Question about 2006 Ford F 350 Super Duty
Have re-manned ficm with 50hp boost. Has run great for months. Start up a grade and add fuel...engine stutters and lightly bucks. Does not have the power as normal. New oil, both fuel filters, clean air raid air filter, no codes...
There several things that can cause this problem no codes means that it has not fallen out of specs. or rationality yet to set a code. test mass air flow sensor , egr position sensor, injection pressure sensor, gas pedal sensor.
Posted on Mar 23, 2014
This problem is caused by a MAF sensor or even a clogged file pressure rail check both and if those aren't your problems then it could be bad diesel or your idle control is bad check all of the above and replace all if possible
Posted on Mar 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Some of these engines have a place to drain water out of the fuel system.. Some fords actually have a stick under the hood that you push or pull That opens a valve on a water collection bowl. It's not labeled usually. It might state where it is in the owners manual under fuel water drainage or something similar.. if that bowl is full it will cause hesitation... If it gets over full it will cause runability problems. Another possibility since you said it's black smoke is one of your injectors is sticking at low rpms and squirting raw fuel into the cylinder till the rpms get up enough to burn that fuel off completely then then the injector works a little better.... Do you notice any missing... Feel something under the hood like the air cleaner housing and make sure the vibration is constant and doesn't have a small sudden shake and the n smoothe... And then a small sudden shake again.
If it does have this shake you can trouble shoot which injectors by with the engine running loosening an injector line and seeing if the engine runs worse or not.. If it runs worse tighten it up and move to the next line till you unscrew one and feel and hear no difference... When you find that one that's the injector with the problem.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
Ok, lets take this from the top. I have a 97 f250 diesel. In mid may mine did the same thing. It's either one of two things. You have under valve cover harnesses (uvc). They slide in under your valve covers, you will see two wiring harnesses on the outside of the valve cover gaskets on either side of the block. Ok, it IS possible one of these slipped out of place and killed two of your injectors, causing the horrible running/ low idle/no power/ sounds like the truck is going to stall symptoms. The easiest way to check that is to unplug the wires while the truck is running and see if it kills the engine, if it doesen't unplug the other one on the same side of the valve cover. If both of these don't cause any change then you have a bigger problem, the IDM (Injector drive module).
FAIR WARNING: When you unplug the wires with the truck on it is extremely dangerous, it is 110 volt feed. It can kill you.
OK, the IDM is a silver box, 8"x10" approx dimensions, located on the driver side under the hood, over top the front tire. If you take the wires you unplugged and take a multi meter to them and they are dead, you have a bad IDM. This was the case with my truck. Ford designed the IDM to have a hole in the side to allow condensation to escape from it, unfortunately, this allows water inside and will short out resistors and practically kill half of your engine. Buy a new IDM on ebay for about $380. It takes 5 minuts to put it in.
I hope this helps you out man.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
SOURCE: 1998 FORD CONTOUR CHECK ENGINE
sounds like EGR valve and sensor this controls idle speed when at a stop. the po171 is a burn lean or rich code need to know what bank 1 or 2. also check for a vacuum leak from one of the hoses.
Posted on Aug 07, 2010
Hi, i want you to clean the air intake valve and idle speed control valve, follow the procedure below.
Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on Aug 22, 2010
SOURCE: starting problem with ford f350
Need to check the glow plug system. Follow the battry cables as the glow pug system uses big cables and the glow plug relay is right on top of the middle of the motor. The realy is cycled on and off by the cold start system and it should make a loud click as the key is first turned on. the relay powers up the wait to start light on the dash and if this light doesn't come on you know wher this is headed. The realys burn out as do every connection to itand the battrycable. the wires as they go to the glow plugs themselves and if you've been using starting fluild instead of wd40 or a safe desiel starting fluild the tips of the glow plugs may be blown off and they will need to be changed too. the wires as they connect to the glow plugs on back to the battery need to be removed cleaned and reinstalled. with the wire removed from the glow plug a meter needs to be used to see if a connection though the glow plug to ground is there if not the glow plug needs to be replaced. Not all the glow pugs have to be bad but if you've started it a lot with either it's likly thier all bad. If the glow plugs check out and cleaning all the wire connections and a test light proves the glow plugs are getting power and it still won't start with out starting fluild, You may have knocked it enough with the starting fluild to crack the piston rings and it's down on compression. theirs a temperture senser that decides how long the glow plugs are on before the light goes out to tell you to crank it. and yes if the starter won't crank it fast enough as the batteries are low or the starters worn out then it won't start without fluild either. WD40 is way safer that starting fluild as the engine doesn't knock as hard, and make it into an either freak, (Needs either no matter what to start). The electronic thorttle control is just that and the gas pedal has a senser on it that gets dirty and it's made by the same peaple that were involved in the big Toyoda recall and your truck maybe a recall in this area too call your dealer with your VIN and they'll tell you about the recalls and bullitins that apply to your truck and if thier are any I'd be right on down there to get them. A runaway desiel is no fun, Hope your breaks are good as it'll not shut off.
Posted on Jan 31, 2011
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