Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
Started after I replaced the front door speakers but would some times worked but now the two front doors have to be open kind of
There is a rubber boot that goes from the body to the door. Inside that boot there are the wires for speakers locks windows, etc. If the power window wire is pinched or partially cut then that would be your fix. Your Main window switch that can control all the windows from the driver's seat is that hub for all the power that goes to each other door and window as far as power windows is concerned. Not sure as to why both front doors would have to be opened to open the front windows. If both doors are having a problem then you may have a problem inside the wiring boot in between the body and each door so check both. This is a common problem with a lot of vehicles with power windows. Good Luck.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Before spending several hundres on a fuel pump, I recommend doing a fuel pressure test. You can get a test gauge pretty cheap at a parts store. If the pump is junk, you raise the truck, lower the fuel tank, unplug the electronics from the pump at the top of the tank, then with a hammer and flat head scrwedrive, gently tap the lock ring in a counter clockwise direction until it pops off. Pull the pump assembly out and install the new one. Reverse directions to install.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
yes you have to drop the tank. you will also need a fuel line tool to unhook the fuel lines. before you drop the tank see if tou can reach and wiggle the electrical connection on the top of the tank. these pumps have a pigtail issue. please rate
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
I had the same problem - driver side fine, passenger side front not working/slow or the back seat. You need to replace the window motor on the passenger side. Yes, there are two motors. It's pretty simple if you are handy with some tools. The hardest part is getting the 4 mounts that hold the window motor to the door off. The are factory riveted to the door, so I had to grind the outsides off and tap them out. Just watch the spring lever that holds the window bar for going up and down. I didn't pay attention and it snapped back - nearly broke my thumb.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
The door hinge pins aren't very difficult to replace, the hinge itsself is. The hinge is actually welded to the door, so in order to replace it, you will need to take it apart, cut the welds, and weld a new one on, and paint it again. The hinge pins though are doable by about anyone. First, you will NEED these tools. A medium sized hammer, a brass drift punch, a long flat screwdriver, tire iron, or prybar, and something to rest the door on to keep from scratching it up, and to keep from pulling the wiring out. it should be about the same height as the bottom of the door. You may WANT these tools: door spring compressor, 1 extra person. First, start with the bottom hinge pin. You'll notice that there are a couple of washers around the tapered end of the pins. Ignore these; they're just decoration for all intent purposes. Pry out that spring that you see in next to the hinge with the prying utensil that you chose. Using that hammer and punch, drive out the bottom pin. Next, drive out the top pin, taking care to support the door, because when this one comes out, the door WILL fall. This is where your extra person and the milk crate, or whatever you chose to support the door come in. Be careful when driving the top pin out. The punch and hammer will come DANGEROUSLY close to the windshield, and result in a $190 job for a windshield and hinge pin/bushings, versus just $10 for the hinge pin/bushings. This is where you would repair the oblong holes that your door hinge undoubtedly has. You can get by with using something like Qwik Steel putty to fill in the gaps around the bushings if you want to stay cheap (you may end up having to redo it in a few years, but beats welding a new hinge on and having to redo it in a few years anyways. Or, you can choose to build the area up with a welder, redrill the holes, and go that route. Anyways, after you get your new bushings settled in, whether you used the steel putty route, welding, or just installed a new hinge, you can put the door back up there and the pins back in. I like putting the new ones in so the taper is at the bottom (keep thinking they look like they're gonna fall out the way GM puts them in there, though they never do), and then you have an option. If you want, you can leave the spring out that was in there. It will require a door spring compressor to put back in, but if you don't put it in, it won't do anything other than keep it from moving on its own when it's open. I don't bother with it. Hope that's what you're after, and good luck. It's not a hard job, but it can be a wrestling match putting the pins back in. Lastly, the door is a lot heavier than it looks, just FYI when you get it loose. Feel free to ask any further questions, I keep track of these.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
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