Question about 2002 Toyota Tacoma

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VALVETRAIN NOISE TROUBLE CODE 300 301

MY TRUCK MISSES TERRIBLY ,A KNOCK COMES FROM VALVES QND I GET TROUBLE CODE 300, 301

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You have a random misfire and a misfire on cylinder 1 is what those codes are telling you. Need to figure out why and there are too many possibilities to list here. Start by checking your wires, coil and plugs.

Posted on Mar 21, 2014

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My 84 toyota truck engine 22r has a valve knock. when i start my truck i hear a loud knock coming from the head.do i need to adjust the valves?


check the valve adjust and see if one valve is lower/higher than the rest. The valves are hydraulically adjusted and if the knock is really loud watch for a slight miss at rpm's. The only thing that will give a loud noise is a loose valve seat insert. You may pick it up with a compression test.

Feb 26, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Engine knock when first starting


Hi there:
Firs t suggest to check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Nov 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Lost compression and now there is a loud knocking noise in my 454 vortec engine


Bent valves would be number one cause. Check the timing. If you lost time, your valves are tapping the pistons causing the knock. When the valves tap the pistons they bend and don't close all the way, so the cylinders cant make compression.

Oct 17, 2012 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced the knock sensor, what else could be causing acceleration problems on hills?


The knock sensor code does not always mean the sensor is faulty.
The sensor picks up noise and vibration in the engine such as a spark knock would generate, and the computer slows down the spark timing to fix it. If the noise or vibration continues, the code is set.
Could be a noisy valve, or a problem with the crankshaft or other component.

Aug 13, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Truck made loud noise while driving on freeway.once turned off ,would not start.we replaced starter and silonoid and a fuse that blew.truck started and ran fine until we took it on the freeway again 3 days...


Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Jun 05, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 96 chevy tahoe 5.7 vortec and it had a small knock in it so we put in a new crankshaft,main bearings,rod bearings,timing chain,timing cover and all seals and gaskets now the truck misses on number...


Oh man that's a tough one. It almost sounds like a bad head, however there is an electronic spark control mounted to the firewall, that could possibly be doing it. If it is fuel injected, check your injectors. Something else to check would be the fuel pressure regulator. I'll have to think more on it, because you have replaced so much. Have you checked for trouble codes? The throttle position sensor can cause some of your symptoms. Hope this helps, but I think you might have a faulty esc control (electronic spark control)

Jun 09, 2011 | 1997 GMC Suburban

1 Answer

I have eng knock noise and clicking noise like its at rh valve cover at times unplug #1 coil and noise changes but don't stop


Sounds like you have some valvetrain problems, broke valve spring, bad rocker arm, or bad camshaft lobe.

Apr 24, 2010 | 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Have a 98 Jeep Cherokee,engine light is on ,has a knock when it accellerates, have an y ideas??? (sounds like engine knock).


have truck scanned for trouble code most auto stores such as auto zone/ advanced auto do it for free code gives u start point as to knock which is where code is coming from most knock noise is lower engine problems rod knock-wrist pin -main bearing going

Nov 26, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Noise from the engine(a kind of rattling, maybe valves) at 1500-2000rpm. In this range the noise is heard clearly. The authorized service says is due to a small luck of lubrication of the valves, and...


Yes that is ture. Many cars get a vibration on the valves during certain rpm's. The only thing you can really do is either get a bottle of oil stabalizer witch is a really thick goo that you add to oil to make it a little thicker. This does help tremendously with the vibration. You other choice is to use synthetic oil instead of regular.

May 11, 2009 | 2007 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback

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