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Do i need to flush a/c lines after changing a/c hose assembly?

Do i need to flush a/c lines after changing compressor and a/c hose assembbly

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  • Ford Master
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Yes. There will be left over metal particles in the system. Flushing removes all the oil in the system too so don't forget to add the correct amount before starting the compressor when adding freon.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

Testimonial: "Thanks, the orifice tube was completely clogged when i pulled it out, looks like the compressor really did a number when it failed. Should i replace the accumulator also? I have the lines to the front and rear evaporators and the condenser isolated and plan to flush all three. Does it matter which direction to flush?"

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  • Lawrence Oravetz Mar 25, 2014

    Replace the accumulator after you have flushed the system. If you flush the system with the hoses in place the sludge will be caught iby the dissicant in the accumulator/drier. Push the flush thru the evaporator first. You absolutely have to evacuate the system for an hour or so just prior to adding freon to make sure all the air has been removed. If you try to cheat on this the system will not perform correctly.

  • amateur mechanic
    amateur mechanic Mar 28, 2014

    Yea, the rear evap was really dirty. The compressor lines run to the accumulator ant then to the rear evaporator which explains it being so bad. The front cabin evap and condenser was relitivly clean. Flushed all three and blew air until dry. The specs call for 56oz of freon and 14 oz of Pac 46 oil. How should i add the oil. Can i buy a container of oil and add the system is evacuated or do i add it with the freon?

  • Lawrence Oravetz Mar 29, 2014

    Once the system is closed and evacuated you put the oil in first on the low side.You don't want the shaft seal on the compressor to start dry. You can get oil in cans that connect to the gauges like a freon can does. They are smaller and may contain a dye that will show at any point there is a leak. If you have more oil left in the can that may be an oz more than necessary put the whole can in. Once that is done put one can of freon in the low side. this will pressurize the system enough to engage the clutch safety switches . Add more until the clutch engages then finish off the charge. Open all the car doors when you're charging so the thermostat won't stop the clutch before the charge is complete. It just makes it go faster.

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I am looking to convert the AC over to 134a. I have heard that the oil, the dryer and the expansive valve need to be replaced and then the system vacuumed out. where are the expansion valve and the dryer...


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Now you have a big job ahead of you

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Check this two procedure for...

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  2. Remove the drive belt on the vehicle.
  3. Remove the air cleaner and resonator assembly.
  4. Unplug the electrical connections from the compressor.
  5. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  6. Unfasten, then remove and cap the A/C hose from the compressor.
Cap the refrigerant lines when opening the system to prevent the entry of dirt and moisture and the loss of refrigerant lubricant.
  1. Loosen the A/C compressor bolts, then raise and support the vehicle.
236a413.jpg

Fig. 3: Compressor mounting on the 2.2L (VIN 4) engine
  1. Remove the compressor.
To install:
  1. Position the compressor on the vehicle.
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Install the compressor bolts, then tighten the front bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the rear bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  4. Attach the compressor hose using NEW sealing washers. Tighten the mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
Lubricate O-rings with refrigerant oil.
  1. Engage the electrical connections to the compressor.
  2. Install the air cleaner and resonator assembly.
  3. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  4. Connect negative battery cable.
  5. Evacuate and charge the system.
  6. Perform a leak test on the system.

3.1L (VIN M) Engine
  1. Properly discharge the air conditioning system into a recovery/recycling machine.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
  4. Remove the front compressor bolts.
  5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  6. Remove the rear compressor bolts.
5121365.jpg

Fig. 4: Compressor mounting on the 3.1L (VIN M) engine
  1. Unplug and cap the coupled hose assembly from the rear of the compressor.
Cap the refrigerant lines when opening the system to prevent the entry of dirt and moisture and the loss of refrigerant lubricant.
  1. Disconnect the electrical connection at the compressor.
  2. Remove the compressor from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install the compressor on the vehicle, engage the electrical connection to the compressor.
  2. Install the coupled hose assembly to the rear of the compressor, with NEW sealing washers. Tighten the mounting bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
  3. Install the rear compressor bolts. Tighten the rear bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Install the front compressor bolts. Tighten them to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  6. Install the serpentine drive belt on the vehicle.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
  8. Evacuate and charge the system.
  9. Perform a leak test.
Hope this help (remember rated this).

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I would suggest leak testing it you can take hose with clamps to the outlet and put a psi gauge on it then hook a compressor to the other end with a hose with clamps. This will show you if you have any obvious leaks you dont need alot 10psi and hold as long as you would like atleast a min you can also spray it with soap bubles to be sure. the condenser if its not leaking would be fine with a flush.

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Installing a compressor is a complex job there is alot more to just braking the lines and removing the bolts to the compressor and if you are not sure you really should leave it to a service department.I will tell you to proper steps. First you need to have the system evacuated of freon before you can break the lines.Then if you are installing a new compressor you will need to also purchase the accumilator as well as orfice tube or expansion valve wich ever the case may be. Alot of places will not warranty the compressor unless you change out the accumilator as well as the orfice tube or expasion valve. While you are changing these parts out also change out the orings associated with each part. You will also want to buy A/C flush and flush out the entire A/C system once you have done this begain to assemble the parts but dont forget to oil the compressor and accumilator and put some in the condensor. once the parts have been assembled then you need to have the system vacumed out of all moisture. This is crucial or you will have premature compressor failer. Once the system is vacumed its time to recharge make sure you hook up to the right line when charging the system as hooking to the wrong line will cause your can to burst assuming you are using small cans to recharge.charge only the required amount of freon do not over charge. If your comprssor locked up make sure its the compressor and not the compressor clutch lot less expensive to replace it. Also if its not blowing cold air and only cool air it could be orfice tube plugged up.

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There is a high pressure side and low pressure side to the system. The high vapor=compressor to the condensor. Low side vapor=compressor to evaporator. Your system will use R134a freon.

The A/C is a sealed system and when the compressor fails it circulates debris throughout the A/C system and contaminates it. Before replacing the compressor several other A/C parts have to be checked or changed.
Typically, the condenser should be flushed to remove any debris or contaminated compressor oil. Use approved flushing agents (aresol or liquid pour types), that evaporate quickly and don't leave any residue in the system. You will also need access to 'DRY' compressed air or nitrogen to push the flush through the system. Nitrogen (an inert gas), is best because it doesn't introduce moisture into the system. You need to do this a couple of times.
Accumulator or receiver drier should be replaced when you are replacing your A/C compressor. If don't replace your accumulator or drier you will probably void your compressor warranty. It's virtually mandintory to replace the orifice tube or expansion valve. The openings are usually about .050" and are quickly plugged. Be sure to clean all hose assemblies internally prior to installing your new compressor. Not doing this could contaminate your new compressor. Flush both ways until the flush agent exiting is clean, you will need to remove the hose assemblies to do this.
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