulling the rear drive line and going for a short drive in 4 wheel drive and see if the noise is gone.
Reoport back with you findings for further assistance

Nov 06, 2009 | 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer

1 Answer

I have a 2002 gmc sierra. when i put it in gear,


418238
If you have that much play back there, first check rear universal . If play is present in pinion with shaft removed, you will not be happy with what you find inside the cover.1/2 turn of lash in any gearset is far beyond the scope of any adjustment. Rebuilding is an exact science and must be done with special tools and lots of experience.
With any luck the u joint is bad...

Apr 18, 2009 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500

1 Answer

Rear End in a 2000 silverado moning whenever I turn a corner.


I would suggest a rear differential service. When the fluid breaks down in the rear it doesn't provide the proper lubrication for the rear and you'll hear the "moan". Don't forget to buy and add the limited slip(posi-trac) additive.

As far as the rear end noise, There was a TSB released on GMC light duty trucks that says "Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when ******* between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse... Whenever there are two or more gears interactin with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance of freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed." It goes onto say "...Whilse some owners may find the clunk objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance."

Apr 16, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

I have a2001 cherokee sport changed upper &lower ball joints,shocks sway bar end links and bushings. rear shocks,sway bar end links & bushings also,but i still get a clunking noise in the rear of...


Clunking noise in the rear of the vehicle is a broad statement. When is the vehicle doing it? Is it all the time or just over bumps? Is it happening only going around curves? Is it a constant bump that speeds up and slows down with the vehicle speed. You would be supprised how many clunking noises can come from the driveline not the suspension. It could be anything from a bushing to your rear differential getting ready to grenade.

Nov 14, 2008 | 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country

2 Answers

Rear end thumping noise


Depending on the year of your gto it could be a buggered CV joint on one of your back wheels. All GTO/3000GT are four wheel drive but up to the mid to late 90's they had four wheel steering. The usual symptoms of a buggered CV joint are loud rattling and/or vibrating from the affected wheel at around 30 - 40 mph and often a loud clunk when cornering at low speed

Aug 12, 2008 | 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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