Question about 2004 Chevrolet Malibu
Low engine power light comes on after driving 1 hour
Just my thoughts, and if I had-it, to look-at, I would do a better diagnostic! If you have not yet done any of all of these. I am saying, I would have the System Scanned for fault codes ( a good place is if you do not have a Scanner, and any friend who does, and have little know-how), Scan and get the codes and you may likely find its a sensor, Cam/Crank or something of the sort. I (if it my car), was going to pull-off my Injector rail and service my Injectors to make sure that fuel aspect is pure and free, if you are seeing the injectors, you can do them yourself, just get the bottom seals/top O-rings and lubricate them and you are ready too, ask if you wish I will be happy yo show you how the electronic way: firstname.lastname@example.org I will show what people pay to get done, and do them differently, and its fun to do them the real way like a pro. Check and if need too, replace the spark plugs. A real tune-up is what the car may need, and a real tune up requires Injectors, and it is not what is usually done for big bucks. That said, I will also offer you information, so you can protect your investments, and make your vehicle's life-span be reversed. Yes, you heard correctly. The older the vehicle, the more miles you drive, the better it gets. Sounds like a myth, well its not!
I do hope you get through. Bottom like, get a normal Mechanic that can tune your vehicle, and not to clean your injectors without them coming off from the rail, and then do another scan. At least the vehicle is tuned, and ready to give a true diagnostic for a final solution, which may not even need anything further! Great Luck!
Posted on Mar 30, 2014
I bought a handheld diagnostics unit. they are not very expensive anymore, like they use to be.. plugs in under dash they are universal. it will tell u n bout 60 seconds what is causing your car to do this
Posted on Mar 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: grinding noise while driving.
a) a brake disc shield is too close to the disc, and it's coming into contact in the circumstances you outline
b) pebbles stuck between the disc shield and the disk
c) dried out wheel bearings
d) worn Universal Joints in the drive shafts
e) worn A/C pump
f) worn alternator
g) worn water pump
Is the noise still present above 15 miles an hour and past 1500 rpm when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. gearbox in neutral?). The answer to this question may help you to pinpoint the source. I know it's stating the obvious but the fact that you're hearing a grinding sound means it's caused by something that is moving relative to something else. Again this should help narrow down the cause.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
i fixed mine by pulling each and every fuse in all the fuse boxes and replacing them with new ones. the hhr fuses have a tendency to work loose and cause all kinds of little problems. i searched the forums for the answer to the traction control light problem and never found an answer that worked until i talked to a "shade tree" mechanic in my area and he told me to do the fuse thing. been a month now and no more problems.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
Testimonial: "The comments I left are the solution. The fuse thing does not do anything. It's a red herring. I replaced only the one that's associated with P0010 and It's been months."
SOURCE: OIL PRESSUE LOW
At some point, your engine is registering low oil pressure and warning you the oil pressure is insufficient to lubricate the engine properly.
How does the engine know this? What causes it? Excellent questions. The engine 'knows' this because there is one or more sensors that read the oil pressure all the time. The sensors report to the computer which reports to you. They could be faulty. On the other hand, there could be times when oil pressure IS low. Your oil pump may be mal-functioning. Normally, I would expect the oil pump to either do its job properly or NOT do it properly but not act intermittently. It may warrant being checked by a professional. Another reason for this condition could be the oil itself, though you report you just had it changed. Presumably, whom ever did the change put in the proper oil grade, service and weight, recommended by GM.
Another thought, is this warning seen by you immediately after you start the car? If yes, it is normal for oil to take a second or two to build the proper pressure, particularly in cold weather. Where I am at, it is cold. Oil doesn't like to move when it is cold (like me) so it takes a bit of time to get up pressure (like me).
If this continues, you may want to have this problem looked at by a professional, as I said.
Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
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