Question about 2001 Dodge Dakota

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Oil pump replacment

How to replace the oil pump in a 2001 doge dakota

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Take the oil pan off, and it will be sitting there staring you in the face. Look at the replacement and see where the bolts are that hold the pump on. Remove them, take old pump out, put new one on. DO not overtighten the bolts. not a tough job, but very messy. Best to let the oil drain overnight after oil pan is removed. You will also need anew oil pan gasket

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

Testimonial: "e book tells me that i NEED TO TAKE THE TIMING COVER OFF ALSO This pump runs off the front of the crank?"

  • Ali Galam
    Ali Galam Mar 21, 2014

    What size engine do you have in your truck?



6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: How to replace power window motor on 2001 dakota

its not hard guys Take the door trim panel by taking off screws and mirror cover / pull out bottom of door and then sides pull up and outthen take off vapor barrier then look inside of door put tape on glass to hold it up take out bolts on the regulator and exchange it Please rate my response thank you very much

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 653 Answers

SOURCE: '97 Dodge Dakota 5.2l oil pressure problems

On the 318 (5.2 liter) V-8 that was in my 1973 Dodge Dart Sport, I started having oil pressure problems with valve ticking and clunking around the crankshaft around 173,000 miles. Prior to the problem, I had bought a couple cases of Pennzoil on sale. Needless to say, when I finally dropped the pan, the sludge had baked to a ceramic-like texture. I soaked the pick up screen in solvent to disolve the crud, replaced the oil pump, and replaced the main and rod bearings with undersized bearings (.001" undersized). The oil pressure went up to normal, the valve tick went away, and the clunking on the bottom end went away. The engine felt as tight like new, and should have lasted for another 150,000+ miles if the nitwit I sold it to hadn't wrapped it around a light pole. By the way, don't ever use no-name, Pennzoil or Quaker State motor oil. The minimal savings will cost you in the long run.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 69 Answers

SOURCE: How to Replace a Heater Core

Removal & Installation

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait 2 minutes for the driver-s/passenger-s air bag system capacitor to discharge before attempting to do any work around the steering column or instrument
  2. On diesel models, remove the passenger side battery and battery tray.
  3. Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedures:
    1. Remove the air bag control module (ACM) and bracket from the floor panel tunnel.
    2. Remove the trim from both cowl side inner panels.
    3. Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel opening cover.
    4. Remove the 2 hood latch release handle-to-instrument panel lower reinforcement screws and lower the handle to the floor.
    5. Disconnect the driver-s side air bag module wiring harness connector from the lower instrument panel reinforcement.
    6. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position and lock the steering wheel. Remove the steering column without disassembling it.
    7. From under the driver-s side of the instrument, disconnect or remove the following items:

      Parking brake release handle linkage rod from the parking brake mechanism located on the left cowl side inner panel. Instrument panel wiring harness connector from the parking brake switch located on the parking brake mechanism. Three wiring harness connectors (body wiring harness, headlight, dash) from the 3 junction block connector receptacles located closest to the dash panel. Head light/dash-to-instrument panel bulkhead wiring harness connector screw and disconnect the connector. Instrument panel-to-door wiring harness connector located directly below the bulkhead wiring harness connector. Infinity sound system wiring harness connector (if equipped), located at the outboard side of the instrument panel bulkhead connector. Stop light switch electrical connector. Vacuum harness connector located near the left side of the heater/air conditioning housing.
    8. Under the passenger-s side of the instrument panel, disconnect the radio antenna coaxial cable connector.
    9. Loosen both sides of the instrument panel cowl side roll-down bracket screws about 1 / 2 inch (13mm).
    10. Remove the 5 upper instrument panel-to-upper dash panel screws; remove the center screw last.
    11. Roll down the instrument panel and install a temporary hook in the center hole on top of the panel. Attach the other end to the center hole in the top of the dash panel. The opening should be approximately 18 inches (46cm).
    12. Disconnect the instrument panel-to-heater/air conditioning housing assembly wiring harness connectors.
    13. Using an assistant, remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.

  4. If equipped with air conditioning, perform the following procedure:
    1. Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
    2. Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the evaporator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
    3. Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the accumulator. Plug the openings to prevent contamination.
    4. Remove the accumulator.

  5. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
  6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes.
  7. Remove the PCM from the dash panel and move it aside. Do not disconnect the PCM harness connector.
  8. In the engine compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly-to-chassis nuts.
  9. In the passenger-s compartment, remove the heater/air conditioning housing-to-dash panel nuts.
  10. Pull the heater/air conditioning housing assembly rearward far enough to clear the studs and air conditioning drain tube holes.
  11. Remove the heater/air conditioning housing assembly from the vehicle.
  12. Remove the upper-to-lower heater/air conditioning housing screws and remove the upper housing.
  13. Remove the heater core from the lower housing.

    Fig. View of the heater/air conditioning housing assembly

    0900c15280225dc3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. View of the heater core

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: my 1995 dakota is overheating, replaced water pump, thermostat, fan. What to do????

if the fan is working properly, the only thing left to check is the radiator...

i may be clogged or damaged so the water can't travel in it properly...

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 1949 Answers

SOURCE: Need to replace oil pressure sending unit on 2001

one min location=

Posted on Nov 27, 2010

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I have 2001 doge dakota and left ignition on and

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Oct 07, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Dakota

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In what direction should the slot in the oil pump drive shaft lineup with when reinstalling it after cam replacement? engine is 5.9L from a 2002 Doge Dakota

the slot is irrellevant. when the number one cylider is at TDC the ignition rotor will point to number 1 spark plug wire terminal on the dist cap. as long as that lines up, you are good to go. if the dist wont seat down all the way, get a large straight screwdriver and turn the slot so the dist will seat all the way down. the slot is in the oil pump shaft as you know but the oil pump doesnt care about timing, it just pumps oil.

Sep 17, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab

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Leaking valve cover gaskets

The problem is over tightening.

If you over tighten your fastners you will sqeeze your gaskets too much and they WILL leak.

You can use black silicon sealant LIGHTLY but you don't really need it. If you have the V6...the torque on them nuts are only 80 in lbs each

Mar 29, 2009 | 1991 Dodge Dakota

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Oil leak

need a new rear seal. best left for a shop to repair as this is a hard and delicate job

Jan 31, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

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should be no more than a couple hours 100-170 dollars

May 26, 2008 | 2001 Dodge Dakota

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