Testimonial: "Thanks, the orifice tube was completely clogged when i pulled it out, looks like the compressor really did a number when it failed. Should i replace the accumulator also?
I have the lines to the front and rear evaporators and the condenser isolated and plan to flush all three. Does it matter which direction to flush?"
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remove dash assembly try to back flush first or drain cooling system put water back in add cascade dish washing soap and drive a couple days if heater starts woreking better turn heat on high run engine open drain with a hose nozel on high and a large pan under drain flush all water out with engine running refill system with heat on high and vehicle running if heat still weak remove heater hoses the top should be the return line put a hose about 8 inces long on both out lets run the bottom hose to a high area where it can be suspended put a funnel in upper hose poor clr into hose until it comes out top of lower hose let set for hour and a half then flush out with water into a clear jug flush water vthrough upper hose then if u have air compressor have a 6 inch hose attatched to upper pipe and blow out core into same jug until the jug has clean and clear water refill cooling system and drive if heat doesnt work at first put engine under a load to release residule deposits in heater core and it should start flowing
Look for the expansion valve where two of the AC lines connect together, usually near the radiator and the lines may be slightly different diameters, the larger one contains the valve. It is also VERY important to flush ALL of the old oil out of the system. Do this with an AC flush kit and all parts removed. Concentrate on the condensor and the evaporator after the hoses are flushed. Coat all 'o"rings and seals with AC oil when reassembling and be careful, leaks can happen and will be costly. Install 1/3 of system oil capacity in compressor and TURN the compressor by HAND after hoses are installed to it. OIL DOES NOT COMPRESS!! You may want to have a shop evacuate the system when ready.
If you can see and get to both ends of the hose you can replace it. It probably isn't cheap. If it is damaged and has leaked the refrigerant, there shouldn't be any pressure in the system. If not, you have to have the refrigerant reclaimed. It is against the law to allow the refrigerant escape into the atmosphere. If the refrigerant is gone, when you take the hose loose use two wrenches if there is that kind if connection. Hold the one and turn the hose nut or the other way. One side will have a nut on it. Some hose assemblies that connect to the compressor are made in one piece. The mount to the compressor via a plate or manifold and bolts. In this arrangement the hoses at the compressor end are made with tubing on the end that is welded to the plate or manifold. Look for that depending on which hose is bad. After the hose connections are apart plug or cover the "good" part to keep dirt out. Install the new hose, using a lubricant on the O ring seal. DON'T USE MOTOR OIL. You can use mineral oil. only a slight amount on the O ring with your finger tip. You don't want to contaminate the system with petroleum oil. Use new rings that come with the hose. After you have it back together, you will have to have it charged. Most manufacturers recommend that you have the system flushed first. This get old oil and dirt out. There is special oil in the system that lubricates the compressor. Then they will charge the system by pumping a vacuum on the system to remove all the air and moisture. If you had it flushed it will need to have the oil replaced, and then the refrigerant. As you can probably see, the hose is probably the cheapest part. Check with several places that do this kind of work before you decide. Nothing with AC is cheap. Good luck. Thanks for using FixYa. Gaker
depending on where its at, it will either be a high side or a low side line, i'm at hopme righ now and dont have my manuals with me, but generally the lines after your compressor up to the dryer are high side, and from the dryer to the compressor are low side, hope i was able to help
I would suggest leak testing it you can take hose with clamps to the outlet and put a psi gauge on it then hook a compressor to the other end with a hose with clamps. This will show you if you have any obvious leaks you dont need alot 10psi and hold as long as you would like atleast a min you can also spray it with soap bubles to be sure. the condenser if its not leaking would be fine with a flush.
Installing a compressor is a complex job there is alot more to just braking the lines and removing the bolts to the compressor and if you are not sure you really should leave it to a service department.I will tell you to proper steps. First you need to have the system evacuated of freon before you can break the lines.Then if you are installing a new compressor you will need to also purchase the accumilator as well as orfice tube or expansion valve wich ever the case may be. Alot of places will not warranty the compressor unless you change out the accumilator as well as the orfice tube or expasion valve. While you are changing these parts out also change out the orings associated with each part. You will also want to buy A/C flush and flush out the entire A/C system once you have done this begain to assemble the parts but dont forget to oil the compressor and accumilator and put some in the condensor. once the parts have been assembled then you need to have the system vacumed out of all moisture. This is crucial or you will have premature compressor failer. Once the system is vacumed its time to recharge make sure you hook up to the right line when charging the system as hooking to the wrong line will cause your can to burst assuming you are using small cans to recharge.charge only the required amount of freon do not over charge. If your comprssor locked up make sure its the compressor and not the compressor clutch lot less expensive to replace it. Also if its not blowing cold air and only cool air it could be orfice tube plugged up.
The oil spec is PAG 150--68.00 ounces. General Motors issues Bulletin # 02-01-39-004B replacing PAG 150 oil with a lower viscocity oil. Thus, now indicates PAG 46 (P46D) oil for those vehicles.
There is a high pressure side and low pressure side to the system. The high vapor=compressor to the condensor. Low side vapor=compressor to evaporator. Your system will use R134a freon.
The A/C is a sealed system and when the compressor fails it circulates debris throughout the A/C system and contaminates it. Before replacing the compressor several other A/C parts have to be checked or changed.
Typically, the condenser should be flushed to remove any debris or contaminated compressor oil. Use approved flushing agents (aresol or liquid pour types), that evaporate quickly and don't leave any residue in the system. You will also need access to 'DRY' compressed air or nitrogen to push the flush through the system. Nitrogen (an inert gas), is best because it doesn't introduce moisture into the system. You need to do this a couple of times.
Accumulator or receiver drier should be replaced when you are replacing your A/C compressor. If don't replace your accumulator or drier you will probably void your compressor warranty. It's virtually mandintory to replace the orifice tube or expansion valve. The openings are usually about .050" and are quickly plugged. Be sure to clean all hose assemblies internally prior to installing your new compressor. Not doing this could contaminate your new compressor. Flush both ways until the flush agent exiting is clean, you will need to remove the hose assemblies to do this.
After you have cleaned, inspected and replaced all the parts, you connect the vacuum pump and remove the air from the system. Make sure it holds pressure. Then recharge the system with the proper freon and oil to the system specified levels.
No matter why you are replacing the A/C compressor there is a lot of other related work that has to be completed before you install the new compressor. Hope this helps, good luck.