Question about 1997 Saab 900

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Break hose leak

National tyres caused the leak through excessive use of an airline and a wire brush attachment i had no breaking issues until then now i have no breaks how do i fix as i use the car daily for work

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  • Saab Master
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IF you have a leaking brake hose the only solution is to get a new hose from an accredited brake shop and replace it . Then bleed the brake system starting at the longest line and working back to the shortest. Brake hose perish through time and road grime so if there are any cracks appearing in the other hoses when you bend them a bit then it is time to consider a full hose replacement program. IF necessary then use an accredited brake shop as it will take less than hour for the job.

Posted on Mar 22, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Breaklights

1st get autozone to clear the code, (free) The only thing I can think of that goes out when car is off and on when lights turn on is the parking lights on the side, the wires could be touching in the conduit, start car and pull brake fuse out, if the lights stay on you have a short, if only the park lights stay on (double filiment) look at the lighting system, but if the brake and driving light stay on, sounds like an ecu problem.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • 610 Answers

SOURCE: Breaks very stiff and low breaking

Check the vacuum supply to thr power brake booster.

Posted on Apr 23, 2011

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4 Answers

Why is it hard to push on the brakes


The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the brake power booster by pumping on the brake pedal while the car isn't running. Continue pumping until you've "bled off" the vacuum from the booster. Hold the pedal down while you start the car. The pedal should go down a bit more beneath your foot. If it doesn't, then you should examine the connection between the vacuum hose of the brake power and the engine's vacuum.
Replace the brake power booster if the connection's fine, which would fix the hard brake pedal problem.

It may be your calipers need replaced. Check them for signs of wear. Look at the metal spring where the brake pads sit.
Apply tension to the pad and see whether you hear a pop. If you do, the brake pad is moving too much on the bracket. Replace the caliper. This could help the hard brake pedal.

Jul 09, 2014 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Car will not start


Anyone having this issue check the PCV hose where it attaches to the air intake, the rubber breaks down and develops a leak. But these engines also have wiring issues that causes crankshaft sensor to fail at startup or under 1000 rpms causing the computer to shoot a code and trigger the engine light.

Dec 17, 2013 | 2002 Mercury Sable

3 Answers

No brakespedal goes to the floor and will not stop


Do you have rusted out brake tubing or a blown
brake flex hose
Obviously & rarely do brakes go to the floor
Can't see the issue from the internet

Aug 07, 2013 | Ford Freestar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Break hose leak


replace the bad hose then bleed all 4wheels. Replace fluid lost in this process.
if you live in a high rust area hold the line in place while turning the hose to break loose. once loose soak line nut with brake fluid.
no other oil can be used or it might contaminate the fluid and cause failure of braking system.

Mar 15, 2013 | 1996 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

How do I get 1990 Suzuki Escudo out of 4wd


I'm not sure if you are suffering 'wind-up'.Does your car seem to suffer a huge loss of power? If so, then try jacking up one wheel off the road.
Does the wheel spin around once it leaves the road surface? If so, then you just suffered 'wind-up'. That vehicle is not meant to stay in 4 wheel drive if not on mud or slippery surfaces. This will eventually cause catastrophic failure of the transmission, usually resulting in a smashed transfer box chain.
Once any 'wind-up' has been dealt with having released it from jacking one wheel off the ground, then select 2wd and road-test the vehicle. It should now be fine.


If the vehicle still won't deselect from 4wd, then you will need to check the transfer box for fault.
The transfer box and gearbox oil should regularly be checked for any signs of oil cross-contamination. There is an oil seal between these two boxes, and which keeps their respective oil from leaking through to each other's boxes. If your transfer box oil is reddish in colour, or shows a large excess of oil when removing the oil top up bung, then you likely have an oil seal issue.


Typical issues on that particular model are:


Transfer box chain failure.
Transfer box [internal] oil seal leakage.


Other things to keep an eye on with that particular model are:
Power steering pump oil seal.
Front wheel bearings. (increased failure when fitting wide profile tyres).
Steering track rods and track rod ends.(increased failure rate when fitting wide profile tyres)




BE AWARE!
Easy entry/break-in method: Remove right, rear light cluster with philips screwdriver. Using bobby pin or short wire, randomly short circuit visible wires within connector block until central locking automatically opens door locks.

Oct 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2002 Mercury sable misfiring only on cylinder 3


Can't believe some the lame answers here. Anyone having this issue check the PCV hose where it attaches too the air intake, the rubber breaks down and develops a leak. But these engines also have wiring issues that causes crankshaft sensor to fail at startup or under 1000 rpms causing the computer to shoot a code and trigger the engine light. I have these issue cause the above problem.

Jul 07, 2012 | 2002 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Why does my van make a hissing noise after I shut it off? There are no fluids leaking and the temperature guage appears to be normal.


Hi Morganna, sounds like a vacuum leak. Check all of your thin vacuum lines, especially the ones that run close to the engine. Rubber hoses tend to break down over time. They usually fail right where they attach to something. You may be able to find the leak with some water/dish detergent. Just brush or spray it on and see if you get bubbles. If there is enough slack, cut the line back to good hose and re-connect. If not, get some new vacuum tubing of the same size, and get a hose barb splice, and add in the new tubing.
some vacuum lines are really important, operating sensors etc, so fix this sooner than later.

Jun 27, 2012 | 2006 Toyota Sienna

2 Answers

Brakes go to floor


If the brake master cylinder is full with approved DOT 3 brake fluid and the vacuum line that attaches to the brake booster is in place and not leaking or disconnected at either end, check for leaking fluid on all 4 tires, if you find no fluid at the tires indicating a caliper is leaking then the problem is the master cylinder being bad.

Aug 08, 2011 | 1996 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

I know there is a leak on the exhaust before the cat converter. If big enough will it cause bad proformance and stalling with or from low RPMs?


It can cause engine performance to bad, but an exhaust leak should not cause it to be real bad or stalling. It would usually get louder as you accelerate. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak from the intake area, or one that is stopped up. The vacuum hoses get brittle from the engine heat and start unseen cracks. The rubber hoses are worse. Check each rubber hose going to the intake or off the intake. Look at the ends where it will connect to a connector. If you apply pressure to the hose and you see cracks anywhere on these hoses, it a good idea to replace any that have cracks. A lot of people overlook the maintenance part of the hoses, which should be changed 75,000 - 100,000 miles because these tend to break down. But the hoses will break down quicker just depending on the quality and what people use to clean engines. Also a bad plug or plug wire can cause this also, My dad owns a 2003 windstar and the van did the same thing, it was a bad plug wire, but we changed the plugs and wires since there harder to change. It's fine after the change.

May 10, 2010 | 2000 Ford Windstar

2 Answers

Poor breaks


When you open the breaking system you allow air to enter the break lines and that will cause squishy or weak breaks. You have too "bleed" the air out of the lines now. The way to do this is to have someone help you with this process. They will need to pump the break pedal until the break pedal is stiff and hold pressure on the pedal while you open the valve on the caliper or wheel cylinder(disc or drum) until you have a steady stream of fluid with no air. To ensure you get all the air out you need to start from the passenger rear tire,then driver rear, pass. front, driver front. Make sure you slip one end of a hose over the bleeder valve and the other end in a container so that you don't allow the break fluid to contaminate the new brakes,

Dec 03, 2008 | 1995 Chrysler New Yorker

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