Question about 1968 Ford 12 M

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I have a rod with 4 wheel drum brakes..when i apply quick pressure it feels like the brakes are not squeezing..I have to take my foor off the pedal and brake again..then I have good pressure...any ide

The vehicle is a 1930 ford Model A street rod.....has 4 wheel drum brakes..I had to fill in your boxes for make and year..which are incorrect,,the car is a street rod..Ford Model A 1930

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  • Ford Master
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1930 model a has mechanical brakes they never stopped that great but the application arms should not push pass 1.5 inches and less than 90 degrees . each brake shoe has its own adjustment very technical to adjust suggest a good book and understanding on brakes before attempting repairs.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

Bleed the brakes again

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fknstart
  • 404 Answers

SOURCE: removal of rear brake drum 2002 ford escape

make sure handbrake is off take wheel off hit the drum with a mallet not steel,as it will brake,hit on outter diametter face of drum, try and rotate as you twist off

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 141 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 ford thunderbird standard brake system has hard pedal

You are correct in the assumption that the power assist is the problem. The brake booster has either failed completely or has a broken vacuum line. Please check that the booster lines are intact and if so, get yourself a new booster.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: 98' Ford Windstar has a spongy brake

Have you had anyone try to clean and adjust the rear brakes? You will need a shop to scan the van for ABS codes first to cure the ABS light.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Brake/ABS brake issue on 2001 Sport Trac?

Check for air in the system, Also check your brake calipers to make sure that the Pistons are not freezing or just locked up

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: Brake pedal goes down to floor. Putting brake fluid doesn't solve problem. Vehicle must coast to a complete stop.

First look for obvious leaks under the vehicle, especially the inside area of each wheel... If you see fluid, you have either a blown cylinder seal or a bad line (check the rubber hoses to the front and back brakes too) Repair the offending part and bleed the air out of the system... (remember to clean pads or shoes if they have fluid on them)... If you see no hint of leakage anywhere, then suspect the master cylinder... if you remove the master cylinder, check and make sure that it didn't leak fluid into the brake booster diaphragm (Brake fluid will destroy the booster)... as in any repair when you open the system (lose fluid), you will need to bleed out the air to restore function... hope this helps...;-)

Posted on May 04, 2009

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I have a 23 t bucket and i cant get a brake pedal.when i bought it had very little brake so i replaced rear shoes and cylinders,front pads and calipers,all new lines and the master cylinder


Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Jun 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

What is the part called that the brake lines hook into?


Hi,
Under the hood is the Master Cylinder. It contains brake fluid, which when you depress the brake pedal, acts as hydraulic fluid to flow through high pressure tubing called brake lines, from the Master Cylinder to the Wheel Cylinder (drum brakes) or Brake Piston Caliper (disc brakes). As you depress the pedal further hydraulic pressure expands the wheel cylinder which presses outward, 2 brake shoes inside a metal "drum" (drum brakes) or clamp the brake piston calipers together squeezing a disc-like rotor (disc brakes) thus stopping the vehicle.

Sep 26, 2013 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

2009 Dodge Caliber - The ABS & Brake Light came on as well as the feeling/sensation of the brake being applied very hard for a split second.


take it to an accredited brake specialist shop
I suspect that the brake booster is becoming defective and the small application to the pedal causes excessive booster reaction
the abs section only maintains applied brake fluid pressure as set by the position of the pedal
that is to maintain the pressure as the stopping and start movement of a skidding wheel opens and closes a valve to that wheel /s
if you are on ice that sudden hard braking will cause the wheels to lock and immediately the abs cuts in to allow the wheels to turn and then to allow brake action to be reapplied
if the abs is working under brakes you will get a pulsating feeling under your foot as the fluid pressure is alternation between full on and released by the abs valves

Apr 01, 2017 | 2009 Dodge Caliber 2.0

1 Answer

WHEN COMING TO A STOP I GET A PULSING ON THE FRONT BRAKE WITH A NOISE AND A SOFTENING OF THE BRAKE. IT DOESN'T HAPPEN AT HIGH SPEED BRAKING.(SENSOR?) THIS IS A 2000 JIMMY 4+4 187,000 kms BOTH FRONT...


The pulsing is usually caused by a warped rotor. Rotors warp from quick stops and rapid braking techniques. It could also possibly be a weakening Master cylinder or a leaky diaphragm in the brake boost, but this last would be accompanied by a hissing sound when you hit the brakes. To check the rotors, block the rear wheels and raise the front until the wheels are off the ground. Spin the wheels individually by hand slowly - they should roll smoothly. If they do , have a helper apply very light pressure to the brake pedal with the engine running and again spin the wheel. With the wheel spinning, have the helper apply increasingly more pressure to the brake pedal until it stops the wheel from turning. Now have them back off the pedal slightly so you can spin the wheel again and spin, looking for uneven rolling. Check both front wheels to show which rotor is warped. If either is warped, you'll need to have the rotors resurfaced ( turned) and replace the pads both sides.
If they turn smoothly through all of the tests, apply solid pressure to the brake pedal until you can't push it any farther and hold that pressure. Watch the pedal for sinking. If it sinks, then you either have air in the system or a bad Master cylinder. Bleed the brakes first before you replace the master and do the pressure test again. If you don't find anything at this point, start the engine and do the brake pressure test again. If the pedal sinks, then you may have a vacuum leak in the booster and will need to do a vacuum test on the booster to make sure, since that job is usually hard to do and may be costly, depending on the style of booster you have.
Hope this helps!!

Dec 10, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

ABS Light is on. rear drum brakes have no pressure to them....wheel cylinders are not seized., but will not activate when pressure is applied to the brake pedal, even with drums and shoes off


If you recently replaced the wheel cylinders or if you ran it out of brake fluid, you need to adjust the brakes out and then fill and bleed out the air on the wheel cylinders

Aug 27, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina Apv

2 Answers

STEARING SEAMS TO BE STIFFER AND SHAKING COMING THROUGH THE STEARING WHEEL AND WHEN YOU APLAY THE BREAKS YOU CAN FEEL BUMPING THROUGH THE BREAK PEDAL AND ALSO FLIKEREING ON THE SPEEDO


you may have bad CV joints. Each halfshaft has an inner and outer cv joint. One halfshaft going to each front wheel. Check to see if the rubber boots are split and all the grease leaked out.

May 21, 2010 | 1994 Ford Escort

3 Answers

Yhe brakes feel tight. what can that be?


You mean they act like they are applied? jack it up and try to turn each wheel. If both fr wheels are hard to turn, might be calipers. Was any brake work done recently

Mar 19, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

LOW BRAKE PEDAL ON 4 WHEEL DISK BRAKES


Check the pads/rotors to see if they need to be replaced.
Check the brake fluid level. If low it could mean the pads/rotors need to be replaced. If replacing also replace the brake fluid.
Two years probably means you need a brake job.

Otherwise you may have air in the brake lines which you can bleed off.

May 07, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

Adjusting Padking Brake with 4 wheel disc brakes.


Hope this helps. This is out of the factory manual. Let me know if this works for you.
PARKING BRAKE NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or disconnected for service. When adjustment is necessary, perform adjustment only as described in the following procedure. This is necessary to avoid faulty park brake operation.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  2. Fully back off cable tensioner adjusting nut at equalizer to create slack in cables.
  3. Remove rear wheel/tire assemblies. Remove brake calipers and rotors.
  4. Verify park brakes are in good condition and operating properly.
  5. Verify park brake cables operate freely and are not binding, or seized.
  6. Check park brake shoe adjustment.
  7. Reinstall rotors and make sure rotors turn freely.
  8. Reinstall brake calipers. Tighten guide pin bolts to 41 n·m (30 ft.lbs.)
  9. Reinstall wheel/tire assemblies after brake shoe adjustment is complete.
  10. Lower vehicle enough for access to park brake foot pedal. Fully apply park brakes
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment is complete.
  1. Raise vehicle again.
  2. Mark tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from edge of tensioner bracket Adjustment Mark On Cable Tensioner Rod
  3. Tighten adjusting nut at equalizer until mark on tensioner rod moves into alignment with tensioner bracket
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner adjusting nut for any reason after completing adjustment.
  1. Lower vehicle until rear wheels are 15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off shop floor.
  2. Release park brake foot pedal and verify that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Verify pedal returns to fully released position.
  3. Lower the vehicle

Mar 09, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler 300M

1 Answer

Handbrake problem


hi fro uk when you reassembled brake shoes? did you notice the tubular bar just below b/cylinder? it fits between the two shoes and has a toothed wheel on the treaded side(l/h) this is the auto adjuster ie as tooth wheel is rotated it extends the treaded side thus adjusting shoes to drum o/k? this is normally done auto by the small lever below but when fitting new shoes you must adjust this rod with tooth wheel and keep trying drum fitting when you can fit drum /just? fit and press brake to centralise shoes to drum then adjust again if req'd so that drum fits and rotates withh shoes not binding ?? do both sides THENyou willdrums fitted you will feel b/pedal is improved ie less travel on braking ? SO FIRST THING YOU HAVE TO DO IS SLACKEN OFF H/BRAKE CABLE ADJUSTMENT /SLACK ? then proceed with the above instruction afterwards if you do as above then you pull h/brake up one notch ? then adust slack from cable to light tension release h/brake and ensure wheels rotate freely when you apply h/brake it should hold on approx four//five notch ? hope this helps

Feb 04, 2009 | Hyundai Motor 1998 Accent

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