Can't remove crankshaft damper bolt from 2001 Taurus OHV

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Can't remove crankshaft damper bolt from 2001 Taurus OHV

I'm trying to remove the crankshaft damper on a 2001 Taurus OHV (Vulcan engine). I removed the pulley, but cannot loosen the damper bolt....tried an impact wrench. I also tried locking the damper in place using a box wrench on one of the pulley bolts, locking it against the frame while turning the damper bolt with a breaker bar. It didn't budge. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks.

BobL Mar 23, 2014

Thanks, had already tried, thinking it might be LH. Pretty sure it's RH though. Giving up for now,

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Bill Boyd

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40,691 Answers

Try using the impact gun again only this time set it on do up tension as the bolt may be a left hand thread lock bolt /nut.

Posted on Mar 23, 2014

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1999 ford taurus 3.0 dohc

this job does require some special tools to remove the crankshaft balancer....
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove drive belt.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Remove RH front wheel and tire assembly.
5. Remove four crankshaft pulley to damper retaining bolts and remove crankshaft pulley.

Zoom and Print Options 42_fm99tausa_303.01a-027b.png&width=448&height=330&displaytype=display&imgrotation=&links=

6. Remove crankshaft damper retaining bolt and washer.

7. CAUTION: Use care when removing damper so as not to damage crankshaft or create burrs.

Remove damper from crankshaft using Crankshaft Damper Remover 303-009 (T58P-6316-D) and Vibration Damper Remover Adapter 303-176 (T82L-6316-B).

Jun 15, 2012 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

How to chg alternator on 2002 ford taurus 24v dohc 3.0

ctionsThings You'll Need

Flywheel holding tool
New alternator
Socket wrench set
Torque wrench

- 1Determine which alternator your Ford Taurus will need. You'll want to be sure the new alternator is compatible with your Taurus's engine. Models made from 1986 to 1991 have a 2.5 L HSC, 3.0 L Vulcan or 3.8 L engine. The 2.5 L engine was dropped for 1992 to 1995 models, and post-1995 models will have a 3.0 L engine.
- 2Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Release the tension on the accessory drive belt so that you can remove the drive belt from the pulley.
- 3Take off the mounting bolt on the right side of the alternator with a socket wrench and remove the bracket for the power steering hose. Remove the mounting bolts on top of the alternator, the front passenger wheel and tire assembly and the front fender splash shield. Remove the alternator splash shield with a socket wrench and take off the inspection cover for the torque converter.
- 4Mount a tool to hold the flywheel so you can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley. Lower the alternator so you can unplug its electrical connections. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor and Oxygen sensor connector. Remove the lower alternator mounting bolt and B+ connector nut to remove the alternator.
- 5Install the new alternator assembly by reversing the above procedure. Use a torque wrench to tighten the B+ connector nut to 71 in. lbs. and the lower alternator bolt to 18 foot pounds. Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 74. foot pounds, the upper alternator bolts to 18 foot pounds and the nut for the power steering hose bracket to 13 foot pounds.

Read more: How to Replace the Alternator in a Ford Taurus ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4506222_replace-alternator-ford-taurus.html#ixzz1ZdgFklse

Oct 01, 2011 | 2002 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Hi i need to know 2001 ford taurus top dead centre mark on crank pully

Due to the lack of timing marks you need to remove the center bolt from the damper on the crankshaft and take a flashlight or a laser pointer and look at the keyway for the damper and point the keyway to 12 O'Clock and that is Top Dead Center.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Jul 19, 2011 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Aligning the valve timing mareks except twincam engine

Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Crankshaft Damper and Front Oil Seal

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Negative battery cable
- Accessory drive belt
- Cooling fans
- Crankshaft pulley and damper, using a holding fixture as shown
- Front crankshaft seal Fig. 1: Crankshaft pulley removal tool - V8
To install:
Install oil seal replacer tool JD-235 to the oil seal. Use the nut and bolt provided with the tool to fully seat the seal to the timing cover.
For dampers which DO NOT utilize a spit locking ring:
1. Apply a thin, even coating of Loctite® 648 to the damper bore. Do not apply it to the end faces or to the crankshaft.
2. Install the crankshaft damper onto the crankshaft. Wipe off any Loctite that has squeezed out from the front of the damper.
3. Install the locking tool to the damper. Tighten the bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm), plus an 80 degree turn.
For dampers which utilize a spit locking ring:
1. Install a new O-ring seal to the damper.
2. Install the crankshaft damper.
3. Apply petroleum jelly to the damper bore and O-ring seal.
4. Install the damper onto the crankshaft.
5. Install the split locking ring onto the crankshaft, inside the center bore of the damper.
6. Install the locking tool to the damper.
7. Tighten the damper bolt to 266-285 ft. lbs. (364-386 Nm).
8. Remove the locking tool from the damper.
Install or connect the following:
- Cooling fans
- Accessory drive belt
- Negative battery cable
Start the engine and check for leaks.

Timing Cover

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Negative battery cable
- Upper radiator hose
- Accessory drive belt
- Water pump pulley
- Accessory drive belt tensioner
- Idler pulley
- Crankshaft damper
- Engine appearance covers
- Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter
- Air intake assembly
- Ignition coils
- Canister purge valve
- Valve covers
- Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoids
- Engine harness retaining clips
- Timing cover
To install: Fig. 2: Sealant application points - V8
Fig. 3: Timing cover torque sequence-V8
Apply sealant to the 8 joints on the engine face as shown.
Install or connect the following:
- Timing cover with new seals. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 96-120 inch lbs. (11-13 Nm).
- Engine harness retaining clips
- VVT solenoids
- Valve covers
- Canister purge valve
- Ignition coils
- Air intake assembly
- MAF meter
- Engine appearance covers
- Crankshaft damper
- Idler pulley
- Accessory drive belt tensioner
- Water pump pulley
- Accessory drive belt
- Upper radiator hose
- Negative battery cable
Fill the cooling system.
Start the engine and check for leaks.

Timing Chain 6 CYLINDER

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Negative battery cable
- Accessory drive belt
- Valve cover
- Timing chain cover
- Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor
- Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Rotate the crankshaft until the triangular arrow indent on the driveplate is visible through the access hole.
Install the Crankshaft Setting Peg JD 216 into the CKP sensor location.
Install the Camshaft Locking tool JD 215 on the camshafts.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Camshaft sprocket mounting bolt by loosening it
- VVT mounting bolt by loosening it
- Camshaft Locking tool JD 215
- Primary timing chain tensioner and backing plate
- Primary timing chain guide
- VVT unit and exhaust camshaft sprocket
- Secondary timing chain tensioner and guide
NOTE: Keep all valvetrain components in order for assembly. To install:
Prepare the timing chain tensioners for installation by using a paperclip or other wire to unseat the check valves and compressing the pistons into their bores.
Install or connect the following:
- Secondary timing chain guide. Tighten the bolt to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
- Secondary timing chain tensioner. Tighten the bolt to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
- VVT, secondary timing chain and exhaust cam sprocket
- Primary timing chain
- Primary timing chain guide. Tighten the bolt to 10-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
- Primary timing chain tensioner and backing plate. Tighten the bolts to 89-124 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).
- Primary timing chain slack, eliminate it by placing a wedge between the primary timing chain tensioner and the guide shoe
- Secondary timing chain by applying counterclockwise force to the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Fig. 4: Apply force in a counterclockwise direction when tightening the sprocket mounting bolts - 6 cylinder
- Exhaust and intake VVT sprocket bolts. Tighten them to 85-92 ft. lbs. (115-125 Nm).
Remove the tools and wedges.
Install or connect the following:
- CKP sensor
- VVT sensor
- Coolant outlet pipe
- ECT sensor connector
- Radiator and heater hoses
- Timing chain cover
- Valve cover
- Accessory drive belt
- Negative battery cable
Fill the cooling system.
Start the engine and check for leaks.

Jan 28, 2011 | 1999 Jaguar XK8

1 Answer

Need a drive belt diagram for a 2003 ford taurus 3.0L. v6

Removal 1. Remove the engine front cover. 2. CAUTION: This pulse wheel is used with several difference engines. Install the pulse wheel with the keyway in the slot stamped 30 or30 RFF only (orange in color). Remove the ignition pulse wheel.3. Install the damper bolt. 4. NOTE: LH shown, RH similar. Remove the LH and RH spark plugs.
8.80 Page 2 5. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o’clock position and position the camshafts in the correct position. This will position the number one cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC). ^ Verify that the camshafts are correctly located. If not, rotate the crankshaft one additional turn and recheck.

Jul 11, 2010 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Bolt on crankshaft to remove clockwise or counterclockwise?

Crankshaft Damper/Pulley counterclockwise to remove pulley:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the drive belts from the crankshaft damper.
Remove the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt. Hold the crankshaft stationary by placing a suitable tool in the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. Fig. 1: Use a breaker bar to remove the crankshaft damper bolt
Fig. 2: The crankshaft can be held stationary by using a suitable tool to place between the flywheel teeth
Fig. 3: Be sure to lubricate the threads of the crankshaft damper bolt to obtain a proper torque reading
Remove the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft by pulling it straight off the shaft. A puller may be required to remove the damper from the shaft. Be careful not to lose the woodruff key when removing the crankshaft damper. Fig. 4: The crankshaft damper can sometimes be pulled from the shaft by hand
Fig. 5: A puller may be required to remove the crankshaft damper
NOTE: If working on a VE30DE or VQ30DE engine, it would be a good idea to replace the crankshaft oil seal when the crankshaft damper is removed. Fig. 6: The timing chain cover oil seal should be replaced whenever the crankshaft damper is removed; this seal is leaking severely
Fig. 7: This crankshaft damper may have a problem sealing properly due to the groove that was worn into it from the seal
To install:
Install the crankshaft damper onto the shaft, making sure the woodruff key is in place. Dip the damper bolt in fresh oil and torque the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt to the following specifications:
- VG30E engine — 90–98 ft.lbs. (123–132 Nm.)
- VE30DE engine — 123–130 ft.lbs. (167–177 Nm.)
- VQ30DE engine — 29–36 ft.lbs. (39–49 Nm.) followed by 60–66°clockwise angle torque
Install the drive belts to the crankshaft damper; be sure to properly set belt tension.

Jul 08, 2010 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Need a diagram to replace the crank pulley on a 1990 Oldsmobile regency 98 3.8 liter

This is what I found on the 98 Regency instructions: Crankshaft Damper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the belts from the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the crankshaft damper attaching bolt.
Attach a suitable puller to the damper and remove the damper from the crankshaft. NOTE: On certain models, removal of the cooling fan, fan shroud or radiator may be necessary for clearance. WARNING
DO NOT pry on the damper assembly to remove it from the vehicle or component damage will result. Remove the damper using a puller only.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the damper bolt to specification. Fig. 1: One example of a crankshaft damper puller tool
Fig. 2: Removing the crankshaft damper bolt Fig. 3: Do not attempt to pry on the damper to remove it from the crankshaft, use a puller only Fig. 4: Removing the damper from the crankshaft Fig. 5: When installing the damper, thread the bolt by hand first to prevent cross-threading

Jul 04, 2010 | 1990 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight

1 Answer

Looking to replace my alternator on a 1999 ford taurus but dont know how to loosen the belt

To loosen the belt use a 15mm socket on the tensioner pulley. Turn clockwise if you have a OHV engine or counterclockwise if your engine is OHC. Turning this bolt will release pressure on the belt allowing you to remove it from the other pulleys.To identify the tensioner pulley it is just above and to the right of your crankshaft.
Hope this was helpful.

Jan 13, 2010 | 1999 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

Does my 2001 saturn sl 1.9l have a timing belt or chain?

It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows:
1.9L SOHC Engine

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Negative battery cable
- Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
- 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
- Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
- Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
- A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
- Camshaft cover
- Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
- Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
- Remove or disconnect the following:
  - Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
  - Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
  - Front cover oil seal from the cover
  NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
- Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
- Remove or disconnect the following:
  - Timing guides and tensioner
  - Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
  - Crankshaft sprocket
  To install:
- Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
- Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
- Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
- Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
- Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
- Install or connect the following:
  - Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
  - Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
  - Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
  - Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
- Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
- Install or connect the following:
  - Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
  - If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

1.9L (DOHC) Engine

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Negative battery cable
- Right front wheel and splash shield
NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
- 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
- Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
- Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
- A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
- Camshaft cover
Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove or disconnect the following:
- Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
- Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
- Front cover oil seal from the cover
NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
- Timing guides and tensioner
- Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
- Crankshaft sprocket

Nov 30, 2009 | 2001 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I need to remove the harmonic pully on a 1996 avenger so i can replace the timing belt.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the right side wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the right inner splash shield.
Remove the accessory drive belts.
Break the crankshaft damper bolt loose, but do not remove it.
Remove the crankshaft damper. If necessary, attach a suitable 3-jawed puller to the crankshaft damper, then tighten the center bolt and remove the damper bolt and damper.

Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the right side inner fender splash shield

Fig. Fig. 2: From below the vehicle, remove the accessory drive belts

Fig. Fig. 3: If necessary, use a prying tool to wedge between the engine block and damper spoke hole, then loosen the center bolt

Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the crankshaft damper center bolt and washer

Fig. Fig. 5: Pull off the crankshaft damper, or remove using a 3-jawed puller tool
To install:

Install the crankshaft damper. It may be necessary to install the crankshaft damper using an M12-1.75 x 150mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from the crankshaft damper installation tool kit 6792 or equivalent.
Install the crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to the following specifications:

2.0L SOHC and DOHC engines-105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm). 2.4L engine-100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm) 2.5L engine-134 ft. lbs. (182 Nm)
Install the accessory drive belts.
Install the right inner splash shield. Install the right side wheel and tire assembly.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.

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Jul 10, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Avenger

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redspider187 · Answer 2 · 10/18/2008 12:00:00 AM

Well the first thing is to forget what the manual says you need a threequrter air ratchet to take off the locker nut not a impact wrench. Put a block under the weels then put it in gear this well put presher on the flexplate and ceep the moter from turing over then take off the nut now you will need to go by the book when puting back togather.I would put a beed of hightem seller then put your seal in and let set for atleast 24 to 36 hours for best seal you can get.well I hope this will help good luck on your project.

Phillip Ridener · Answer 3 · 1/18/2009 12:00:00 AM

Phillip Ridener

146 Answers

SOURCE: 96 Buick PA Trying to

no the damper is part of your crank trigger. you can try to heat the bolt then try to take it off. good luck. Phil.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

Darrell · Answer 4 · 2/18/2009 12:00:00 AM

you usually need an impact gun,but....with the right amount or extension to clear the fender,you can use 1/2 drive breaker bar and a piece of pipe for leverage this bolt is torqued tight for a reason so even if you get it off, after the job is done it would be a good idea to take it to a mechanic and ask the nicely to tighten the crank bolt with a impact gun.have a good day DB

its420_us · Answer 5 · 5/5/2009 12:00:00 AM

its420_us

316 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Isuzu Trooper Crankshaft bolt is impossible to turn

"Heat" and air impact is the trick. Get it as hot as you can and hit it with air impact. Be careful not to burn yourself!

I hope this helps you, and I wish you luck with your repair.

Posted on May 05, 2009

its420_us · Answer 6 · 5/12/2009 12:00:00 AM

You will have to brace the crankshaft somehow, either by way of the flywheel, or the pulley. The trick to getting the bolt to break is "heat". Propane will sometimes work, but it's generally not hot enough. You want to get that bolt glowing if you can, and hit it with air impact then. Be careful not to burn yourself!

I hope this helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.

Can't remove crankshaft damper bolt from 2001 Taurus OHV

1 Answer

Bill Boyd

6 Suggested Answers

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