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Sounds like it is low on the coolant which causes it to only work part of the time. You could probably take the car to a auto parts store and at least here in the midwest, they can help recharge your freon/R22 so you have a good working air conditioner. If that is properly charged and leak free, then your air conditioner compressor might be going bad, but then you would hear a lot of belt squealing when it wasn't working. Most likely though it is just low on the freon/R22.
By the way, air conditioners don't have spark plugs......LOL
Normal, the ac heat exchanger condenser need air moving across the fins to remove the heat. While
moving in town the condenser isn't remove the meat that is building up the it's
aluminum fins. Even though the vehicle uses an electric fan. The fan is used to
cool the engine temperature. If you Toyota is equip-ed with automatic
transmission. The electric fan will need to pull enough air to cool the engine
temperature, automatic transmission fluid, air conditioner condenser, and maybe
power steering condenser to cool the power steering fluid. Later model of
vehicles/trucks are using different refrigerants instead R134A in which you
The simples way to explain is the ac remove heat from inside your Toyota and this heat is removed by the refrigerants inside your ac in the car. To cool the refrigerant this coolant is removed to the heat exchanger condenser located in front of the engine radiator. So, while moving at 60mph there is enough air flow through the radiator, ac head condenser, and other aluminum heat exchangers. GB...stewbison
You need to turn off the button that say AC on it. You need to change the temperature and the fan adjustment. If you have the AC button turned on, the fans will blow cool air even though the heat is turned on.
Replace the blower motor resister,this is the speeds for the blower motor,it is located very near the blower motor,and is mounted on the blower box,and it actually goes inside the box,to keep it cool.The reason for it`s failure is the blower motor,even though the blower motor sounds,and runs good,it is drawing too many amps.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.
The fans are inportant but the regular raditior fan will do it and the road speed of the car will blow enough air though the codenser to make it cool if it's going to. Does the compressor turn on? if it does do the lines hooked to it get hot?( the small one) and the big one get cold? The condenser should get hot, Hot enough to burn you and the freon level may be wrong and or the compressor isn't pumping. ( brocken inside)
Do not let this car over heat a blown head gasket will ensue. Locate and replace the fan relay, if that doesn't fix the problem unplug fan and use jumper wires to ground the plug then feed power to the positive side of plug to check fan, if that doesn't work replace the coolant temperature sensor located somewhere near the intake manifold or thermostat housing area.
Typical problem of R-134 freon. It just doesn't perform well at idle, though hardware changes over the years have improved performance in later models.
However, be sure to cover the bases. Check freon charge with gauge set. Don't guess. Make sure the pressures are correct and that cooling fan is functional and nothing restricting air flow at condenser & radiator. High pressure from car wash wands can fold-over the cooling fins at radiator thus restricting air flow. I suspect all this is good but you should make certain to remove any doubt.
I had the same problem where the blower fan would only work on the "4" setting, not 1,2, or 3. The problem was the blower motor resistor block. I got the part from Oreily for about $30. To replace, start by removing the panel on the bottom of the passenger side dash. There was some kind of funky self tapping nut on a plastic post but it went on and off easy enough. Take the glove box out and locate the 2 wires coming off the blower motor. trace these back to the bundle going into the resistor block underneath. The wires (5 i think) go into a plug that plugs into the block. I unplugged the block after much frustration with the tiny plastic parts that latch the plug in (taking the block out at one point so I could see what I was dealing with but ended up putting it back in to get enough force on it to get it unplugged). Two screws hold the actual block in, unscrew these (i believe it was a 1/4 inch socket). If you bought the aftermarket part to save a buck like I did congratulations as you've just caused yourself more work. I used a file to expand the entryhole the block inserts into. Be careful not to file any plastic that may cause an air leak. the resistor block sits in the air duct to keep it cool while in use so don't leave it hang loose or you will have a potential fire hazard and an air leak reducing air flow while the fan is in use. Once you fit the new one in replace everything and you should be good to go. good luck, it took me 2 hours mostly trying to get the block unplugged. Still cheaper then the shop, which quoted me $300 for the repair.