Question about Buick Regal
While I was driving it cut off I try to started again it doesn't I have to wait 15 min to start again
Without knowing the year of your vehicle, I can only assume that a component, probably the ignition control module is getting too hot. This could be the module is bad or the resistance between the coils and the spark plugs is too high. Check the resistance in the ignition wires to see if they are within specs and check the spark plugs themselves.
A new module could solve your problem but, if the cause of its predecessor's failure is not fully addressed.it could happen again.
Posted on Mar 22, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had similar problem with 97 Plymouth Neon. It turn out that the Crank Shaft Position Sensor was failing, since I replaced it the car has been running smooth with no problems.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
If the security light is not coming on then you should check the cable going to the starter and make sure it is good and tight.If the light does come on then you need to get the code or codes read.Even if the light is not coming on I would still check for codes in the body control module.Let me know what you find.Good luck.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
Most frequent causes of that condition are either the fuel pump or the crank position sensor. Both really need to be tested but if when you turn the key to the on position right after it stalls, you cannot hear the pump running in the fuel tank, it's a good bet that is your problem. When the pump is beginning to fail, it gets hot and binds. As soon as it cools down it will work normally. Generally the interval between when it starts back up and stalls again will get shorter and shorter as it gets worse. Pretty much the same thing can happen to cps. That does require testing with a digital ohmeter to validate failure BUT it may read as good if it isn't in a stall condition.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
There are two, possibly three items you need to look at. Your fuel pump could be in the process of failing, in which case it will begin to bind. After it cools down it will resume operating till it again heats back up. In right after it turns off you cannot hear it hum when you turn the key on then likely that's the problem. The other two items also can do pretty much the same thing but are harder to diagnose.
First is your crankshaft position sensor and next is the cam sensor. Both are made using a wire coil that can also heat and expand, then short out, when cool they will test good. Either may or may not set a code but should be tested using a digital multi-meter and a manual such as haynes or chilton as a guide. You must test them while in failure or you may get misleading info.
Posted on Nov 22, 2010
Hi there, on the mercedes the crank sensor goes bad frequently. Its between the transmission and the engine on the drivers side about 11 o'clock position. You will need a internal torx 8 to remove the small screw that holds it, once removed see if it has oil on it, if it does change the sensor and get ready to do a engine rear main seal job because its going to happen again but not too soon. Please buy a Bosch crank sensor and no aftermarket, its going to save you future headaches.
Posted on Jul 01, 2013
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