Question about 2003 Audi A6

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Brake light is on and car won't go past 1st gear

The brake pedal goes to the floor easily and we tried to put fluid in the tank, but the screen will not let it go down. Car will not go past 1st gear and emergency brake is not on.

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  • Audi Master
  • 733 Answers

CHECK BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH.PERFORM A BRAKE FLUID CHANGE.CHECK SERVO BRAKE FOR LEAKS{U MIGHT HEAR A HISS WHEN U ORESS PEDAL}LET ME KNOW.!!.

Posted on Mar 24, 2014

  • TCI Mar 24, 2014

    CHECK BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH.PERFORM A BRAKE FLUID CHANGE.CHECK SERVO BRAKE FOR LEAKS{U MIGHT HEAR A HISS WHEN U ORESS PEDAL}LET ME KNOW.!!.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: No clutch resistance on audi a4

This sounds like a common Audi problem but its usually in early shape A3s and TTs. If you heard a snap, then possibly the pedal has broken where the clutch master cylinder connects to it. In this case you can just replace the pedal but it can be an early sign of a faulty master cylinder. If the pedal is ok, it maybe the master that has failed and needs replacing. Worse cases, the slave cylinder maybe faulty or even the release bearing could be sticking on the input shaft. Bleeding the brakes will not help, the clutch shares the same fluid and reservoir but is on a different hydraulic system. The clutch would need to be bled from the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox. This can be difficult without the car on the ramp, but is worth trying before replacing parts. What engine does it have?

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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SOURCE: Left rear brake light stopped working but bulb and fuses are OK.

take the bulb back out have someone sit in car apply brake get your self a circuit tester and check to see if this circuit is carrying efficient 12 volt current! some times in cold weather these bulbs get hot with long period of breaking and when released condensate and rust begins and you get what you have perhaps bad socket! this would be a ideal location to begin and probably end,

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: My Audi A4, will not

MoSelecm, it seems like you will need a new clutch

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: brakes grindind at low speed

Sounds like your getting abs activation when its not needed. Most likley one of the wheel speed sensors has failed. You do need to have a scan tool to read the live data from the abs module as the problem is occurring to pinpoint which sensor is faulty. The abs light will not come on because the abs module thinks its just working normally. I'm an ASE certified mechanic and have seen this problem many times on various vehicles. You might have to pay somebody to diagnose it, but replacing the sensor it a very easy task. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 A4 1.8T Brake Lights Remain On After Car Is Parked

Sounds like your brake light switch is on its way out. Its a simple fix and a cheap part. It will need to be done immediately as not only can the lights staying on drain your battery but it can also cause lack of power and not put the brake lights on when braking. The switch is operated by the pedal itself and requires the drivers underdash trim to be removed. With this off the switch can be accessed and replaced. If you can get a vehicle technician to fit it, do so, as they are quite fragile and new switches can become useless if fitted incorrectly. Good luck

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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2005 chevy duramax 4x4 brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, ABS light on


You need to add BRAKE fluid. After that, blead your brakes. You need to find out where the brake fluid went. If there are no leaks, you need to check the remaining life on all four brake sets. If you have no leaks, chances are pretty good that you need new brakes.

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The clutch pedal seems to be very flopy and is not going into gear easily


Can be broken spring on the cluch pedal in side the car, that hold the pedal all the way back for full amount of brake fluid to the slave cylender, can be checked by pulling the pedal all the way up before steping it to the floor and putting in to gear or just look up under the daschbord on the pedal. Can allso be to little brake fluid in container. To check the master cylender rubber, step on the pedal putt in gear with engine running and wait with pedal all the way to the floor, if the rubber is gone the car wil start to go after some time (1/2-1 min or less) To check the slave cylender rubber will be dune the same way and working same way but it will be leaking out and on the floor.

Jun 18, 2012 | 1999 SsangYong Korando

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Brakes are out, accepts fluid but no leak, and pedal goes to floor. Any suggs?


Try to check your HYDROVAC assembly.. remove assembly and detach brake master, see if there are fluids present on the accumulator tank of the hydrovac. replace brake master rubber caps or brake master assembly.

Dec 15, 2011 | 1995 Ford Crown Victoria

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94 buick century brake pedal goes to floor and I have no brakes


ck the brake fluid level. if its out, then fill it up, pump the pedal and find the leak.

Sep 07, 2011 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

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What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Dec 06, 2010 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch goes all the way down to the floor, unable ...


Does the clutch pedal offer any resistance? The clutch and brake system use the same reservoir, there is a hose coming out from the side of the reservoir that goes over to the clutch master cylinder. Sometimes the brake fluid level goes low as brake pads wear and lowers the fluid level too low to work the clutch. On the front side of the transmission, is a clutch slave cylinder, check it for leaks, if it leaks replace it. Hope this helps, let me know.

May 21, 2010 | 1994 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes down to floor. Putting brake fluid doesn't solve problem. Vehicle must coast to a complete stop.


First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)

May 04, 2009 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks

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