Question about Nissan Pickup
Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Not charging usually battery problem or alternator. Try different battery.
Posted on Mar 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Find the relay making the clicking noise by setting your finger on top lightly, then check map on under side of cover for identification.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Your ECU is what acctivates your fuel pump realy. Put the key on the run possition and pull the ecu fuse for a few seconds and reinstall it ans it should accivate your realy for 5 seconds, Good luck.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
currently, I have the same type of problem with my98 legacy outback limited w automatic. The clicking on mine is definitely the fuel pump relay which is to the left of the pedals under the driver side dash panels. It is above the fuse box and I had to remove the fuse box to get my hand up there to feel what was clicking. My problem is more prevalent when the car is cold. Things that have been diagnosed and replaced are: fuel pump, fuel pump relay (heavy duty), ignition relay(heavy duty), ECU, TCU, alternator, ignition coil, and fuel filter. I've had my car in the shop a few times and my mechanic is stumped. He's had it hooked up to the computer and checked all of the circuits that can affect that relay. It's very hard to diagnose because it is so intermittent. The only thing that ever changed the problem was a used ignition control module(possibly a bad one) which made it click a lot more. I am going to see if Subaru can test the ignition control module because they, many times, do not give you any codes and they do very weird things to the way cars run. I hope one of us finds the answer to this problem.
Posted on Feb 20, 2011
With my pump failure, I read the exact same 6.5 v at the inertia switch in my trunk with the key in the "on" position and engine not running or cranking. When cranking, the voltage to the pump jumped to +12V and if the engine did run, the voltage should stay at +12V.
The Ford manual states +12v should be at the motor for some number of seconds in the key "on" position then drop off if the engine is not cranking or does not start. In my pump failure case, I never saw 12V at the inertia switch in just the key "on" position, only +6.5V as the +12v fuel relay under the hood never engaged and/or stayed latched on.
In my situation, I measured an open circuit at the pump motor winding and suspect the +6.5V I was reading came from the Powertrain Control Module. I am also guessing if my pump winding was not open, the +6v voltage would have been +12v for a number of seconds for fuel priming as the fuel pump relay is temporarily energized, then drop to zero (relay off) if the engine does not continue to crank or run.
With my pump motor winding open, the Power Control Module may not have been loaded properly to function (reading +6.5 floating volts instead) in the key "on" position and therefore never climbed to the full +12V. There obviously was no fuel pressure at my schrader valve on the fuel rail when cranking which indicated an open wiring circuit (splice, ground or connector) or open pump winding. The 12v I was reading when cranking at least indicated the fuel pump relay was working.
With my new pump installed, I listened for the pump running in just the key "on" position. I believe I barely heard it running after the repair as it was running very quietly which indicates the +12v was there which supports my theory.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
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