Question about Nissan Pickup

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Inhibitor relay Would a inhibitor relay or a fuel pump control unit have anything to do with my truth not charging heard it clicking the other day now is not charging I noticed when it would click the voltage would drop and battery lite would come on

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  • Nissan Master
  • 1,373 Answers

Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Not charging usually battery problem or alternator. Try different battery.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

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6ya6ya
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motor1258
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SOURCE: battery draining with ignition off, clicking sound

Find the relay making the clicking noise by setting your finger on top lightly, then check map on under side of cover for identification.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

Molson02536
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SOURCE: fuel pump problems 2003 s10 chev 4.3 v6

Your ECU is what acctivates your fuel pump realy. Put the key on the run possition and pull the ecu fuse for a few seconds and reinstall it ans it should accivate your realy for 5 seconds, Good luck.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

autodr
  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: no voltage at fuel pump, 95 accord ex

ck all fuses? why did you drop tank down? if high mileage, poss. ign. switch problem. somewhat common.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Outback SUW Auto 2.5 Accelerate, relay clicking sound

currently, I have the same type of problem with my98 legacy outback limited w automatic. The clicking on mine is definitely the fuel pump relay which is to the left of the pedals under the driver side dash panels. It is above the fuse box and I had to remove the fuse box to get my hand up there to feel what was clicking. My problem is more prevalent when the car is cold. Things that have been diagnosed and replaced are: fuel pump, fuel pump relay (heavy duty), ignition relay(heavy duty), ECU, TCU, alternator, ignition coil, and fuel filter. I've had my car in the shop a few times and my mechanic is stumped. He's had it hooked up to the computer and checked all of the circuits that can affect that relay. It's very hard to diagnose because it is so intermittent. The only thing that ever changed the problem was a used ignition control module(possibly a bad one) which made it click a lot more. I am going to see if Subaru can test the ignition control module because they, many times, do not give you any codes and they do very weird things to the way cars run. I hope one of us finds the answer to this problem.

Posted on Feb 20, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis. with KOEO, voltage to

With my pump failure, I read the exact same 6.5 v at the inertia switch in my trunk with the key in the "on" position and engine not running or cranking. When cranking, the voltage to the pump jumped to +12V and if the engine did run, the voltage should stay at +12V.

The Ford manual states +12v should be at the motor for some number of seconds in the key "on" position then drop off if the engine is not cranking or does not start. In my pump failure case, I never saw 12V at the inertia switch in just the key "on" position, only +6.5V as the +12v fuel relay under the hood never engaged and/or stayed latched on.

In my situation, I measured an open circuit at the pump motor winding and suspect the +6.5V I was reading came from the Powertrain Control Module. I am also guessing if my pump winding was not open, the +6v voltage would have been +12v for a number of seconds for fuel priming as the fuel pump relay is temporarily energized, then drop to zero (relay off) if the engine does not continue to crank or run.

With my pump motor winding open, the Power Control Module may not have been loaded properly to function (reading +6.5 floating volts instead) in the key "on" position and therefore never climbed to the full +12V. There obviously was no fuel pressure at my schrader valve on the fuel rail when cranking which indicated an open wiring circuit (splice, ground or connector) or open pump winding. The 12v I was reading when cranking at least indicated the fuel pump relay was working.

With my new pump installed, I listened for the pump running in just the key "on" position. I believe I barely heard it running after the repair as it was running very quietly which indicates the +12v was there which supports my theory.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011

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3 Answers

Catera 2000 Catera wont start, acts like no gas, fuel pump not heard,


https://s10.postimg.org/3ufs1il6x/fuel_pump.jpg

Click on the link for fuel pump wiring, note the fuses. Use a gage and check fuel pressure.
Key on engine off, can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds? If not, have to check wiring circuits and fuses--grounds, possibly a fuel pump issue?
Engine cranking do you have spark at the plugs, I'm just trying to decide if more than one issue? Any applicable trouble codes?

Jun 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fuse for the alarm system


Here is the full list of fuses for you! and for the car.

Fuses on E-box, on left in Engine Compartment

Fuse 1 - Not assigned

Fuse 2 - 10/15A - Engine control unit

Fuse 3 - 5A - Radiator fan control unit

Fuse 4 - 5/10/15A - Lambda probe heater,
Lambda probe 1 heater after
catalytic converter

Fuse 5 - 10A, 20A - Lambda probe heater1,
Lambda probe 1 heater after
catalytic converter,
Fuel system diagnostic pump,
Charge pressure control solenoid
valve,
Exhaust gas recirculation cooler
change-over valve,
Crankcase breather heater element,
Vacuum pump for brakes

Fuse 6 - 5A, 10A,15A - Fuel system diagnostic pump,
Throttle valve module,
Activated charcoal filter system
solenoid valve 1,
Continued coolant circulation pump,
Auxiliary air heater heating element

Fuse 7 - 20A, 5A - Ignition transformer,
Fuel pressure regulating valve,
Fuel metering valve

Fuse 8 - 10A - Throttle valve module,
Activated charcoal filter system
solenoid valve 1

Fuse 9 - 5A - Automatic glow period control unit,
Electric fuel pump 2 relay,
Fuel pump relay

Fuse 10 - 5A - Speedometer sender,
Brake light switch

Fuse 11 - Not assigned

Fuse 12 - 5A - Coolant circulation pump

Fuse 13 - 5A - Water pump

Fuse 14 - 5A - Engine control unit

Fuse 15 - 30A - Voltage stabiliser

Fuse 16 - 30A - ABS control unit

Fuse 17 - 30A - Automatic gearbox control unit

Fuse 18 - 20A - Automatic gearbox control unit

Fuse 19 - 1A - Onboard supply control unit

Fuse 20 - 30A - Onboard supply control unit (AW0)
Automatic intermittent wash and
wipe relay (AW1)

Fuse 21 - 50A - Secondary air pump motor

Fuse 22 - Not assigned

Fuse 23 - 40A - ABS control unit

Fuse 24 - 50A - Trailer detector control unit

Fuse 25 - 50A - Terminal 15 voltage supply relay 2

Fuse 26 - 60A - Automatic glow period control unit

Fuse 27 - 60A - Radiator fan

Fuse 28 - 40A - Onboard supply control unit (AW1)

Fuse 29 - 40A - Onboard supply control unit (AW1)

Fuse 30 - 50A - Terminal 75 voltage supply relay 1

Fuse 31 - 30A - Amplifier

Fuse 32 - Not assigned

**************************************************

Fuse assignment - Interior Fuse Panel

Fuse 1 - Not used

Fuse 2 - 5A - Electronic steering column lock control module

Fuse 3 - 10A - Instrument cluster control module

Fuse 4 - Not used

Fuse 5 - Not used

Fuse 6 - 10A - Vehicle electrical system control module,
Interior ceiling lights,
Tail lights

Fuse 7 - 5A - Fog lamp relay,
Instrument panel and switch illumination dimmer switch,
License plate lamps,
Vehicle electrical system control module

Fuse 8 - 7.5A - Windshield and headlamp washer pump switch,
Windshield washer pump

Fuse 9 - 5A - Airbag control module

Fuse 10 - 10A - Right steering column switch

Fuse 11 - Not used

Fuse 12 - Not used

Fuse 13 - 5A - Automatic dimming interior rearview mirror,
Light recognition sensor,
Parking aid control module,
Air quality sensor,
High pressure sensor,
Climatronic control unit,
Tire pressure monitoring button,
Back-up lamp switch,
Left washer nozzle heater,
Right washer nozzle heater,
28-pin connector

Fuse 14 4- 10A - Left steering column switch,
ABS control module,
Light switch,
Airbag spiral spring/return spring with slip ring,
Fuel pump control module,
Data bus on board diagnostic interface

Fuse 15 - 10A - 16-pin connector (diagnostic connector),
Instrument panel and switch illumination dimmer switch,
Headlamp range control adjuster,
Auxiliary heater operation relay,
Mass airflow sensor,
Positive crankcase ventilation heating element,
Left front headlamp,
Left headlamp beam adjustment motor,
Right front headlamp,
Right headlamp beam adjustment motor,

Fuse 16 - 10A - Engine control module

Fuse 17 - Not used

Fuse 18 - 15A - Left front headlamp

Fuse 19 - 15A - Right front headlamp

Fuse 20 - 10A - Automatic transmission control module,
Selector lever sensor system control module,
Tiptronic switch,
Climatronic control unit,
Ignition/starter switch

Fuse 21 - Not used

Fuse 22 - 10A - Ignition/starter switch,
Converter box,
Alarm horn,
Interior monitoring sensor,
Alarm horn relay,
Dual tone horn relay

Fuse 23 - 10A - Vehicle electrical system control module,
16-pin connector (diagnostic connector),
Light switch,
Rain/light recognition sensor,
Compass magnetic field sensor,

Fuse 24 - 10A - Vehicle electrical system control module,
Access/start authorization control module

Fuse 25 - 15A - Automatic transmission control module,
Selector lever sensor system control module,
Multifunction transmission range switch

Fuse 26 - 15A - Brake system vacuum pump

Fuse 27 - Not used

Fuse 28 - 40A - Auxiliary heater operation relay

Fuse 29 - 1A - Vehicle electrical system control module,

Fuse 30 - 20A - Cigarette lighter,
12 V socket,
12 V socket 2,
Blocking diode

Fuse 31 - 30A - Light switch

Fuse 32 - 20A - Light switch

Fuse 33 - 40A - Heater/heat output switch,
Fresh air blower relay,
A/C control module,
Fresh air blower switch

Fuse 34 - 15A - Left front headlamp,
Left front headlamp,
Instrument cluster control module

Fuse 35 - 10A - Steering column electronics control module,
Instrument cluster control module,
Signal horn activation,
Data bus on board diagnostic interface

Fuse 36 - 25A - Vehicle electrical system control module

Fuse 37 - 15A - Left front headlamp DRL

Fuse 38 - 15A - Right front headlamp DRL

Fuse 39 - 15A - Low beam relay

Fuse 40 - 15A - Towing recognition control module

Fuse 41 - 15A - Towing recognition control module

Fuse 42 - 20A - Towing recognition control module

Fuse 43 - 30A - Front passenger door control module

Fuse 44 - A25 - Rear window defogger relay,
Vehicle electrical system control module

Fuse 45 - 30A - Driver door control module,
Front passenger door control module

Fuse 46 - 30A - Left rear door control module,
Right rear door control module

Fuse 47 - 15A - Fuel pump control module,
Fuel pump relay,
Fuel primer relay

Fuse 48 - 20A - Vehicle electrical system control module,
Vehicle electrical system control module,
Vehicle electrical system control module,

Fuse 49 - 20A - Climatronic control unit,
A/C control module

Fuse 50 - 30A - Front seat heating control module

Fuse 51 - 30A - Power sunroof control module

Fuse 52 - 20A - Dual tone horn relay

Fuse 53 - 15A - Front seat heating control module

Fuse 54 - 15A - Fog lamp relay

Fuse 55 - 20A - Light switch,
Left steering column switch

Fuse 56 - Not used

Fuse 57 - 15A - Radio,
Radio/navigation display unit control module

Fuse 58 - 1A, 30A - Telephone transceiver
DC/AC converter with socket, 12V-230V

Fuse 59 - 30A - Amplifier

Fuse 60 - 30A - Auxiliary heater control module


Hope this helps

--N

May 31, 2014 | 2010 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Car is out of gas and wont turn over


check fuel filter, fuel pump relay, or fuel pump. IF the car don't even crank over, (starter don't work) then:


READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

Dec 15, 2013 | 1999 Plymouth Neon

1 Answer

2000 buick regal. Losing fuel pump voltage


http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams ! Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Then click the search button , then click blue link .The 7th diagram down shows two fuel pump relays , This I have not seen before ! One is speed cont. relay an the other is just fuel pump relay ? The speed control one has a resistor in the electrical circuit . That is way your droping voltage .
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis (VIN K)
Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis (VIN 1)

The PCM alters fuel pump speed by energizing the fuel pump speed control relay. Under normal conditions, the fuel pump speed control relay is energized. The applied voltage to the fuel pump is controlled by a resistor assembly. When higher fuel volume is required due to increased engine load, MAP sensor value over 90 kPa the PCM de-energizes the fuel pump speed control relay circuit. The increased voltage to the in-tank fuel pump allows a higher volume of fuel to be delivered to the fuel rail. The PCM also compensates for low system voltage by energizing the fuel pump speed control relay.

Have it check for codes !
Did DTC P0230 or DTC 1260 set?
--
Go to DTC P0230 Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit or DTC P1260 Fuel Pump Speed Relay Control Circuit
Go to Step 3

May 05, 2017 | Buick Regal Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I've got a 1988 volvo 740 gl with automatic transmisson. My problem is that it wont start. It is not the starter motor because the electricity doesnt come that far. It stops even before it gets to the...


It's either a faulty starter inhibitor switch or a faulty starter solenoid. The fact that the fuel pump does not power up points strongly to the inhibitor switch. Try another one, they're not expensive.

Jul 01, 2011 | 1988 Volvo 740

2 Answers

I have a 1991 Pontiac Firebird and I parked it in the driveway Sunday night and went to start it the next morning to leave and it didn't do anything. The battery is not dead, my volt gauge was reading a...


You either have a bad starter or ignigtion switch. When you turn the key on does everything else come on? I would check the starter first if you have power to everything.

Mar 16, 2011 | 1991 Pontiac Firebird

2 Answers

1984 pickup, not getting fuel to carb. was told to replace fuel pump, replaced, still no fuel, from what i can see this has an auto choke replay, inhibitor relay, and a fuel pump control unit, so does this...


IF THE FUEL PUMP YOU REPLACED IS ON THE ENGINE BLOCK IT IS A MECHANICAL PUMP AND THERE IS NO RELAY OR PUMP IN THE TANK. NEED MORE INFO TO CORRECTLY HELP

Feb 05, 2011 | 1984 Nissan Pickup

3 Answers

I have no power to the fuel pump on my 1996 TBird. Where is the fuse for the fuel pump located.


Do this test first. With the drivers door opened in a nice quite area turn the ignition key to the ON position without starting the engine. You should hear the fuel pump operating for 5 seconds which is priming fuel to the engine. If not heard the engines oil pressure sensor is at fault. The third wire from this sensor links to the fuel pump to prime. When the engine reaches normal operation oil pressure range the computer shuts off that circuit and turns on the fuel pump relay for the pump to run. That relay stays on until you shut the engine off

Jun 19, 2010 | 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX

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