Question about Mazda MAZDA3
Mazda dealers tell me that in the Passenger Junction box a stuck relay in close is causing my car to not start on occassion. They also recommend replacing the entire box... can anyone advise - can you i simply replace the relay??? where, other than the dealer can i get the box programmed?
I am not sure which relay they're talking about, but there is a fuel cut off relay in that area that is tripped if you hit a hard bump (supposed to trip only in accident ituation). Look at your owners manual as gthe cut off is located in different spots on different models, usually the trunk under the carper, or in passenger foot well. Will be marked.
Posted on Mar 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ok, here's the deal:
An accessory belt (commonly referred to as a serpentine belt or a V belt depending on application) is rubber and drives your accessories like power steering, air conditioning, etc. These are usually cheap and can be seen and replaced easily.
The TIMING BELT is also rubber, however it's job is much more critical. Basically, it times the bottom part of the engine with the top part of the engine. It is NOT seen without having to take a few things apart. It is NOT for the novice mechanic. However it is also usually not that expensive for the belt either. It's the intensive labor that's the cost factor.
Your engine is an "interference" engine. Meaning that if that timing belt breaks, then valves will contact pistons. That means ka-boom and major $$$.
You will not not a performance difference until the belt breaks. At that time it will be too late. Valves will be bent, pistons may crack, heads may be damaged.
The mileage recommendation on getting the timing belt changed is just that: a recommendation. They can last a lot longer, and sometimes not so long. As long as the belt doesn't break, you're good.
Seeing as how you've gotten twice the normal mileage out of that once belt, then I'd count your blessings and get it changed. Do I think you can get it done for less then $1500? Yes, without a doubt. Just price shop with other mechanics.
So the only question is, does your truck have any other major problems. If it's like most Toyota's, then probably not, which means it'd be worthwhile getting the timing belt done. The engine should last a long, long, time yet. Plus it's an excellent selling point if you want to ever sell that vehicle.
If you have other problems, then just wait til the belt breaks, because it will eventually, that's just how it is. At that point you can replace the valves and repair the heads and possibly pistons, or get a new or used engine to put in.
The cool thing is that while they go in and replace the timing belt, they can do a lot of other things very very cheaply, or at least, they SHOULD. For instance, they can replace that serpentine accessory belt since they have to take it off anyway. The water pump is also sitting right there.
So just be sure to ask them these options. It'll be a lot cheaper to get them all done at once, rather than waiting until they go bad and having to make a 2nd trip. For instance, get the timing belt done, and THEN finding out a month later your water pump is going bad and that they could have replaced it then...
In summary, if you like the vehicle, just get the timing belt done if it's due. And shop around and get it done reasonably. It'll be way cheaper than the head work and/or a new motor.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
The first code is for "driver seat track position sensor low". The module detects that the sensor input is less than or equal to 0.3 mA. The second code is referring to the first code. I have no idea what the third code is. Basically you have two different communication systems mixed. The 2001 uses the PCI bus system and the 2007 uses the CAN bus which is much faster. The first code is a CAN bus code and the second is a PCI code. As far as the airbag deploying in the event of a collision, I don't believe it will with an active code in the system. I hope this helps.
Posted on May 13, 2009
If it's on turning, it sounds like the power steering pump. Could also be your belts (power steering & and/or accessory) need changing
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Seen this happen before, A guy had bought a brand new jeep cherokee, the second morning it would not even crank or turn the motor, he had a faulty key switch, could be your problem as well...
Posted on Jan 12, 2011
Testimonial: "We aren't sure (yet) what the problem is, but the ignition key is one of the possible causes. When the vehicle is in the shop...it doesn't fail."
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Mar 10, 2015 | 2004 Mazda 3
Jan 31, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks
Jan 22, 2014 | 2004 Mazda 3
are actually VERY
MOST vehicles. (Although you would not guess that by the
number of PCM's that are sold and replaced every year). Too many people jump to
conclusions and blame anything they cannot explain on "Bad PCM". Just
read ANY online auto repair
blog and you will find THOUSANDS
of posts where the poster has already replaced the PCM, but the problem still
PCM replacement should only occur after ALL OTHER POSSIBILITIES have been THOROUGHLY checked with the correct equipment and the proper methods of testing.
OK, that's my "preaching" for the day......
I think it prudent to inform you that your DASH ILLUMINATION and PARK/MARKER lamps are not controlled by the PCM on your vehicle. So, I believe that would eliminate that possibility all-together. (Deep breath....sigh of relief ---- ; )
Those circuits DO go through the Passenger Junction Box (PJB) though.
Mazda has published a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) for your car which addresses MANY intermittent electrical failures as a result of faulty/loose electrical connections at the PJB. I think that would be the first place I would look for the solution.
TSB REFERENCE NUMBER: 09-025/05
May 15, 2012 | 2004 Mazda 3
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