Question about Lincoln Continental
This is my fault,for weeks I put off replacing the pos cable ,Easy I know, letting it get hot,melted several things,anywa I replaced the ICM & solenoid,the operates everything normally but wont start the engine I have to jump the Solenoid, Fuse links ?? Ingnition relay ?? Thanks Van
Check the small wires going to the starter solenoid. Hook up a voltmeter on the wires and see if you have power in the crank position. The ignition relay may be why power is not going through the keyswitch. The fusible link, probably not a problem if the engine runs.
Posted on Mar 25, 2014
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: engine wont crank
im looking at that circuit , on the start relay on your radiator support , red is always hot via fusible link , purple to solenoid as you say , orange/black wire should be hot in run or start mode , if it is not the fuse for that wire is PCM/ABS 10 amp located fuse block in driver door jam , it does go through the nuetral saftey switch , the yellow wire going to the PCM must ground that relay to activate start mode . last note there is a PCM/CRANK fuse in the driver door jam also , 10 amp , if all this is good i would like to hear more . 1 more note about the nuetral saftey switch is the pink wire going in and the orange/black wire coming out should have continuity in park and nuetral ....let us know thanks
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Sooooooo. The relay coil is drawing more current than the fuse can handle..... First guess is a short in the wire between the fuse and the relay coil. I would disconnect the wire that powers the solenoid relay coil. Then I would try (momentarily) clip leading a wire to the battery positive terminal - and touching the other end to the relay coil terminal connection. (Caution!! you are bypassing the factory wire and its associated fuse. If your temporary wire becomes hot - IMMEDIATELY remove it from the coil.) ------------------------However, I suspect that you will have the coil energized and that the engine will turn over....since the key is not in the ON position, the motor will not start.
If this works-then you know that the factory wire is touching the chassis somewhere... and you can either remove it and run another from the fuse to the coil terminal - or try to find the point of the short (good luck - and let me know)
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
Sounds like there's a grounded wire somewhere between the ignition switch and the solenoid. When you bypass the switch with the screwdriver you don't ground out the line, but with the switch the ground shorts the circuit, blows the fuse, and then won't start the engine.
Posted on Apr 18, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 2006 Toyota
DTC P2716 - Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Electrical (Shift Solenoid Valve SLT)
If you need to test this electrical components and wiring. Tell me if you need the TSB about this DTC.
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 11, 2014 | Mitsubishi Eclipse Cars & Trucks
Mar 27, 2014 | 1994 Chevrolet Camaro
Aug 08, 2012 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab
Jan 14, 2011 | 1996 BMW 318
Sep 21, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE
Mar 22, 2010 | 1998 Toyota T100
Dec 15, 2009 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire
Jun 07, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta
May 08, 2009 | 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport
Dec 02, 2008 | 1990 Ford Mustang
90 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: